Indonesia in aug/sept 2001 (Java, Bali, Lombok, Fl
These infos were collected from 08-12-01 to 09-07-01.
(at that time : 1 USD ~= 8,700 IDR (Indonesian Rupiah), 1 FRF ~= 1,200 IDR).
Addresses are in following editions of the Lonely Planet guidebooks: 2000 for "Indonesia" and 2001 of "Bali & Lombok", otherwise they are mentioned.
- ATM may be found quite easily in Java and Bali, at a lesser extent in Lombok, but take your precaution for Flores as they are almost non-existent and anyway change is not as interesting as in Java or Bali.
- all hotels mentioned are with cold water only, unless hot water stated.
- hotel: Lotus, just beside one of the gate of the main temple: 35,000 IDR including breakfast, complimentary coffee & tea, fan, mandi. Not so bad.
- main temple entry fee: 45,000 IDR or 5 USD for foreigners. If you take an official guide it's 30,000 IDR more!
- Candi Pawon: donation, given 1,000. Not very intersting, going there walking is OK.
- Candi Mendut: donation, 1,000 again. OK but a long walk, around 5 KM.
- Andong (horse cart) for 3 km: 1,000 (but probably less expensive)
- lunch in a warung inside the temple: 6,000 for a nasi goreng ayam (fried rice with chicken), and 12,000 for a large Bintang (bargained, wa 15,000)
- dinner warung near the bus station: 3,000 for mie goreng, and 10,000 for a large Bintang (local beer)
- bottle of water 1.5 l: 4,000 IDR
- 4 postcards inside the temple: 5,000 IDR
- bus to Jogjakarta: 4,000 probably still higher than normal, but bargained from 10,000. From an Indonesian friend should be 2,000 or 3,000.
- hotel: Metro Guest House: 60,000, incl. breakfast, fan, pool, shower, internet cafe (1,000/10 min, cheaper than in Sosrowijayan). Nice, but quite far from the Malioboro.
- becak from bus station to Metro: 3,000 (too much!)
- becak from bus Kraton to Taman Sari: 2,000 (too much!)
- becak from bus Taman Sari to Malioboro: 4,000 (OK!)
- Kraton entry fee: 7,500, + 500 for photos. Not worth it, or maybe with a guide (?).
- Taman Sari entry fee: 2,000. I took a guide and gave him 4,000 (caution thay don't present them as guide, and they usually have a batik shop where to stop!)
- bought a batik ;-): 60,000 for a medium one.
- Dinner at Anna's rest. (Gang II): Gudeng + tea = 10,000. OK. Bintang: 8,000 (best deal in town?)
- Stamp for postcard to Europe: 3,500
- bus from Jogja (yellow Pemuda from bus station): 2,000, travel lasts 1 hour
- main temple entry fee: 45,000 or 5 USD.
- Plaosan entry fee: donation, given 2,000.
- bus back to Jogja (minibus): 2,000, but stops north to Malioboro (Simanjuntak), then take bus num. 4 (800 IDR) to Malioboro.
- lunch at Anna's: gado-gado=6,500, cold water 1.5 l=3,000.
- bus to Malioboro: num. 2 on Sisigarmangaraja.
- back to Metro from Malioboro at night: take bus num. 14 (maybe 15 as well?) near ost office (A. Yani): 800 IDR. Don't worry (as me ;-) if you think it's going too far: it's doing a loop and then come back to Sisigarmangaraja.
- Dinner at Tante Lies: nasi goreng for 6,000, and Large Bintang for 8,500.
- BE _VERY VERY_ CAUTIOUS if you decide to take public bus as I did, and always keep an eye on your stuffs, there are a lot of organized bands of pickpockets in these busses (for your big backpack ask to put it in the bagage hold under the bus, maybe it will become dirty but at least it should be safe, and _NEVER_ put it behind the last row of seats. I'm serious: I was robbed a lot of stuffs between Surabaya and Probo, because I was not as careful as I should have been. Also, when taking such busses try to be at least 2, and be mistrustfull of people nice to you...
