Shop opening times on Sunday
On Sundays shops in many parts of France might be closed. I was in St Malo on Easter Sunday and it seemed many shops in the old city were open in the morning. In addition, some grocery stores, bakeries and other small shops outside the the old part of city were open at least on Sunday morning till noon (9am-12 noon).
There is at least one grocery store in the old city that advertises being open on Sunday mornings (Dimanche matinee).
Seafood and more
This restaurant was just across from our hotel and recommended by them. It did not disappoint us. It is larger than it looks from the street as there is a back room. It is well decorated and seems to specialize in sea food (it is about 100 yards from the bay). Not being great sea food lovers, we made other choices. It is pleasantly decorated and the staff was courteous and spoke English. I did try the fish soup which was quite delicious. We both had "filet mignon de porc au miel et a d'ail" - pork tenderloin with honey and garlic and found it tender and tasty. It was accompanied by sauted potatoes, tomato and mussels. The desserts were equally good - a rich apple fondant with carmel and butter sauce and a "glace" of ice cream on sponge cake with Grand Marnier. We left stuffed and satisfied. The only thing we did not like was the wine (in France, no less). Not wanting a whole bottle, I ordered the only split on the menu - a Cotes du Rhone. The waitress went next door to get it so I think it was a cheap one they seldom sell.
St. Vincent's Cathedral
We made our way throught the maze of streets to Saint Vincent's cathedral and as we approached we heard beautiful music. We entered the church and found a choir and muscians playing with a full audience. After our eyes became accustomed to the dark we noticed a couple of seats available in the second row . As we made quietly down the aisle my sandle caught in the stone floor and made a slapping sound. I cringed and took a seat. As the music came to a stop, the conductor turned and looked directly at me and made a comment in perfectly English, "can't you tell we are practicing for a concert, must you be so rude" - well, I won't forget St. Vincents Cathedral.... or the French conductor.
Saint Vincents cathedral was built over 7 centuries (the 11th to the 18th) but was only finally completed when the spire was fitted ? in 1987! . It is well known for it's old and new stained glass windows.
Walk on the beach
You absolutely have to take a stroll on the beaches (Plage du Môle, Plage du Bon Secours, Plage du Sillon) and admire the scenery around you : the endless sea, the ramparts, the boats leaving the harbour, etc.
Neither French, nor Breton but Corsair I am!
"Rich history and independence"
This motto says it all about the history of the city and the spirit of independence of its inhabitants.
You will be reminded of its rich history by visiting the Saint-Malo History Museum or when you'll pass by the statues of Robert Surcouf, Châteaubriand, Jacques Cartier among others.
The ramparts of the walled city of Saint-Malo (intra-muros) were built in the 14th century; they have been rebuilt after WWII abd it shows: the walls of the inner city have this "unfaded" grey which gives the impression of being fairly new or not too old if you prefer. But I'm sure that they are maintained, they must be because of the sea nearby.
We absolutely loved this city: the place is beautiful, charming, steeped in history and has a lot to offer : splendid beaches, great food, walks through the narrow streets, on the ramparts, boat tours in the bay, a day at the Mont-Saint-Michel 50 kms away and I could go on.
In a word: highly recommended.
Born in 1773, died in Saint-Malo in 1827. He had a legendary career as a privateer, capturing a total of 47 ships which earned him the nickname of "King of Privateers". Educated by the Jesuits he once escaped the school and stole a small ship to prove that he could sail. Later, he participated in slave trade in Africa. He came back to Saint-Malo at the outbreak of the war against Britain. He was made second officer of a ship which helped to repel the attackers. Surcouf was of the heroes of the battle. After that he started his "career" of pirateer which made him a legend in France but an enemy in England. He settled in Saint-Malo at the turn of the century and estalished himself as a businessman.
"Escaping it all"
Wouldn't it be great to just fly off sometimes and see the world like they do? ;-)