Emerging from a Greek...
by Kamen_mali
Emerging from a Greek settlement founded between the 3rd and 4th centuries BC, the height of Split's history came in 295 BC when Roman emperor Diocletian ordered a residence to be built there for his retirement. It took ten years to build this magnificent palace and Diocletian lived there until his death in 313 BC. After that, many Roman rulers continued to use it as a retreat. In the 7th century, when the Roman colony of Salona was abandoned, many of its inhabitants sought sanctuary behind the palace's high walls and their descendants lived there until the present day.
The city enjoyed a good degree of autonomy between the 12th and 14th centuries before it was conquered by the Venetians in 1420. After the fall of Venetian rule in 1797, Split was ruled by the Austrians, and briefly by the French, before becoming part of the Yugoslavia that was formed in 1918. Much of its development occurred after 1920 when Zadar, Dalmatia's official capital, became an Italian enclave.
Veli Varoš
by TheWanderingCamel
Lying between the ancient Roman heart of Split and and the wooded slopes of the Marjan Peninsula just to the west of the city, the higgeldy-piggeldy streets of Veli Varoš are a maze of narrow lanes and old stone buildings. Traditionally a working class area, home to fishermen and the humbler working folk of the city, you won't find any remnants of the Emperor's palace here, nor any mediaeval mansions. What you will find is a wealth of folk architecture - small stone houses crammed side by side, lining every twisting alley and steep lane.
You'll also find the tiny 11th century chapel of St Mikula tucked away halfway up the hill in a tiny square. A Latin inscription over the door tells us: "With the help of the Christ this temple was built by Ivan and his wife Tiha, whom he married after the his first wife". The church is very rarely open unfortunately.
Whilst there are still lots of local people living in the houses of Veli Varoš, you'd need more than a fisherman's income to buy one these days. Once regarded as a poor quarter of the city, Veli Varoš' old houses have become extremely desirable and, when they come on the market, have prices to match. More and more of them are being turned into B&Bs and holiday apartments but the work is being done discreetly and there's still enough of the flavour of bygone days about the place for a wander through the quiet streets, away from the crowds around the Riva and the Peristile, to provide a glimpse into the city's earlier life.
For the sweet tooth :)
by yumyum about Bonbonniere Kras
This shop is located in the old town and it's full of goodies! All the chocolate and sweets lovers need to visit this shop as it carries Croatian produced products of the "Kras" brand. I didn't have time to look around properly as the shop was just closing so I had to make a rush purchase.
You will note that the Kras company also has chocolate toy eggs. If you know the ones from Kinderschokolade make sure that you taste these ones too. There is something here for every budget!
Transportation hub
by acemj
Down by the waterfront near the Old Town on Obala kneza Domagoja, you'll find not only a bus station and ferry terminal, but also the city's main train station. Unfortunately, trains don't head south toward Dubrovnik, but there are two trains daily to Zagreb that stop in both Knin and Karlovac.
Popular and atmospheric pizzeria
by BlueLlama about Galija
Galija featured in so many guides as Split's best pizzeria that, in a city full of pizzerias, I really had to go and find out for myself. Don't be put off by the guidebook recommendations - Galija is extremely popular with locals as well as visitors and was heaving with customers the night I went. Most other places were quiet.
It's a lot like an Italian pizzeria, with plenty of groups of friends and families, lots of noise and bustle and a big wood oven on prominent display. You can eat in the main dining area or by the bar on higher tables. The bar is certainly best for animated conversation. The tables and chairs look like they've been handmade by the staff - very chunky and rustic!
The menu features as many types of pizza as you'd find in an Italian pizza place, with several pages of different varieties. They have slightly thicker crusts than Italian pizzas, making them very filling. Very good pizzas, and, yes, the best I tried in Split. There are a number of pasta dishes too, but everyone around seemed to be going for the pizza.
One of the best things about Galija was the service - really friendly and helpful. That made it a bit of a change from pizzerias I've been to in Italy! So go, it's the best place I went to in Split and good value for money. The Diocletian pizza - if only for the name alone! Tuna, capers, olives, tomato. Very hearty.
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Sunset from the Promenade, Split
Rows of clothes and dry goods
St Anthony statue on the Cipriano palace
View of the old pagan temple-now Baptistry
