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A little town full of history, architecture, music
"History and architecure"
The history of Saintes dates back to Neolithic times. But it first rose to importance when it was developed by Caius Julius Rufus to the glory of the Roman Emperor Germanicus in the 1st century AD. It was built as a major staging post on the route between Lyon and Bordeaux but soon became important in its own right. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Saintes went through successive periods of wars and battles, including Viking raids, the struggle between the English Plantagenets and French Capetians, religious wars, etc right up to the early 17th century. Then it went through a long period of prosperity. All of this turmoil is reflected in its buildings, monuments and museums.
Everywhere you look in Saintes there are wonderful little pieces of history or architecture. The big ones are easy to find:
The Arch of Germanicaus, which used to stand at the river bridge as the main entrance to the town, now stands on the East bank of the Charente.
The ruins of the Ampitheatre - a 126m long ellipse around which 20,000 spectators sat - is set in a pretty valley.
The nearby church of St Eutrope was built over a Roman crypt (still accessible). The church iself contains some beautiful carvings on the pillar capitals.
The cathedral of St Pierre has a remarkable domed bell-tower above it and a delightful mix of styles inside.
And the Abbaye-aux-Dames, with its own corner in the history of Saintes. Built as an abbey for abbess- daughters of the grand families, it was sacked during the religious wars, fired, and then used as a military barracks before its recent renovation. It is a patchwork of architectural styles, with a pine cone belfry and a magnificent West porch - a masterpiece.
But there are many more, smaller treasures to be found, if only you have time to wander - and get lost!
"and then there's music"
The reputation of Saintes as musical centre is getting to be known around the world. The centre-piece is the annual Music Festival (in July), mainly featuring ancient music and instruments. The centre of activities is the Abbaye-aux-Dames but concerts are held throughout each day, all around town, and even in country churches around Saintes.
But music isn't for once a year. The "orchestra in residence", you might say, is the youth orchestra, which offers rigorous training to students from around the world who wish to study ancient music and play ancient instruments. They give concerts throughout the year - as an orchestra and as chamber groups - often under the baton of well-known conducters. In addition there are regular concerts in both the Abbaye and the Cathedral, with many international artists taking part.
"plus a bit more history and architecture"
If you have time, go looking for the archeological museum (near the Germanicus arch). Then over the river into the winding lanes beside the cathedral you might spot the Art Nouveau house front in rue Cuvilliers, the Echevinage (rue Alsace-Lorraine) - housing the Museum of Modern Art, the Municipal Library (magic little garden!), the Présidial (now the Art Gallery), the little square by the Hotel de Ville (town hall) - and, and, and. Just get lost and find them!