- contrary to what said in tourist office I did not find the supposed direct AC bus to Probolinggo at bus station. Very difficult to get information: everybody has his very own version!
- regular (ie. non AC) bus to Surabaya: 16,500, 8 hours, crazy driver.
- Sura. bus terminal entry fee: 200 IDR.
- Bus from S. to Probo: 5,000
- Cold drink bought in the bus: 1,500
- in Probo, yellow angkot from bus station to downtown: 500, plus 500 with big backpack.
- hotel: Bromo Permai: 22,500 with very bad breakfast, very bad place: bed broken, mandi dirty, fan.
* KAWAH IJEN volcano:
- Kawah Ijen tour: 220,000 incl. accomodation for 1 night and breakfast, and lift to the ferry to Bali. Quite expensive for what it is!
- the incl. night was at the coffee plantation in Blawan on the volcano slope, if you go there take food with you, no actual restaurant in the nearby village, but by asking you'll be able to eat in on the house, I did it: 2,500 for noodles, rice and meat balls
- K.I. is really great, I highly recommend it, but contrary to me (I became suddenly a bit shy after my misadventure in the bus!) try to do it by yourself, no guide is needed to climb to the crater rim: the path is clearly marked, and you won't be alone (though probably nothing compared to Bromo). The only challenge is transport to the start of the track. But I know people who did it, so that's possible.
- CAUTION: if you take such a tour, be aware that it includes the driver but not a guide, and one could board with you just being very friendly and telling you it is dangerous to climb the volcano (that's not completely wrong when going down even if not so much, but I don't see in what he could be of help)
- K.I. national park admission: 2,000
- given 3,000 to a sulphur worker to get a small piece of sulphur (natural, not carved)
- climbing to the crater rim + going down and back (very cool rythm): 4 hrs
- ferry to Bali: 2,000, lasts 30 min.
* KALIBUKBUK (ie. part of LOVINA):
- mini-bus from Gilimanuk (Ferry) to Kalibukbuk: 10,000 (but should have been around 8,000)
- hotel: Taman Lilly's Family, caution this is _not_ the more expensive Taman Lily, but a second family run small place. 60,000 incl. taxes, good breakfast, fan, shower, brand new room, very clean, friendly manager (she). Only problem: walls are virtual: you actually live with your neighbours, and even (if you're as lucky as I was) with the fighting cocks (actually outside but ;-) singing almost in your ears from 5 AM...
- hotel: WISATA JAYA, on main road: 35,000 incl. breakfast, taxes, basic, not very clean, but quite calm.
- large mineral water 1.5 l: 2,000
- dinner: Bali Apik (2nd right in Jl. Bina Ria): happy hour on beer from 5-8 PM: 9,000, Balinese Fish filet and fried potatoes: 12,500, really good (I had several dinners there, and was always worth the value).
- dinner BU warung (main road): tuna in palm leaves (8,500), for rice or noodle you have to pay 2,000 more. Good but not very copious.
- Internet: 300 / min.
- laundry: 1 pair of pants, 3 t-shirts: 5,000.
- for those willing to see Kuta (awful by the way), tourist bus (Perama shuttle) is 40,000 one way, start at 10:30 AM via Ubud (lasts 4h30), and at 12:30 PM direct (3h30)
- for the adventurous ones wanting to go there by public transport: dark blue one to Banyuasri term. (1,000), then _red_ one (and _not green_ as said in the LP) to Sukasada term. (2,000), and red again to Denpasar (Ubung term., 7,000), then light blue to Tegal term. (2,000), then dark blue to Kuta (2,000). Total: 15,000 one way, and lasts 4hrs!
