 | Parc National des Pyrénées Occidentales Reviews | Tips 1 - 3 of 3 |  |
Whatever the comfort level, the hiker or trekker is usually happy to reach a shelter where he can either get or prepare himself some food, prepare his mind to a relieving sleep (usually!), meet some fellow trekkers, check his next route, discuss options with the other people there, or just have a chat after a solitary (but wonderful) walking day. The hut I like the most till now is the Tuquerouye hut; when you arrive there, you really feel you deserve a rest; it is the most simple, remote, “rustic” I know in the Pyrénées, and it is just wonderful, specially after the last 2 hours climbing to reach it; to reach it, it is a real climb in the Tuquerouye corridor, on a molten glacier, a very steep (40% average) climb on moraine boulders for half a kilometre. Once there, if weather is good: to the south: Monte Perdido; to the North: Cirque d’Estaube; you will not forget. . . . . There is accommodation for 10-12 persons in this hut, all is “do it yourself” (no permanent staff; they come from time to time for cleaning and . . . bring firewood); wonderful hut! On the first picture you see the little shelter on top of the corridor in the Brèche de Tuquerouye; the second picture shows the hut itself: a cooking-eating room at the entrance and the “beds” in the second room; that’s it! An idea of the comfort on picture 3. . . . The Baysselance hut (picture4) is a five star hotel compared to the previous one; you even can have dinner there; and when you arrive at the Sarradets refuge in may, after having walked in the snow, don’t forget to take off your crampons before entering through the window (picture 5), the choughs take care of the refuge. . . . .
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If you do not want (or like) to camp, but want to stay overnight in the high mountains, you may use the huts. The huts are not hotels!, they are sometimes just shelters, sometimes a bit more luxurious, where the keeper may even cook you a dinner! Most of them are run by alpine clubs, and have staff in summer (May to September, depending on altitude and climatic conditions).The prices are varying, rather cheap (but it is Spartan!), and if you are member of the CAF (Club Alpin Français) you pay half price; being member is cheap, and it may be financially worth if you intend to stay more than 4-5 nights in different huts; being member of the CAF also covers high mountain insurance (just in case, if you need a helicopter rescue. . . .. haha, you will be rescued in any case (not like in US where they ask for a credit card number before they send a helicopter, if I believe what I read and have seen in M. Moore’s “Sicko” movie), but if you are not insured you will have to pay for helicopter and hospital). In summer, groups are advised to make reservations long in advance (2-3 month) and individuals should make reservations 2-4 weeks before. (Again, if you are member of the CAF, you have priority if you arrive short notice, say, for the evening just when you arrive) A list of huts with phone numbers (for reservation, etc. . . ) is on the weblink. Off season (Sept-May), when there is no staff in the huts, they are closed, but a part of the hut is ALWAYS accessible, sometimes, climbing in through a open window, sometimes just going through the main door, but only the sleeping area (with mattresses and blankets) and an eating room are accessible, and you have to find yourself water, and cook on a table. . . . Restrooms outside, in the snow. . . . . I do not have a big hut experience, as I prefer to sleep in my tent, and the huts are sometimes far from the HRP, and I find them always “cosy”, thinking of the harsh conditions outside, sometimes. . . . On Picture 1 is the Baysselance hut (2651m), near the Oulettes d’Ossoue Valley head; still a bit snow in August; good starting point for a climb on the Vignemale or a walk on the Ossoue Glacier. Is it not wonderfully located? Picture from Lesser Vignemale looking NE to Pic de la Sede and Pic d’Ardiden on the horizon. On picture 2, the Refuge d’Ayous (1982m), located near Pic du Midi d’Ossau, near the shore of Lac Gentau, with the Ayous ridge at the back. Easy to reach with a 3 hours nice walk from the Bious Artigues parking (trail head). Refuge des Sarradets (picture 3), also named “refuge de la Brèche de Roland” (2687m), photographed from “El Casco” (3006m) already in Spain; picture taken in July; in May, there is still a lot of snow. . . This refuge is located above Gavarnie, and within easy reach from Col de Tentes parking trail head. You see the parking on the meadows, the Especières Lake, behind and the Pic de Sècres is still covered by some snow. The small Refuge de l’Abérouat (picture4) is located at 1442m in a small valley above the very picturesque Cirque de Lescun, in the high Vallée d’Aspe, bordered by high limestone cliffs (here the Orgues de Camplong). This last refuge on picture 5 is at la Pierre St Martin, not a real mountain hut, as it is located near a ski resort; but it is a very good starting point to excursions to the Pic d’Anie, or (as in my case, one time) a good shelter and stopover on the HRP, between Vallée d’Aspe and Vallée du Barétous; this is a privately run hut, and the keepers are mountain lovers, very kind and make excellent food for the exhausted hiker arriving from Basque Land just before night, in the fog and mist of April; it is far outside the National Park, but the Pyrénées are not only in the park; Refuge Jeandel.
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Yes, why not carry your tent when on trek in the mountains? Well, weight is the enemy of the trekker, so better have a light one. . . . . I will not give more advice, just write that I like a lot to rig up my tent in a place I like, where I feel I will have a nice sleep. And when walking at your own pace, going to remote places, far from the huts, it may be a good option. And the mornings are beautiful, after a quiet night or a night rocked by the thunderstorms, looking at the mountains receiving the first sun rays. . . I inherited a more than 2 kg heavy tent which I used for some time, and now I have a light 1600grams tent which resists thunderstorms, is four seasons rated, is very easy to rig up or to fold, takes very little space in the backpack, and I enjoy my rough camping. Even for one or two nights, it may be worth to take a tent when visiting the Pyrénées; just remember the National Park rules, wait 7 pm before rigging up and rig down before 9 am. In limestone mountains are lots of caves, on places, and some are a good option to spend a night; many are used by trekkers who with time made quite cosy shelters. . . . Picture1 : Near Baysselance Picture 2:under the clouds in Cirque de Lescun Picture 3: morning, not far from Gavarnie Picture4: Near Glacier des Oulettes de Gaube Picture5: My “bed” in a cave, in Ordesa National Park (Spain). Theme: OtherAddress: In the mountains
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