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12 derb Sefli Ras Jnas Medina, Fes, 30000, Morocco
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of people enjoy staying here
3 Opinions
View on the roof
Fes
Cedar Plantations
Young Artistan At Work
The tiny alleys and cave like nature of the medina make great acoustic for the wild polyrhythmic clapping games of Morocco. Keep your ears open...try and follow the pattern and you will belong to Fes in your self-hypnotized state...
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Photos by Jamal Morelli, uploaded at Studio Shamharush
I took the bus from Fes to Marrakesh via Azrou and Beni Mellal. The whole journey was 10 hours and bus fare was Dh130. As I stayed in Medina, I took the bus from the main bus station which is near Fes el-Bali. It departs at 8am.
It is a long journey and the bus stops in several cities along the way and passengers come and go. During March 2006, it was cold in the bus when travelling in the highlands of Atlas mountains. So be sure to carry a blanket or jacket in your day bag. The scenry is superb. A good experience, but just long distance.
Alternatively you can take the train for 7.5 hours.
Just inside the Medina near the Bab Bou Jeloud entrance you'll be greeted by multiple touts offering you menus and enticing you into the variety of restaurants that line the square. While some of these might be good for a bit of people watching, we were attracted to this one as it has what appeared to be one of the better terraces with views over the Medina rooftops. Price wise, the restaurants around here all seem rather similar, though this was on the cheaper side.
Funky Arabic pop playing in the background, occasionally switched off to allow for the call to prayer to take precedence, wailing from the depths of the Medina. While this is predominantly a tourist place, there were also some locals eating too. The place was an accidental find though it turned out that it's listed in LP too. Make your way straight to the top of the building for the best views.
They had the standard Moroccan fare of omelette or brochettes (meat on skewers). While they have a three course menu for 70 dh, I just had a chicken brochette for 40 dh; soft drinks come to 5 dh each. They also bring a stack of bread and olives which is usual in Morocco. On leaving, pay downstairs on your way out. They made quite sure that we were aware that a tip would be expected, which is the one thing I wasn't too impressed by.
Inside the Fez Souk you’ll see mule loaded with goods in the busy narrow streets (I felt sorry for the mule, it look sad and overworked), the mule have the right way. The smell of different spices will overwhelm your senses, merchants selling carpets, some selling dates, sweets, breads. In the hustle and bustle of the market stand many stalls offering you to buy leather goods, ceramics, pottery, copper pots and pan, shirts, kaftans and stalls selling old guns. The streets are also workshops, cafes and restaurants. Amongst the stalls in the busy narrow streets you’ll find an Islamic and Jewish school. Medina is complex you can easily get lost in the labyrinth; if you don’t speak Arabic it’s better to get a professional guide, we had guide from Trafalgar tourist. If you want to explore alone get a map from the tourist office, but apparently you can also followed a tourist circuits. While you are visiting the old city be alert for pickpockets.
This must be a local thing, but for a mere dollar you can get your butt beaten alive in a "massage". They took me into a dark, what seemed to be a cave, sprayed me down with extremely hot water, then a man proceded to beat the living crap out me, stretching me in every direction humanly and non-humanly possible. All of this was done on a slick cement like floor. Then, after the fun was over, they dumped a huge bucket of cold water on me!
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Q: How much time? "We are being picked up by a tour company in Tangier and taken to Fez, where we will spend the night. Can you tell me how long it..."
A: "It is 303km from Tangier to Fes, It should take no longer than 4 hours, Fes is worth at least 2 days, You will find plenty to occupy your time."
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