Logis de France

Loches - Century old Fortified Town

by pedroswift

"Joan of Arc Slept Here"

If you have even a slight interest in the history of France, Loches is an essential stopping spot on your quest for enlightenment. It certainly got under my skin. Because of the homework I did before the visit, I had an inkling of what to expect and the actual physical layout of the town and the fortifications on the hill were better than I anticipated.
300 years of feudal France is covered by your visit to the Norman Keep at the southern end of the hill top. Used as a prison it bears witness to that and with a little imagination you can feel the cold cruelty of the place. Towards the northern end of the ridge is the 15th C Royal Loge reflecting the age during which French Royalty consolidated its power.
The main line of defense around the fortified hill is in good shape and there are vestiges of the outer walls (2) to give one an idea of the scale of the fortifications. It is worth a visit and I regret not spending more than one night in town.
But why did I go away angry?? Perhaps the "red rag"-er within me was spurred by the knowledge that THE French National Heroine, Jeanne D'arc was sold down the drain soon after leaving this secure bastion to venture into enemy territory to ensure that her wimpish wanna-be king (of the good French), Charles VII was crowned in Reims, where all Christian kings had been crowned since 496.
After his coronation in Reims in July 1429, Charles gave poor Jeanne the flick. He did nothing to repatriate her from the Burgundians (the evil French) when they captured her nor from the English who bought her from her captors. Why did I mutter obscenities about the devine Right of Kings as I examined the rooms in which Jeanne persuaded Charles to meet his destiny? Guess I'm just a sucker for a sad story!

"Richard the Lion-Hearted Slept Here"

The King of England (and boss of a few other places as well) Richard the First {1157-1199} spent some time here. Infamous for being the worst of kings but the greatest of bloodthirsty warriors, Richard actually took the hill at Loches by force despite the apparent security of the fortress after his brother John sold him down the drain while he was returning from the rape and pillage known as the Third Crusade. I wonder how many people Dicky boy sold down the drain? We know he tried it with his dad, Henry II of England but Henry prevailed & put down the revolt . Perhaps Richard was a chip off the old block genetically speaking. Did he get his military prowess from his father?
I just love Dick's opinion of himself: "that his rank acknowledged no superior but God".
After visiting Loches, it's almost mandatory to drop into the Abbey of Fontevraud to visit Richard's tomb.

"Agnès Sorel Slept Here"

Agnès Sorel was the mistress of Charles VII (the ingrate). She turned the head, heart and pocket of Charlie boy to the extent that he bankrupted the treasury to keep her in style.
So a visit to the best fortress in the Loire has it all: architectural delights spanning several centuries, Legends of Old, Knights of Bold, sex in the city -del, Family Feuds, Torture Chambers in Medieval Dungeon of Donjon.
Don't dismiss it ................ Don't miss it.