Despite the crowds, there is something special about the top of the Fragrant Hill: it seems like you are at the edge of civilisation as you look west over the bare hills receding into the distance. Behind is Beijing, in front....just bushes, trees and hills. No houses or signs of civilisation. It is almost reassuring to have all these fresh-faced, smiling fellow visitors for company, even if many are inclined to shout out "Helloooo" to you as if they are the first person to think of saying it. (But why, after shouting "Helloooo", does the person always dissolve into fits of giggles and nervous laughter? Is it because they have suddenly realised how utterly inane it is?)


