The little touches
One of the neat things about Lijiang is, of course, the fact that it's unlike most other cities in China. Part of that difference is phony, namely Wangu Tower (Looking at the Past Pavillion) and all the shopping in town, and part is real- the street lamps, walls and other remains of the old city. At the very least, there has been an effort made to keep all the development in the old town in keeping with the look and feel of the old town. This preservation is somewhat unique in China, by my experience. Regardless, it's a nice touch. It adds to the feel of the place. Of course, China is growing around it, but in town it's hard to see that.
There are numerous bus stations in Lijiang which becomes confusing. I was in Lijiang in the summer of 2003 and used 3 different bus stations (perhaps there were as much as 4). This seems like so many bus stations for such a small town, but it is partly caused by construction of some sort.
So take notice of your arrival station, and the station at which you depart because they may be different.
The luxury bus with service to Dali and Kunming has its own station, which requires a short taxi ride from the tourist area of the old and new towns.
Dong Dajie is the main pedistrain street that runs north-south through the Old Town. This area was largely reconstructed following an earthquake in 1996. The street is lined with tourist shops, a few banks, restaurants and cafes etc and is extremely busy with dozens of walking Chinese tour groups.
Dong Ba Kingdom
Dong Ba culture is probably one of the most primitive but still used culture nowadays. I think there are a couple of shrines dedicated to honor this and for tourists to get to know about it better. There's this older one called Dong Ba Shen Yuan which is supposed to be better. However, our guide took us to Dong Ba Wang Guo (Kingdom) and it's relatively new. It's kinda 'ok' with the cement carvings. It looked and felt too new to have that nostalgic and historic feel though. Entrance fee is 30 rmb.
These three wells are located near the main market at the southern end of the old town, near the Mu Mansion. One well is for drinking water, one for washing vegetables and the other for washing clothes.