* SANGSIT/KUBUTEMBAHAN temples:
- bemo (dark blue) to Singaraja: you'll been told 2,000 by everybody in Lovina, but actual fare is 1,000 (at least was at that time). It will drop you at Banyuasri terminal, then catch a beige one to Penarukan terminal (1,000), and finally a yellow one to Sangsit (payed 2,000, but should be 1,000)
- CAUTION: beige bemo driver will probably propose you to drive you all the way to the temples for 10,000.
- Pura Beiji donation: 2,000. Interesting
- Pura Dalem (from P.B exit: go right then cross rice fields, very close), free, not so bad.
- yellow bemo to Kubutembahan: 1,000
- Pura Maduwe Karang, donation: 2,000, very nice.
- back to Penarukan term. with yellow bemo: 1,500, then again beige and dark blue to go back to Kalib. If at Banyuasri they don't want to start after quite long, simulate you're leaving, and they'll change their mind ;-)
- Surya rest (on main road): Happy hour 6-9 PM, 9,000 the large Bintang.
- stamp for postcard to Europe: 6,000 (never understood why such a difference between Java and Bali). So if you want to save money, TRY TO SEND YOUR POSTCARDS FROM JAVA!
* BEDUGUL and GITIGIT waterfalls:
- to Bedugul by bemo follow indications given to go to Kuta (in Kalibukbuk section) and get down at the Danau Bratan lake (you'll probably have to pay as well 7,000 from Sukasada even if you stop far away from Denpasar, this is a tourist special! Should be more or less 4,000 (from what locals paid).
- Pura Ulun Danau Bratan entry fee: 3,500. Very disappointing, the large meru on all postcards reflecting in the lake is no longer here, and you can't enter the actual temple.
- lunch in a warung near the temple entry: 7,000 for a nasi goreng special (good) and 2,500 for a sprite.
- mini-bus from there to Gitgit multi-tier falls (ie. back to the Lovina): 3,000.
- stop at the sign-posted multi-tier falls (not the publicized ones, but more interesting IMHO), donation: 2,000.
- walking down to the "official" falls is quite long (at least 3 km by the road), bemo should be 500
- official falls entry fee: 3,000. Very long path between souvenir shops, falls not really interesting.
- waiting for a bemo to Lovina, one guy proposed me to drop me at my hotel for 6,000, good deal knowing I'll will not have to change and wait 2 times at Singaraja terminals.
- from Denpasar airport: take a dark blue bemo to Tegal terminal (2,000), then a yellow one to Kereneng (2,000), another yellow one to Batubulan (2,000, but should be less IMO), and then a blue (?) to Ubud. Take care, if you arrive by late afternoon at Batubulan, you could be overcharged, I arrived by 5pm and paid 10,000 instead of the regular 3,000, but they argued that my big backpack counts as another passenger!
Actually if I forget the overcharge for the pack, I did not experience tourist price as other Indonesian passengers paid 5,000 each.
They'll also try to tell you there is no longer regular bemos to Ubud, and they will try to force you to charter one for 40,000! Be smiling, patient (other passengers will eventually show up), and don't worry, that's the game! ;-) Or arrive before 5pm.
- hotel: Gandra's House: 30,000, with fan, shower, breakfast, taxes. Good deal. BUt don't rely on them for tickets for dance shows, they tell they'll buy them for you, but actually don't. But there was no problem of money, and they refund you without discussion.
- laundry at Gandra's: 5,000 for 2 t-shirts and 1 pair of trousers.
- lunch at Bendi's (close to the soccer playground): fried chicken and fried sweet potatoes and tea: 17,000 plus 10% tax.
- dinner at FairWay Cafe: actually a bar, internet cafe and restaurant. Highly recommended! Best deal in town for the large Bintang (9,000 during Happy hours) and Internet (200 per min), and very friendly and helpful staff. It is located exactly at the corner of Jl. Maruti and Jl. Dewi Sita (not so far from the Puskesmas (Health centre) on the LP map).
BTW I ate very good beef and rice for 11,500. Really a good deal for Ubud where prices are quite high.
If you buy any ticket at FairWay you're entitled of a 5% discount.
