Laundry drying
by diocletianvs
The best way of drying the laundry is of course on fresh air, with just a few rays of sun that kills the bacteria, and few “refuls” of the wind that will dry the clothes. If you look above the houses in the Old Town, you’ll see a complex net of ropes hanging between the houses. They go from one window to the other, and have a small round mechanisms on their ends so you can push the clothes away to be dried and pull them again when the drying process is over.
It takes some trust in your neighbours since it’s not a big problem to take something from someone else’s rope. It is not unusual that your neighbour brings the clothes inside in case of sudden rain if she sees you’re away from home and your laundry is almost dry.
And it takes some unwritten arrangements for everything to function in this limited space, like the one we had in our small courtyard where Thursdays were reserved for undusting the carpets and similar, “dirtier” actions of house cleaning.
Another jewel
by TheWanderingCamel
The little walled cities of Croatia are strung out along the coast like precious gems. Trogir, just 25km west of Split, is one such jewel. Although not really off the beaten track, it's well outside Split and you need to make a little effort to get here. Sitting on its own small islet, just a short bridge-span from the mainland, it's a very popular day trip for holiday makers in the area and I'm sure there are times when it gets really crowded.
Don't let that put you off - it's a lovely place, a miniature mediaeval city of twisting alleys and narrow streets lined with old stone houses that all lead eventually to the central square, Trg Ivana Pavla, where a 15th century loggia and clock tower face the Katedrala Sveti Lovrijenac (the Cathedral of St Lawrence). The loggia once served as the city's courthouse, the judge's stone table is still in situ beneath a contemporary (1471) relief portraying Justice.
The cathedral is a masterpiece of mediaeval architecture - its graceful belltower, beautiful interior and, of particular note, its truly splendid carved portal where lions support Adam and Eve, and scenes from the Bible combine with scenes of everday life along with saints and all the apostles in a wonderful mix of pre-Romaesque imagery.
Umbrella-shaded cafes lining one side of the square are just the place for a short stop to rest the feet and enjoy a cooling beer. When lunch calls there are several attractive restaurants along the Riva, the seafront promenade to the south of the island. The impressive fortress at the end of the Riva was built by the Venetians in 1430.
Keen sightseers will want to check out the city's other churches and towers, the walls and the Land Gate but the real pleasure of Trogir for me lies in simply wandering through the streets - the small details of a pretty window here; a charming balcony there; worn carved-stone lintels; washing hanging out to dry; glimpses into courtyards and stairways leading where?
Buses run between Split ans Trogir throughout the day. As the city is truly tiny, without any hills, getting around on foot is easy. If you're drioving yourself, there is parking near the fortress.
Air, Bus, or Train?
by Pounder73
When in Zagreb, you have the 3 main options on getting to Split (or Dubronvik). When I was there, busses were more viable then trains, because of the recent war. It was the choice of a 11+ hour train/buss ride for about $12 or pay $90 for a 45 minute flight. It was cheaper for my friend who was 26 years (or younger). We opted for the flight. And it did not matter if we bought the ticket the day before our flight!
Late night can get fishy
by acemj about Konoba Marjan
Well, this was almost my last meal, since shortly after this photo was taken, I got my butt kicked (see warning and danger tips). Fortunately, however, I was able to live to see another fish staring back at me from my plate.
This was one of the few places that I could find that was open after 10pm in Split. Actually, they looked like they were getting ready to close when I came in, but I guess I looked really hungry because they welcomed me with a smile.
My waiter spoke good English and really bent over backwards to make it a great dining experience. I had a grilled whole white fish called "Komarca" and a mixed salad with a decent red wine. Everything was excellent.
Mestrovic Museum
by jamidwyer
We walked to the Mestrovic museum from downtown, which took maybe 45 minutes. It's like a walk on any city street, except the brilliant Adriatic's there on your left, of course.
The admission wasn't too expensive, less than $5 US for sure. There were few sculptures as striking as Grgor downtown, but there were plenty of lovely works, many with Christian themes. It was a nice, mellow change of pace from all-beach-all-the-time. I'd certainly recommend it if you tire of Diocletian's palace and shopping as we had.