L'Eremo sul Mare

I can't give this B&B the rave review that everyone else has posted. For $250 euro a night, we slept in a tiny room that barely had room for a full time bed and a roll away. We were in the attic and had to bend over to walk anywhere on the floor and I'm 5'1. The wasn't much water pressure for the shower or toilet and weren't provided toilet paper. Breakfast wasn't the delightful message either. Melba toast in plastic and warm yogurt doesn't a breakfast make, which we paid an additona $20 a night to have. As for this climb, please do not make the mistake we did, here's the real truth. It is 571 steps, straight up with switchbacks. the stairs are made with varying materials (mud, stone, cement, marble) and can be very slippery. There are very few handlerails and the stair sizes vary as well. Often the view is nice, if you no mind looking straight down the cliff and aren't worried about falling off. Don't walk it in the rain or at dark, there was a landslide while we were there and people were hurt. Do yourself a favor and stay at in town.

Unique Quality: No hot water or toilet paper. Warm yogurt and very strong coffee.

What makes L'Eremo different is that, unlike most of Cinque Terre's accommodation, it isn't situated in the centre of one of the five villages, but just a short walk from Vernazza. This location gives visitors a nice feeling of being miles away from anywhere whilst still being handy for restaurants and bars in the evening.

To reach the guesthouse, you leave the path that connects the villages together just before Vernazza and climb a rather steep set of stone steps; I couldn't recommend this place for anyone who's less than averagely fit, but if you are, I think this adds to the feeling of discovering somewhere off the (very) beaten Cinque Terre path. The walk between L'Eremo and Vernazza becomes a little more tricky at night when there is hardly any light, but it's worth it to experience the twinkling lights of the village growing smaller and less bright as you walk back.

The hotel itself is very pleasant. The building is attractive and there's a garden where guests can sit out and enjoy the views. The living room and kitchen are available for guests to use, and are well-equipped. Our room was nice, with antique furniture and a private bathroom down the corridor, and was perfect for a romantic break.

Directions: Just outside Vernazza - check the guesthouse website for precise directions.