- Legong Dance show at Ubud Palace: 25,000. Show starts at 7:30pm, but arrive by 6:30pm if you want a well located seat. Lasts around 1 h 30, nice.
- Kecak and Fire Dance: 25,000, impressive, show up early for a good seat. Impressive, but you'll need a stem/leg (sorry dunno the word in English) for your camera as there is very little light.
- avocado juice at FairWay: 3,000, good, very refreshing. Dinner: chicken with coco: 9,500, tasty.
- Monkey Forest entrance fee: 3,000, refreshing place.
- Dinner Ayu's Kitchen: Pork Lawar (with coco, spices and rice): 12,000 and mango juice: 4,500, both very good.
- shuttle to Denpasar airport: don't remember the price, lasts around 1h15, different companies, and thus different times and prices, shop around.
* TAMPAKSIRING (GUNUNG KAWI):
- cremation ceremony in Tampaksiring, booked from tourist office in Ubud: 40,000 incl 2-way transportation, and actually only this as the ceremony itself has of course no fee. I really think a better deal is to get the info and take local transportation, once in the right village the most difficult will be to find the exact place where start the cremation, but ask and that's it! Anyway as I wanted to see Gunung Kawi at this same occasion, I missed the pre-paid minibus for the way back to Ubud, so I should have done it completely on my own!
- if you go to a cremation ceremony: take at least a sarong and a sash, even if you wear long trousers, or you'll have to buy some at the cremation place, as I did (25,000 for both bargaining). Everybody seem to be welcome at such an event, and photographs are accepted apparently without restriction.
- cremation ceremony is a must-see (you won't actually see the body itself), the one I attended was very impressive, above all by the kind of race between the temple and the place of the actual cremation. This is not afflecting and not as sad as one may think, or as a burial in the West (though it's neither an happy moment).
- Gunung Kawi entrance fee: 3,100. Interesting.
- to go back to Ubud with local transport: blue bemo to Bedulu: 2,000, then bemo to Ubud: 1,000.
- Goa Gajah cave entrance fee: 3,100. Nice.
- Yeh Pulu entrance fee: 3,000. Nice. I took a guide for 5,000 (after bargaining, started from 20,000!), but you actually don't need one, you'll probably have to make a donation, I gave 1,000.
- I didn't find the end of the path recommended by the LP to go from GG to YP, but I tried on my own without guide, I lost myself and ended up in the village from where I eventually found my way to YP.
- Lunch at the warung just beside the entrance of Yeh Pulu: 7,000 for french fries and 3,500 for a Sprite.
- Dinner at Gayatri Cafe (on Monkey F. Rd): chicken satay & rice = 15,000, arak = 4,500, tea = 1,800, and add 10% tax.
- Stamps: to USA: 7,500, to Peru or Poland: 6,000.
* ULU WATU:
- I tried to go to UW on my own, well I first took the Peram shuttle to Kuta (13,500, starts at 9:45am, lasts 1h30)
- but I did not find the bemos to UW as indicated in the LP (I did not search for long), anyway I doubt they go right away to the temple, and probably stop far away in the village.
- so I chartered a taxi for 50,000 both ways, and 1 h on site. Dunno if it's good deal or not.
- Ulu Watu entrance fee: 3,000, but you cannot enter in the actual temple, very disappointing, though nice cliff views.
- cold water in the temple: 3,000.
- Large Bintang at the 4 Roses in Kuta: 8,500.
- lunch outside the airport lobby: nasi goreng and tea for 11,500 (incl. 21 % tax!!)
- international airport tax: 75,000.
- Perama shuttle to Senggigi: 70,000 starts at 9:30, incl. ferry fee. Arrival in Senggigi at 7:30 PM. Recommendation: don't sit at the back of the bus, the road on Bali is very bad, and you'll have bad time.
- hotel: Elen: 40,000, shower, fan, good breakfast, clean. Good place.
