A little history
by toonsarah
There is anecdotal evidence that inhabitation of the Cinque Terre region began as early as the 8th century, when groups of Greek settlers, looking for a milder climate where they could grow vines and olive-trees without the fear of pirate raids, moved towards the coast. But it was only several hundred years later, when the expansion of Genoa’s territory led to greater safety at sea, that the inhabitants of the primitive hill settlements could gradually descend towards the sea. They were the first founders of Riomaggiore, a village clustered around the tiny harbour. Since then it has expanded, firstly following the narrow valley of the Riomaior river (which is today buried beneath the main street, Via Colombo) and later branching out into the neighbouring valley to the north.
The first historical mention of Riomaggiore as a village was in 1251, when its inhabitants swore allegiance to the Republic of Genoa in the war against Pisa. But it was only in 1343 that Riomaggiore became independent as a municipality, and later, in the 18th century, also absorbed it even older neighbour, Manarola.
Today the economy is focused to a large extent on tourism (some may say too large an extent), but there are still plenty of signs of the past, and the earlier occupations of farming and fishing are still important to its inhabitants.
A great place to do nothing
by davequ
Riomaggiore is a very steep walk from the train station into and up through the town. This means there are many beautiful views and vistas of the Ligurian sea as you trek up from the harbor all the way to the top of the town.
Riomaggiore also appears to be a little less "touristed" (though not much) than Vernazza. I chose Hotel Villa Argentina as a mild splurge for a hotel in the Cinque Terre, and was not disappointed. In fact, I was blown away at what a great choice it turned out to be.
When I was handed my key to lucky room 13, here is the view that awaited me on my terrace.
After recovering from "vista-shock", I ran downstairs to thank the desk clerk for giving me the best view in the hotel.
He returned the compliment with a bottle of the local wine (a naturally carbonated white somewhere between a good Asti Spumanti and a champagne) and some local cheese.
I spent the next 3 hours (see picture) lounging on the balcony with snacks, wine & my camera, gaping at the view and occasionally snapping pictures until the sun went down.
What a fabulous introduction to Riomaggiore!
I have some sunset pics in a travelouge.
Try to stay at least 3 or 4 days
by davequ
There is little to do, yet so much to enjoy.
I actually get sad when I read travelogues that say they hit all 5 towns in the Cinque Terre in one day and then left.
With 5 great little towns (Monterosso's a little more resort/"riviera-touristy") and some of the best hiking, the food, and most of all, the laid back "do-nothing" temptation to really relax and unwind, I cannot imagine staying in Riomaggiore or Vernazza less than at least 3 days. I never wanted to leave. Sunsets, hiking, fruiti de mare and pesto-pasta.
Sunset
by toonsarah
Everyone says it, and it is true – sunsets in the Cinque Terre are special. The combination of the particular light here with the ocean and cliff scenery is perfect. As we were here in the middle of summer, the sun had a habit of setting inconveniently late, usually just at the time we wanted to have dinner, but no matter. The light just after sunset was the best of all, and Riomaggiore’s harbour area one of the best places to enjoy it. Many of the younger visitors to the town would rendezvous on the rocks here to eat pizza and drink wine or beer as it set, but if you prefer some creature comforts there is a well situated bar, the Conchiglia (see my nightlife tip), and you will also get lovely views (though not of the sunset itself as the angle is wrong) from La Lanterna and Enoteca dau Cila, from where my main photo was taken.
Life in the Cinque Terre
by toonsarah
One of the things that most fascinated me about Riomaggiore, and the Cinque Terre region in general, was watching how people lived here, which is in many respects just how they must have lived for centuries. This is an unforgiving landscape for human habitation – steep, stony hillsides do not lend themselves easily to cultivation, even of such tolerant crops as olives and vines, and they are little better when it comes to building as it is so hard to find a level surface on which to lay your foundations. Yet people do live here, and the villages thrive despite these challenges.
And those features which make life here such a challenge are also what make the landscape so picturesque for we who visit. Each of the five villages clings to its hill or hills as if about to slip down into the sea below, and above the colourful houses are narrow terraces of vineyards shored up with dry-stone walls (or in Italian, muri a secco). The houses themselves are built as traditional tower houses, taller than they are wide, with entrances on different levels according to the height of the road (i.e. usually the back entrance is several floors higher than the front). They are painted in different soft shades of terracotta, pink, cream and yellow, many of them faded and crumbling, but no less charming for that. The shutters so necessary in this hot climate are mostly dark green, contrasting pleasantly with the lighter walls. Washing is hung from balconies or wherever else people can find somewhere to string a line. Narrow alleys and stairways thread their way between and even beneath the houses (we noticed this especially in Riomaggiore and in Vernaza). And despite the steep hills and consequently jumbled houses and streets, gardens are squeezed in wherever space can be found for them, providing vegetables for the household as well as colourful flowers.
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Train Schedule 2
marina
next to castle
Riomaggiore from the sea
