Christmas cribs
by toonsarah
These nativity scenes, known as presepi, are a Neapolitan tradition dating back to the 13th century. Over the years it has become a real art form; in the 17th century nobles would commission renowned artists to create their very own nativity scene, as can be seen in the Santa Chiara cloister and in the Museo di San Martino. But there’s no need to go to a museum to see today’s presepi – simply head to the Via San Gregorio Armeno in the Centro Storico where numerous craftsmen who specialise in this tradition have their studios and shops. We were there in November when the street was packed with families choosing their decorations for the coming festivities, but I gather that the workshops are there all year round, though the atmosphere might be a little calmer.
What makes a presepe stand out from the regular nativity scene is its scale, and the way that the holy family is placed in a setting representing old Naples, with its architecture, its people and its traditions. The best and most complex pieces will hold your attention for ages. You may see herders leading cows to the pasture, a couple sharing a meal, children playing, maybe a fight in an inn, etc. In addition to these ordinary scenes, and the focal point always of the nativity itself, Neapolitans have for over 200 years included figures of people who made news during the year, such as a politician or celebrity – I read of Paverotti, Princess Diana, Mother Teresa and Elvis all being “honoured” in this way, though I didn’t see any examples.
During the 19th century the presepe became a standard Christmas fixture for most homes, when poorer families created their own scenes with miniature chalk, terracotta and papier-maché figures. Today on the Via San Gregorio Armeno you can see not only the workshops where skilled craftsmen produce these scenes but everything you need to create your own at home: little rocks, bark and wood, streams with flowing water powered by tiny motors, balustrades and columns, and figures of all kinds.
Trains
by iNorv9
Trains are probably the best day to get around the Campania region. From Naples, you can reach Pompei in 20 minutes, and Sorrento in 50. For a stay of 3+ days, consider buying an Artecard; you'll get unlimited access to the entire transportation network.
Campi Flegrei
by skullcrusher
To get a good appreciation of the ever present volcanic activity in the Naples area, all you really have to do is make a trip west of Naples to the region known as the Campi Flegrei (Fiery Fields). This volcanic zone has been around for a long time and in fact the ancient Greeks consider this place to be the gateway to Hades.
The Solfatara Crater is an active volcanic cone which, like Vesuvius, threatens to spring to life and reek a path of destruction amongst the people who live in the area. For now - it makes for a cool day-trip to view the bubbling pools of mud and some wicked blow-holes shooting up vast amounts of superheated steam. The air is thick with the smell of sulphur.
There's also an area on the crater where you can check out some ancient stufas that the Greeks built that they used as saunas. Considering the temperatures can get as high as 160 degrees C I'm sure it worked quite well. Definitely an interesting experience.
Pozzuoli has a few little archeological sites that can be visited in the area, ie. Rione Terra (an ancient Roman city) & Anfiteatro Flavio ( a good-sized ancient amphitheatre). There are even more archeological sites in towns further to the west such as Baia & Cuma). But since I had seen enough of that stuff at places such as Pompeii I was only interested in going to the crater this time around.
Archeological Museum
by sargentjeff
Entry fee: 5 euro.
This museum is, without doubt, one of the most important archeological museums in Europe. My favorite area was the Pompei section, which included beautiful mosaics taken from the ruins.
It houses principally the precious collection which Charles of Bourbon inherited from the Farnese family that ruled the Duchy of Forma. The collection includes bronze statues, marble mosaics, paintings, furnishings and other items uncovered from the excavations of Herculaneum and Pompei, destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Nearly every important movable item from those excavations can be found here. The museum also contains finds from Coma and other ancient sites in Campania. It also houses the so-called Borgia Collection of Etruscan and Egyptian relics, and the Santangelo Collection of antique coins.
In Piazza del Gesu' is the...
by oneonta_ni
In Piazza del Gesu' is the church of Santa Chiara. The church was built in 1328 but was very badly damaged during WWII. The main attraction here is around the back - a convent cloisters. It is a very quiet place to sit if you have been walking in the hot sun all day. Benches and pillars in the middle of the cloisters are covered in brightly coloured majolica tiles.
Open 8.30 - 1pm & 4 - 6.30pm.
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Flemish frescoes above entrance (May 09)
Royal Palace, Castel Sant'Elmo
Santa Maria del Carmine Maggiore (Naples, It)
Naples and Mount Vesuvius (Italy)
