'Katsuragino Sato', Fukuchi Hot Spring Town, Gifu: Great traditional hot spring inn with 5 star food
by Dinnersmurf
My companion and I have stayed at another inn at Fukuchi Onsen (hot spring town) in Gifu ken in Japan each autumn for the past decade or so - called 'Yumoto Choza'. We decided for our October 2006 trip to try its sister ryokan (inn), 'Katsuragino Sato', also hewn from recycled antique housing timber from the area - beautiful thick black ceiling beams and all. It turned out to be an excellent decision. The size of 'Katsuragino Sato' was modest enough not to feel lost in a sea of anonymous guests, and the baths are very well appointed. The architects and designers have faithfully recreated pre-Meiji interiors, but with modern comforts (central heating in winter and double glazed windows overlooking the abundant greenery). For those not familiar with the joys of onsen ryokan, everthing from the welcome to the multi-course dinner of local produce, the fluffy futons laid while one is devouring dinner down in the dining quarter, and the fabulous filling and healthy breakfast, this place delivers it all with style but no sense of smarminess that one can sometimes find at the larger, more visited onsen ryokan.
No garrish fluourescent lighting here - just warm tones, tasteful interior decorations, dark hardwood floor boards polished by a thousand soft footings passing over them, food to die for (local grilled fish, local marbled beef, soups with exquisite delicate herbal aromas, local vegetables), a sense of quiet and rejuvenation amongst the pines, cedars and rolling forest of Fukuchi Town. You'll also enjoy the little chill out/reading room near the foyer, as well as the ash pit in the centre of the communal tatami room near the foyer where you can relax on a bear skin after a bath. Accommodation here includes a complementary visit to another onsen within walking distance up the road (their guests also enjoy reciprocal visiting rights). We used our free visit after dinner dressed in our bath robes and wooden 'geta', clopping up the road to have a dip at the neighbour's. The staff at 'Katsuragino Sato' were extraordinarily well-trained, polite, helpful, and good-humoured. We're looking forward to heading back there this autumn. A tip: if your Japanese is a bit rusty, it may help to travel with a local, or at least get a Japanese friend to arrange the booking for you. If you're squeamish about communal bathing, there is a lockable 'family' bath at this onsen ryokan that includes both an indoor and outdoor bath. The communal baths also include both indoor and outdoor baths, the temperatures of which are Goldilocks (not too hot and not too cold). To get there, best to drive, but can be accessed by bus from Matsumoto or Takayama train stations.