How it was
by iandsmith
Walking. If you want to understand Capri, you have to walk. It's not all that long ago that you had to walk to get anywhere and the size of the streets and alleys indicate that this was so and modernization, as far as vias are concerned, only amounts to bitumen on some roads.
It was less than a century ago when Capri (the town) and Anacapri were linked by a zig-zag trail that you had to walk. It's still there today.
I walked part of it one morning when I took off from our accommodation about 500 metres out of Capri and strode up the hill to Anacapri. I started out pre dawn and spent time on the Via Provinceale (main road between the two) and some time on the old trail. To be there at that time was to glean a little understanding of what life must have been like because, although there was a path, the inhabitants of the two villages didn't like each other and mostly kept to themselves.
So I was alone, save for the odd motorscooter and one bus and my mind transported me to another time, another place.
En route there is a cave with the usual madonna and candles (pic 2), bidding me god speed I imagine.
It took rather less time than I anticipated and I was up there comfortably in under one hour and then took time to ascend further on the trail to Monte Solaro, the island's highest peak. I never made it. Time and the trail seemed to peter out but it was an exclusive experience as I pondered life from the deserted slopes of the mount, looking out over the rooftops of Anacapri (pic 3) as the town slowly awoke to greet yet another day when the tourists would climb onto the buses and scooters and the road would be continually awash with some vehicle or another.
Even up here there were religious symbols on the rocks (pic 4) but the over-riding memory was of that splendid view over Marina Grande from near San Michele (pic 5).
Quest for the Loo
by goodfish
Public bathrooms in Italy can be an experience, and FINDING one can be an adventure. We were having a late day beverage at Gran Caffe on the Capri piazzetta when nature called. A request to the waiter for the location of their facilities sent him running - only to return a few minutes later with a key. A key? After much pointing and discussion, it turns out their lavatory was a hike across the piazza, around a corner, down a corridor, to a locked door bearing the same name as the cafe.
They make buildings last a long time in Italy and they're often not able to modernize with luxuries like plumbing, I guess. Good advice? Don't ever wait until the last minute as relief might be farther away than you think! :)
Get around Capri
by ruki
Capri ferries arrive at the port of Marina Grande. From Marina Grande, buses run up to Capri town and Anacapri. There is also a funicular which travels to Capri town. If you don't fancy lugging your suitcases around, you can hand them over to a porter who will deliver them to your hotel for a fee (many hotels will arrange a porter service for you). Buses travel busily around the island, connecting Capri, Anacapri, Marina Grande, the Grotta Azzurra, Faro and Marina Piccola. Boats also run around the coastline. The island, however, is highly walkable so you may not bother too much about public transport when you're there.
Boat Trip
by Catspjm
An absolute must is to take a boat trip around the island in one of the many small and immaculate boats that leave from the harbour on a regular basis.
Takes about two to three hours and isn’t that dear (Sorry, I can’t remember the exact price) Money well spent and a great way to pass the day and see the island up close and personal
Wander the little alleyways......
by leics
...although I suspect the word 'alleyway' would not really be acceptable. Lanes, perhaps? Whatever, Capri town and surroundings is a warren of these narrow byways, far too narrow for cars. Presumably things get moved around by the trolley-thingies I saw going up and down (with suitcases, or mattresses, or pots of paint/tools etc) although originally, no doubt, it was all done by donkey.
But they were nice to wander through out of season, I must admit. You can look into people's gardens, and at people's houses/villas, and at the rather wonderful views which periodically appear, and at little farms/smallholdings/terraces as you get further out from the town. Very pleasant, worth spending an hour or so just pootling about (I don't think you'd get lost).
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The boats come in a variety of sizes and shapes
Below the lighthouse are the WWII gun emplacements
The unmistakeable Marina Piccola
Rosemarie descending Via Matromania
