Yes, Pascelupo is not in Marche but in Umbria – however it is only 400 m away from the border between the regions. But for me it is THE place to stay when I want to stay in the eastern part of Appennini Mountains and discover the western parts of Marche’s province Ancona. I love the serenity of this little village, its location on top of a hill, the sunsets, the sunrises and the surrounding nature. And Luciana, the host, who is so caring and sweet! No photos of the interior of her agriturismo at the moment (I simply forgot to take photos before I started my mess, haha), but I’ll add some in June when I am back.
The agriturismo is located in a single house, a couple of metres away from her own house. It has a complete apartment with kitchen in the basement and three separate double rooms with separate (shared) bathroom on the first floor. The bedrooms face east and guarantee splendid sunrises in the morning. The kitchen is fully equipped with gas oven, refrigerator and storage space for self-catering. The next food shopping is either in nearby Sassoferato (a Conad market) or in Isola Fossara, and there is a small shop in the village where one can buy basic stuff.
In the meantime, Luciana has also opened a restaurant and she is catering festivities which are held in the village.
Pascelupo is ideal for hiking tours into Monte Cucco and its splendid nature, for visiting the nearby old monasteries of Fonte Avellana, Badia di Sitria, and Sant’Emiliano in Congiuntoli, and of course for Fabriano and its surroundings.
Price per night and person: 25 Euro. Contact at the moment is only via mobile (see website of Pascelupo and then click “ospitalità”).
Location of Agriturismo Borgo di Pascelupo on Google Maps.
© Ingrid D., April 2013 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)
Corinaldo is an ideal base to explore the northern part of Marche’s Provincia Ancona. I found Corinaldo through Piccola Grande Italia, my most favourite website’s videos and was immediately fascinated by its location on a hill with marvellous views. When I looked up possible places to stay I found I Tigli, which is located in a former monastery of 17th century, directly at the town walls. While I didn’t see any signs of this former Benedictine monastery, I found the room lovely and spacious enough for me with an incredible view of the northern surroundings. I enjoyed my stay here very much, also because of the lovely hosts. The signora spent a lot of time with me, bent over my maps and pointed out some charming old churches which weren’t marked on my map.
My room was big enough for me, with bed, TV (which I didn’t use), air condition/heater, bath with shower, sink, toilet and bidet and a hairdryer. My room faced northwest, with a magnificent view of the surrounding landscape. And I also realised why they have chosen the hotel’s name – i tigli – linden trees. The trees outside on the street were in full bloom during May 2012 and y room was constantly filled with their scent. While I am lucky not to have hay fever, this might be a problem for allergy sufferers, so make sure to ask for a room not facing the street in case you are allergic against linden tree pollen. Breakfast was sufficient for my taste: it was of buffet type, pastries in several variations, home made cakes, orange juice, butter, marmalade, Nutella, cold cuts, joghurts, fruit, and coffee and tea in several variations.
Payments: all major credit cards are accepted. I paid with my bank card. I also didn’t make a reservation because it was May (2012) and according to my experience this is a month with medium guest appearance.
I Tigli is also a restaurant. They are famous for their pizza. And yes, the Pizza Napoli (with anchovies and capers – my favourite) was really good.
How to get there:
Depending how you approach Corinaldo, drive to the northern part. Follow the signs to the parking lot. It is opposite of the hotel and free of charge.
Location of I Tigli, Corinaldo, on Google Maps.
© Ingrid D., April 2013 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)
I thought it must be nice to stay near Lago Cingoli on my way back to Gubbio. Easier said than done. When I drove around the lake, coming from Cingoli in its east, once again I realised that these small lakes aren’t like the big ones in the north: there is hardly access to the water and no lakeside location exists. But I didn’t give up and crossed the bridges in the lake’s west, when I saw a sign for an agriturismo. But instead of downhill to the shore the road lead uphill. After a while I found the place, walked inside and asked for a room. What followed was simply peace and the next morning it was hard to leave.
The moment I opened the (closed) window shutters of my room upstairs I felt peace. There is was: the marvellous landscape of this part of Marche, rolling hills and even the lake peaked around the corner. I had a short nap before I went downstairs for dinner. After dinner, at approx. 22:30, I stood a while on the terrace and watched the night scenes. It was quiet. Something special hung in the air. Glow-worms floated through the night. The macchia nearby gave off its sweet scent. Peace. I went to bed and slept heavenly. No noise at all like the night before in Preci. I woke up at 5 in the morning opened the window and there she was: mother earth slowly waking up. This peaceful atmosphere was so strong that I sat at the window for almost two hours while the morning dawned: birds started to chat, an occasional rooster crowed, dewdrops glistened in the arriving sun, mist slowly ascended from the lake, the fields had all different shades of green and it changed every minute. Peace.
