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waiting for the shrimps and wine
Fish, yes fish in the bay of RethymnoA walk around Rethymno -section 2
Follows on from the 'Walk around Rethymno -section 1' .
The trouble with doing a walking tour is that, rather worryingly, one starts to affect a rather bossy tone of voice. If you can handle it, follow me for 2nd part of your walk!
We left you shopping in the market street of Souliou - you come out the far end in front of Nerandzes mosque - a fine minaret. This (as of Spring 2005 ) is being restored and the minaret is under scaffolding. The mosque started life as a Venetian church, and is now a music school.
Down the side of the mosque runs Othos Vernadou - a particularly pretty place to come and eat at night (see restaurant tips) where candles flciker in the old venetian walls. By day, there are shady courtyards and imaginative cafe interiors here. A possible lunch stop: Minares, or the Ouzeri/Mezedhes place further down the street.
At number 28, the Folk Art Museum is in C17th Venetian house: traditional costumes and old household implements. Mnay items are still commonly used today in parts of rural Crete. Look out for the tapestry depicting scenes from the Battle of Crete in 1941.
At the bottom of Vernadou, turn left into Nikiforou Foka- another street with higgledy piggledy houses. Take first left again, doubling back so that you end up on Ethnikis Andistasis - an excellent place to end your walk, because it is a wonderful street for food/souvenier shopping. At the top of the street, near the Porta Guora, there is a 'fournos' (bakery), a shop called 'Moka' that sells nuts, sweets, coffee, oil (& will wrap them into pretty presents), a dairy/cheese shop, and a 'pantapoleion' which sells local wine and raki. Also, in the street is a little ecclesiastical supplies shop that sells lamps, icons & incense.
This has been a long tou; at the other side of Porta Guora : all the bustle of the modern city of Rethymnon. Definitely worth an explore too, for its cafes, churches, the public gardens & the shops and craft studios of just the other side of the gate. That is for another day though!
