Both the civil and the religious heritage of the ancient Salona have been particularly important for the historical development of Split since the very beginning. The refugees from the conquered and devastated Salona fled from their native town to take shelter behind the mighty walls of the imperial Palace, where the organization of urban life started to develop since 7th century. They had worshipped their martyr saints at Salona, so they transferred their relics to the new site, upon their arrival. One of those martyrs, St. Domnio, was chosen to be the patron saint of the city of Split. The cult of the Virgin Mary, once worshipped at Salona, has been followed here, in a new place of residence, therefore, the local cathedral, previously Diocletian's Mausoleum, was consecrated to Virgin Mary very early, probably in 7th century.
In the early Middle Ages, the organization and the management of each city, and its autonomy were mainly based on religious heritage. The Church of Split, owing to the religious heritage of the Salona diocese and its rights, was promoted into an Archdiocese during the synods that took place in Split in 925 and 928 A.D. The Archbishop was John, a son of Tordakat (Tvrtko?), born, brought up and educated in Split, whose sarcophagus with carved inscription is still preserved.
The portal of St. Domnio's cathedral is decorated by the wooden doors, carved by Andrija Buvina in 1215. Inside the Cathedral there are the Romanesque pulpit, a valuable late Gothic sculpture by A.Aleši and an Early-Renaissance sculpture by George the Dalmatian, as well as many other valuable Baroque paintings. Close to the Cathedral there is the Cathedral Treasury where many relics, religious books, liturgical garments and other objects have been displayed.
The local soccer team has been around since 1911 and is one of the country's most successful clubs. They won Yugoslav championships many times over the years and became Croatian champions in '92, '94 and '95 and '01.
Not bad, eh? But perhaps they are even more famous for their loyal and rowdy fans, the torcida. The name was lifted from the Brazilian fans who the Hajduk supporters saw in film footage of the 1950 World Cup (if you're from Uruguay you know what happend in that one!). They loved the Brazilians' passion and decided to bring that same fervor to Croatia.
Tickets are available at the stadium (Poljud Stadium, north of the Old Town). See the Hajduk website for details.
Just 9 kilometres inland from Split, the mountain top fortress at Klis stands guard over the pass between Mosor and Kozjak mountains. Nowadays the fortress is a romantic ruin, presenting a dramatic profile high above the modern road but this is the route by which any force coming from the east had to come to reach the coastal region of Split. Such strategic importance has seen a castle ot fort has stood here throughout the ages. The present castle was built in the 16th C at the time of the Ottoman invasions of Europe. The Turks captured it then but were to lose it to the Venetians a hundred years later. It last saw military occupation when it was used by Italian and German forces in WW2.
The castle is open to visitors during the summer ((0900-2000, 10Kn) , though little remains beyond the massive walls and a small church. The views from the ramparts however are quite spectacular and well worth the drive up from Split.
To get to Klis, you need to take the road to Solin out of the cit, it's well signposted but,
rather confusingly, Klis village is actually in 3 parts - which we didn't realize as we headed off up the hill - all simply signposted "Klis" but all in different places around the hilltop. If you're heading for the castle you need to turn off the main road after you have passed through the first part of Klis.
Klis has another attraction - restaurants famed for their roasted lamb. If the lamb is your goal, stay on the main road, go through the tunnel and keep going up the hill a bit. You can't miss it - the restaurants are right by the roadside and the lambs are turning on their spits outside their entrances.
Jadrolinija - Croatias ferry company
Check www.jadrolinija.hr for ferry information.
In september you should be able to get good deal on car, locally as well as on the Internet, so i would recommend locally, then you can rent in the morning on the days where you actually need it.
Kremsnita with scenic view
Niksa recommended Bobis to us and as we hadn't had any Kremsnita on our trip yet we stopped in one of their cafes in the old town.
The waitress spoke next to no English and brought us the menu with a choice of oh-so-many cakes and a funny spelling mistake. We had made our choice already and ate lovely Kremsnita underneath the old walls of the Iron Gate. Gorgeous! Kremsnita, the Croatian traditional cake with custard and cream. Yummy!