When I came down for breakfast, it was already prepared. Very good and lovingly done with sweet rolls and homemade cake, juice, marmalade and my choice of coffee. After I finished, I went back to my room, packed my backpack and went downstairs to pay and leave. But the landlord was nowhere in sight. No one was there. I waited for a while, went out on the terrace and looked for signs of other people – no one. I went out on the street and saw him suddenly out in the surrounding fields, helping a farmer with his tractor. So I grabbed my backpack, put it into my car and stood next to the car watching him. Very much relaxed. Suddenly it seemed that I had all the time of my life (and of course I had, Gubbio was less than 100 km away). Eventually he saw me and waved. And then it seems that he realised that I was ready to leave and pay. He started to race but I made a gesture to slow down, which he did. I followed him inside and didn’t even care to lock my car with literally all my belongings in there (including my money belt filled with quite an amount). We chatted a bit and then I left. Why do I write all this? Because it stands for the people there. Well, not only in this region but almost everywhere outside the typical tourist routes. And while I continued my journey I was thankful to him for having given me back a bit of belief in the good nature of human beings.
The agriturismo has six rooms. Some have names relating to their location relatively to sunrise or sunset: aurora (dawn), tramonto (sunset) and alba (another name for dawn). I paid 35 Euro (May 2011), which is their low season price for single occupancy.
Around the house is a nice garden with roses and chairs under trees, or the terrace with lake view.
It depends where you comes from. The closest superstrada is SS76 from “Umbria” to Ancona. Look for signs for Apiro in case you come from the west or Cingoli in case you come from the east. Drive to the north-western part of the lake (the road from Apiro leads there anyhow), cross the lake via two bridges and drive uphill until you see the agriturismo on the left (east) side of the road. There are also (brown) signs at the bridge for it.
Location of La Corte sul Lago on Google Maps.
© Ingrid D., April 2012 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)
The service in this hotel was very good. It's just a few steps from the beach and has an excellent restaurant. We were there in late September so all of the tourist crowds were gone. I'm pretty sure that the staff outnumbered the guests. We will definately stay here again.
Our next stop was staying at the Villa Castellani on a hillside near town of Mogliano, a diamond in a hidden gem of a region. Family-owned and managed, it could not be a more welcoming spot. Mogliano is a commune (village) located about a 4-hour drive south of Verona, past Bologna and Ancona.
We spent a well-balanced week of sight seeing, resting by the pool and eating, which was perfect. The Marche Region lacks the intensity of Tuscany or Umbria but was more of an adventure with fewer tourists. This also was the most bumbling time we have had with English speaking skills. At one restaurant, when the young waiter didn’t understand anything we were trying to say, he brought the owner over who gave us German menus! But they brought us gratis after-dinner drinks anyway.
From here we did ½ day adventures to several hilltop towns, seaside resort towns, and even hiked for 2 hours in a natural reserve park atop Monte Conero.
We also visited an old abbey, Monastero d’Fiastra, and heard monks in brown and white robes chanting in their chapel. We did a self tour of the underground cantina where the wine barrels, food, and water were stored and then walked the nature trails around the massive Riserva Naturale surrounding the monastery.
We used the pool at the villa at least twice each day, then napped in the hammock or read on the peaceful grounds. Our balcony room overlooked rolling hills of bright sunflowers and farms.
The meals at the villa (again, no menu) and around here were some of the best ever and featured items such as papardelle with a duck ragu, melon and proscuitto, carpaccio served with rucola (rockets), and duck gnocchi. Each day we had some sort of pizza also. Dinners start at 8:00 pm and by 9:00 pm, the tables were all full. The standard presentation is an antipasto, then a primo piatta (usually the pasta dish), a secondi piatta, and dessert and coffee. It is no surprise the meals go 2-3 hours. Our evening time line was altered since we usually are in bed during the 9 o’clock hour, but we saw 11:30 -12:00 eight days in a row! What a pleasure to see no McDonalds or TV. Evening meal time is for the family and people gathering
This is heaven. Situated in the centre of Le Marche this newly renovated farmhouse sits on a hilltop with 360 degree views of the stunning valleys and hills around. You can be in the swimming pool looking out at the glorious Le Marche hills and all you can hear are the birds and crickets. It is one of the most beautiful, picturesque and tranquil places I have ever stayed. What is also really lovely is this place is very Italian, the area is untouched by tourism.
