Trastevere is at its best on a sleepy Sunday morning when the pox of weekday traffic has miraculously cleared and the neon signs have been turned off. Sunday is also the morning of the flea market called Porta Portese. Expensive antiques and matrioshka dolls share pavement space with single shoes, marble busts of Mussolini, African handicrafts, and even the occasional genuine bargain. The smells of sausage and chestnuts and spicy porchetta (roast pork) hover over the whole glorious mess.
Porta Portese market. Open: Sunday 7am -1pm best entrance; viale di Trastevere & via Ippolito Nievo