- dinner: Espresso Cafe (in front of Asmara): nasi goreng ayam + large Bintang=25,000!! (caution 15% tax not included in displayed prices)
- ferry to Lombok lasts 4 hrs, and another Perama shuttle is waiting you in Lombok, to go to Seng.
- lunch warung Senang: 8,500 for nasi rawon (spicy beef soup with rice). Not really good. Anyway S. was the worst place for the food during my trip...
- Pura Batu Bolong at walking distance from S.: 2,000. Not interesting at all, even the view is disappointing.
- bought a flight ticket to get back later on from Maumere (Flores) to Denpasar: 955,000. If you pay with VISA, you'll have to add a 3% commission.
- bought a ticket for a 4-day/4-night boat trip from Lombok to Flores in one of the numerous travel agency: 400,000 (company Suarmanik Kencana), incl food and 5 large water bottles. But bargain even in high season, most of the other people on the boat paid around 320/350,000. See below for more on this trip.
- Sasak traditionnal tour (8 hrs tour): 75,000. traditional villages and Kute (Tanjung Aan beach) in the south of the island: that's not worth the price
- in Sasak trad. village you're supposed to give a donation (I gave 3,000)
* BOAT TRIP TO FLORES:
- you'll be picked up from Senggigi
- you'll be stopped to buy additional food or drinks, no need to lunch at that time as a lunch is included and will be given later.
- be aware that first day is mainly in the bus! You'll leave Labuhan Lombok only at 4 pm.
- Also: this is _not_ a cruise: this is very basic: just a hole as restrooms, no actual possibility to wash yourself, and very thin mattress for night. Moreover you'll board a 20 meters long boat with 6 crew members and 19 tourists, so 25 people, quite crowded! But that was fun I really enjoyed it.
- you should be stopped in several places for snorkelling: Pulau Satonda, Pulau Moyo, Gili Laba, maybe other places depending on the boat company.
- boat stop at Komodo Island, national park entry fee: 30,000 (incl. 5,000 for the guide and 5,000 for insurance ! ;-) Caution: at end of august this is the mating season and it is very hot, consequently you'll see very few dragons, and the ones you'll see won't be very impressive because they will be very very tired (dunno if because of the heat or the mating...;-) Anyway, looking such giant lizards so close remains a good experience.
- boat stop at Rinca Island, where you're supposed to see plenty of wild animals as said by LP (wild horses, buffaloes, ...), but by end of aug. that's too hot, and the visited part of island has no water, so no animals during the day! Same National Park as Komodo, but you'll have to pay again 5,000 for the guide.
* LABUHAN BAJO:
- a lot of hotel touts will wait for you on the pier!
- hotel Cordye (supposed to be brand new, but not really good!) : 25,000 a night
taxes and breakfast included.
- dinner at Dewata Ayu: excellent, I took baby shark (17,000) and a large Bintang (12,000), was really good.
- bus to Bajawa (booked directly through hotel, not sure it is good deal, but did not know where to find the info): 35,000, pick you up at your hotel. Departure at 6:30am, lasts 9h30. (lunch stop around 1:30pm). Great scenery all along.
- hotel Korina: 30,000 incl taxes, shower and breakfast, good deal (except breakfast)
- try the fresh fruit juice at Korina, eg. tamarilo juice was excellent and very refreshing for 5,000.
- 2 mangoes at the market: 3,000.
- caution everything is more expensive here: cigarettes, beer (not less than 15,000), and so on, dunno why, from the hotel manager it is due to the lack of transportation, and renting a car for the day would be 500,000!!!!???
- dinner at Kasih Bahagia (chinese rest in front of Korina, not recommended!): fried noodles = 7,500 and tea = 2,000, not good.
- dinner at Camelia= 17,000 incl. chicken satay and rice.
