Finding a bed in Khorog turned out to be not that easy as I thought. LP (of 2004) and the Hauser Map had listed ACTED (Agency for Technical Cooperation and Development) and MSDSP (Mountain Societies Development Support Programme) as organisations with base in Khorog, which would help travellers along the Pamir Highway. It was said that MSDSP has a guesthouse and that they also have a network throughout the Pamirs for homestays. I found out that ACTED is no longer based in Khorog, and MSDSP was short on people that day, as it was Saturday. Plus, well, yes, the language …. They didn’t understand English very well, but got the idea that I was looking for a place to sleep. They made some phone calls and suddenly Manija appeared, a beautiful young girl of around 13 or 14 and 10 minutes later (haha, maybe 20 minutes, as I must have tumbled quite slowly behind her) I had my bed. Manjia’s aunt rents 3 rooms in their house, in a kind of separate part, with bathroom, toilet, kitchen and living room and a very comfortable bed (= I prefer hard beds and this one was hard). Meals were offered as well, depending on what was wanted: breakfast, lunch and dinner. I had breakfast every morning and 2 times dinner, it came to 60 USD for 5 nights.
The rooms were very clean, bathroom and toilet as well, and the best was a little balcony upstairs, shaded with a marvellous view of the mountains north. This homestay is located on the southern banks of Gunt river, east of the bridge. In photo 3 it is hidden in the trees just next to the house directly at the river.
Manija and her aunt are very much caring for their guests, and whatever was needed, they brought. Breakfast was very good, choice of either tea or coffee. Manija got a bit less shy during my stay and we talked quite often about this and that, we enjoyed it both.
It was hard to leave, and I really really regret that my language abilities were not existing and that I could not talk with Manija’s aunt without her nieces’ help.
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