Sit down at any of the outdoor restaurants in the evening and begin with a caraf of red wine and bread. Many menus feature a complete meal for 15-30 euros that will include a salad, a main dish and a dessert. You can plan on spending at least two hours eating and talking and soaking up the city. If you are alone you might choose the place du Capitole for people watching. If you are a couple you may prefer one of the quieter spots on a side alley. Head down rue St. Rome from the Captiole and turn right on rue du May for two more intimate establishments.
When I was 20 I spent a summer staying with a family in Millau on the Tarn. In four weeks I managed to put on fifteen pounds. (One never wants to offend by turning down the host's cooking.) It also happened to be the best food I had ever eaten! The father of the family had grown up on a farm and eaten well all his life. His favorite expression -- which he said in his thick Occitan accent while patting his gut -- was "La ventre, ca plait aux femmes." (A man's stomach pleases women.) I managed to lose most of those pounds over the course of that summer but I still have a serious weak spot for the cuisine of these parts.