- tour to traditional villages with Alphonse, contacted directly at Korina hotel. PLEASE DON'T RELY ON THIS GUIDE, HE IS NOT FAIR, believe me, I am pretty easy going, and had no such problem in any of my past travels. If you make a deal with him, be prepared he'll not honour it fully. Anyway we paid 50,000 for a (supposed) whole day, including transportation. Seen: Bena, Luba, interesting. We were supposed to see an animist ceremony but we missed it (that's not the reason I don't recommend him, actually at 1pm he told us he had to go back home to have lunch and that the trip was over because we did not pay enough!). If you're told there will be such a ceremony, go at the village and wait as there is obviously no schedules!
- as indicated in the LP you can walk to Kampung Bolozi, but you'll have to ask for your way, the Kampung itself is not very appealing but the small trip is enjoyable.
- bus to Moni (booked directly through hotel): 30,000, pick you up at your hotel. Departure at 6:15am, lasts 6h30. FYI, during the trip, I bought 1 small pack of peanuts: 1,000, a 20cm bread: 1,000.
* MONI / KELIMUTU:
- hotel Watugana: 30,000 incl shower, taxes and breakfast (bad bed). Not really good (excpet excellent breakfast)
- more expensive is hotel Arwanti (spelling?): superb bungalows with 2 rooms, 3 beds and shower for 65,000, or 55,000 if you're single. I did not stay, but it looks very nice if you can't afford it.
- At Bintang Bar: fries=8,000 and tea=1,500
- At Rona rest.: bintang=13,500
- dinner: buffet at Hidaya: 15,000 all included (drinks= tea), incl. meat, fish and veggies. Worth it.
- truck to KELIMUTU: 15,000 in advance at your hotel, for 1 way and only for 13 km!! I am not very proud of it, but I saw it as a rip off, I didn't book, and showed up at 4:00am to take it. I thought I would be asked something to pay, but nothing. I don't recommend such cheating, but I consider asking 15,000 for 13 km on a wood bench at the back of a truck is really not fair.
KM park entry fee: 1,000,
The truck climb is 1 hr long, then you've to walk about 30 min, even if the 3 colour lakes are in the mist at your arrival: wait wait and wait! That's really worth it, we had to wait for 3 hrs, but what a memory, even if we missed the sunrise. Go down walking, it's a nice 2 hrs trip.
- bus to Maumere: 15,000, don't book at your hotel, just wait on the road in Moni, and you'll catch 1 of the numerous buses going there. The trip lasts 4 hrs.
- at the bus terminal be prepared to be assaulted by bemo drivers, be _very_ clear on where you want to go, or you'll end up anywhere, that happened to me, but they eventually were fair, and dropped me afterwards at the right place without asking for more money. Normal fare seems to be 1,000 from terminal to downtown.
- BTW I found M. the most friendly place I stayed during my trip, and I met several people willing to help without intention, that reminds me the wonderful burmese people!
- hotel Gardena: 20,000, incl. breakfast, good mattress (not so common), shower, fan, taxes. Good deal, recommended.
- dinner at Sarinah= fish with herbs & chilis & rice (17,000, good) and 1 large Bintang (11,000)
- CAUTION: the Merpati office moved! It is now located in a less convenient place, if you look at the LP map, it is out of it eastwards, actually this is the 2nd street at right hand after Jl. Kelimutu and Jl. Yos Surdarso merge.
- bemo from Gardena to Merpati office: 1,000.
- Internet at the post office: 10,000 / hr, even on sundays!
- I took a Merpati flight from Maumere back to Denpasar, it costed a bit less than 1,000,000 (departure at 12h50, lasts a bit more than 2hrs)
- taxi to airport: 10,000, but the small airport is quite close from the main road, so that should be OK to take a bemo (1,000) then to have a short walk, if you want to keep you rupiahs for anything else ;-)
- domestic airport departure tax: 6,000
FYI, and to have an idea of budget, while travelling as I did (and without never depriving me), I spent around 130,000 IDR per day all included (accomodation, meals, drinks, sites entry fees, transportation...), so approximately 15 USD a day.
If you need further information, don't hesitate to email me at email@example.com