Only about 20-30 minutes drive from Kelaa Mgouna are the hotels that line the upper part of the Dades Gorges Road on the way to Dades Gorge. But a stunning drive so you might take longer stopping for photos! In the summer its cooler up there than down in the flat and hotter areas of Mgouna - in winter colder! - but so scenic - culturally and visually attractive - and with so much more space a much nicer option than trying to stay in Mgouna town.
The Dages Gorges Road turns off the Dades Valley road from Kelaa Mgouna just before the incline to the town of Boumalne. The hotel I recommend, as its run by friends of my Moroccan connections and where Ive stayed a few times, is the Kasbah la Vallee hotel.
Ive also stayed across the road at Auberge Tissadrine which is also a nice option - a smaller hotel, recently renovated with more a traditional Moroccan decor than the large scale la Vallee, and also family run.
This is assuming youre getting about with your own wheels - if you relying on public transport you will probably have to find a place to stay in Kelaa Mgouna.
Great views from the roof, all bedrooms facing the road and river have balconies and there are several rooms with large balconies and multi directional views. The two brothers who run and manage this hotel are lovely - George who is well travelled internationally speaks perfect English and is multilingual and his brother who is quieter but just as charming and welcoming.
We have always had good meals here - an adequate range of breakfast stuffs to start the day and a good menu list to choose from for lunch or evening meals.
We stay there each time we go to Morocco. The owner is a friend and a mountain guide. We usually stay in the Kasbah for a few days when we are in Morocco in the summer, or after a trek. This is a family place, with no thrills, in the Moroccan way. Rooms are charming, I think there might be 10-12 guests, and there is a wonderful Moroccan lounge overlooking the Valley of Roses. There is a fireplace too, nice for winter escapes (Marrakech is a bit far away in the winter, but there are international flights in Ouarzazate which is one hour drive on a good road).
This Kasbah is Aziz Boullouz's headquarters. Aziz is a trained mountain guide who knows Morocco inside and out. This is his hometown, Kelaa M'Gouna, where his parents still run their farm. I remember we had a room in the farm for our first trek before the kasbah opened. He renovated this cliffside house and made it a kasbah for guests. All rooms are decorated in the berber way, with carpets sewn by mountain nomads. After a trek with Aziz, or coming from Ouarzazate on your way across the Atlas, just relax there, drink the mint tea on the terrace overseeing the ocre Valley. A magical moment. For dinner Aziz's sister cooks the best couscous or tajines. Soooo Moroccan.
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