Principality without a palace
A walk at Vathy is one of the most enjoyable things one can do while on Samos.
Samos used to be an autonomous principality under the Ottoman empire in the late 19th century. Unfortunately the palace of the local ruler does not exist anymore - a hotel (now derelict) was built in its place. But the capital town, known as Samos (official) or Vathy (as locals call it), became quite important during those times.
Until about 1800 Vathy was inhabited only on the hillside, at the quarter now known as Ano Vathy ("Upper Vathy"). Settlers gradually inhabited the seaside grounds and the wonderful natural harbour gradually got developed into a more organized seaport. The town has maintained much of its traditional colour, with the tile-roofed homes.
I find Vathy and its surroundings as one of the most enjoyable places for a walk, especially on a summer afternoon and evening. One can start from Ano Vathy's narrow winding streets, continue through the Prosfygika ("Refugee Settlement"), past the old prince's garden (now a small park), along the commercial or the seaside street (try both), then to the northwest for a few kilometres into the rural area of Kalami. In my teen years I used to spend most of the summer on Samos, at my uncle's home at Vathy. It was kind of a ritual for me every evening to get in town around 9 pm and just start walking along the main seaside street, from the customs house to the main square. No activity and no rendezvous were planned beforehand but after two or three rounds back and forth from customs to square I got to meet most of my friends and an activity (movie, eating, drink, clubbing, party or just plain chat) was agreed on the spot. Everything was within reach on foot; life was simple and nice.


Looking down on the Venus Hotel.
Potami beach, seen from Nikolaos Church
Manolates: houses
Vathyper Vathy