La Pagode: An 18th Century Folly
“To the Duke of Choiseul a diamond, the color of a blue stone, a black, pierced casket and a cup.”
— from the will of Jeanne-Antoinette, Marchioness de Pompadour, Versailles, 15.April.1764
THE KINDNESS OF FRIENDS Étienne François, Duke of Choiseul, had more to thank Madame de Pompadour for than a few bequeathed trinkets. The mistress of Louis XV took up the cause of the advancement of the duke’s political and military career after he bought potentially damaging letters written by the king.
Later, the duke would be laid low by the king’s next mistress, Madame du Barry. She acted as a messenger for the duke’s enemies, carrying criticisms and complaints to the king until Louis exiled the duke to his Loire Valley château, far from the glitter and glamor of the court at Versailles and Paris.
Just outside Amboise we found an unusual sight, la pagode de Chanteloup. This 144-foot tall pagoda is all that remains of the Duke of Choiseul’s Château de Chanteloup. It was begun in 1775 and completed in three years. La Pagoda is seven levels high, and the spiral staircase narrows as it reaches the top, making for an oh-so-tight squeeze to reach the uppermost observation deck.
As sweet as it is, la pagode is in desperate need of a good paint job and much TLC!
Some may think visiting this chinoiserie folly is a folly in itself. The 7 euros admission fee (more than $12 at the July 2008 exchange rate!) was a steep charge just to climb a tower and look at a lake and the surrounding fields. Please keep in mind, no one ever said that you travel to save money! It was really great fun and a welcome relief from the crowds of the more popular sights in the area. It is a workout to walk from the parking lot to the sight and then to climb la pagode; so some exercise can be had!
La pagode stands within its own 34.5 acre park. There is a café on the grounds for lunch, or bring your own picnic; there are picnic tables. Row boats can be rented for a spin around la grande pièce d’eau at the rate of
4 euros for half an hour and 6 euros for an hour. There are 18th century children’s games and toys on the grounds; there is no charge to play with these games.
Look at the web site, which is in French only, for seasonal opening times; the sight is not open year round.

An example of the tanks
Château du Clos-Lucé, Kitchen, 07/08
Château du Clos-Lucé, Le Parc, July 2008
Château du Clos-Lucé, Rear Garden, July 2008