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Central Detail
The Third Oldest Tympanum (mid-12C)
Black Figures in the walled citythe France "Profound"
"The trip of a lifetime"
My trip there was a re-thought out plan after my original plan to travel to Paris with friends was put on hold because of events of 9-11. Then, my dad died, and by spring my friends and I were unable to make our free time correlate...so, with the encouragement of my travel agent, I decided to rethink my trip and travel alone! It was my first time abroad (at age 53)! I didn't have a clue!
Luckily, an young art student of mine attended the international school near Toulouse his mother kept a home near there, in Pibrac. Also, I had been corresponding with another animator/independent film producer by email whom I had never met, but wanted to visit. She lived in a little mountain village, La Gaude, outside of Nice.
An old roommate from college had just returned from a wonderful tour of Burgundy, Roccamadour, and Monte Carlo.
"On the Trail to Compostella"
So, after pouring over Vermont Bicycle Tour, Oxford Travel and a few other walking tour brochures and with the reassurance of my agent, who insisted that I'd never see it all by rail or coach...and that I should have a little car, I planned my trip.
Late April into early May, it was three weeks of bliss!
I flew to Paris, then a quick hopper flight to Toulouse. 4 days in lovely, gentle Pibrac with it's amazing church and the Basilique d' Pibrac (on the trail to Compostella), ancient cemetery, wonderful old buildings and a great wineseller downstreet from our brick townhouse which was converted from an old municipal building.
On day 3 We returned to the Toulouse airport to pick up my VW Golf, and off I went to the east to explore Auch and the amazing cathedral there, perched above the Canal du Midi. all along the drive to Auch, glimpses of the Pyrenees to the south and east and warm friendly farmlands punctuated by quaint old villages, all orange and dusty and dreamy.
"To Beaulieu"
Next I drove north along the A something, 6 maybe, to Beaulieu sur Dordogne, to my wonderful, wonderful digs at the 14th century Youth Hostel there, on the banks of the "D", through the heart of the old walled city. There I stayed for almost a week, and would have stayed forever. Bright, expansive, dry, clear sunny days, bursting with promise. After coffee at the hostel, I would pack for the day's adventure, stop at the local bakery for flan (my inexpensive breakfast) and a fresh loaf of French bread for lunch, and the deli (for wine, cheese, and a pate or fresh strawberries), and I was off to explore.
I will not burden you with the details of my daily adventures except to mention the points of interest, Carennac and it's lovely Abbey Church; the caves at Padirac; Roccamadour; Puybrun; Castelnaud (which was closed...so I picnicked in the parking lot and called it good); an early morning in St. Cere to see the farmers bringing calves to weigh-in at the town scales; Argentat; Gluges; Loubresac and the hiking route to the waterfall and cliffs of Autoire; the fluffy trees of Tauriac; the deserted Tour de Merle; le Vieux Borg; Creysse (a very sweet little town); Domme; Martel....and so many more magical places. I avoided Sarlat and all other large towns and enjoyed my self as if a time traveler, back to the middle ages