The B&B is done with exquisite taste, using natural stone tile flooring, natural wood such as the beams in the ceilings and wooden worktops in the kitchen, stainless steel kitchen appliances, beautiful stone masonry, stunning mosaic tiled bathrooms, lovely dark wood furniture in the bedrooms, even the drains and guttering are made from copper. It is absolutely gorgeous.
The accommodation is the upstairs of a beautiful two story cream building with green shutters and a lovely tiled roof. It sits in 19 acres of countryside which in turn is completely surrounded by the rural rolling hills of Le Marche. The B&B accommodation is upstairs, downstairs is the private home of the proprietors. The B&B accommodation consists of two large double bedrooms which are next door to each other, each with their own shower rooms with lovely mosaic-tiled monsoon showers. There is a communal area consisting of a fully-equipped kitchen, dining area (which sits 8 people), living room and outdoor terrace. Next door is a suite which has its’ own double bedroom, shower room and living area, and those guests would also use the communal kitchen and dining area and terrace. Comfortably the accommodation takes 6, but can sleep 4 more at a squeeze if people are content to sleep on the sofas in the living areas (which fold out to be full-sized double sofa beds). The B&B is accessed from a side stairway (so you never have to disturb the proprietors) which takes you onto an amazing terrace which is communal for B&B guests. When things get too hot sitting on the terrace you can take a dip in the lovely new swimming pool, which is deep enough in the deep-end for diving, long enough to get some good swimming for exercise, and you can lie out on the wooden sunbeds on the poolside terrace, which come with cushions and they provide beach towels.
The kitchen is fantastically equipped with everything you will need to self-cater for your lunches and dinners if you don’t want to go to local restaurants, which is fantastic as it gives you complete freedom to do your own thing.
The accommodation itself is beautifully cool, with high beamed ceilings and thick walls with shuttered windows with fly screens. On this hilltop it always catches the cooling breezes, and can be 10 degrees cooler than down in the plain and coastline. So even in the baking midsummer heat, this place is a cool, breezy retreat. And if it gets too hot – there’s the pool!
Some small but very thoughtful finishing touches really made the visit special, like a homemade and delicious fruit smoothie for breakfast, and home-baked chocolate bread for breakfast or tea, which was magnificent.
Alison is a professional masseur and aromatherapy expert and provides the most amazing massages and hot stone treatments, an idyllic hour or so being pampered and afterwards felt utterly rejuvenated and refreshed, which was a marvellous way to start the holiday.
One of the best things on offer here as well as the treatments is the wine tasting, and you must take them up on this. The experience is priceless. Roberto really does know his stuff, so ask him questions. They provided 7 bottles of local wine, bought from the Enoteca in Jesi, and served them on the table on the B&B terrace. If you want to buy any more of what you have tasted to take home with you, you just go to the Enoteca in Jesi, which is about a 30 minute drive. Alison provided a dish of local antipasti which included absolutely delicious stuffed peppers, artichokes, olives, and amazing cheeses, all locally sourced. As we nibbled we sipped on local wines which are absolute gems, they chose a fantastic range. The wines they provided to taste were (Whites): Bonci San Michelle; Salerna Verdicchio dei castelli di Jesi classico 2007, €6.00; Plenio Verdecchio dei Castelli di Jesi Doc Classico Riserva 2005 – award winning, €14.50. Reds: Le Terre Rosso Piceno Doc 2007; Origolo Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Denominazione di Origine Controlla Superiore 2007 €8.50; Grosso Agontano Rosso Conero Doc Riserva Garofoli €14.50; Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2006, €7.50. They provided each wine with hand-written labels on the glasses so we knew which they were, and full tasting notes to go through the wines. They sat with us as we enjoyed this feast and Roberto provided fantastic insights into the wines. They’re all local, Roberto helped to pick the Salerna grapes, and they’re all amazing. This really was a very magical, special evening, and the proprietors’ efforts and attention to detail were typical of how they run this whole place, this was an enormous treat. A follow-up trip to the Enoteca in Jesi will add to this experience where you can go to the fantastic cellar in the Jesi walls and speak to fellow tasters and the proprietors there, it’s a lovely way to spend the afternoon and I highly recommend it. The Enoteca della Regione Marche Sezione di Jesi is on Via Fedrico Conti, 5 – Jesi and you can contact them at email@example.com or at their website www.assivip.it Do NOT MISS THIS if you’re visiting this region to discover the Verdecchio wines. Jesi itself is a lovely town to visit with it’s ancient walled town, a lovely place to walk around. I’d recommend you have the wine tasting early in your stay so that then you can enjoy sipping the wine you have bought for the tasting for the remainder of your visit. You can store the white wine in the fridge and they have provided vacuum bottle-stoppers to keep the wine fresh. Alison and Roberto are a really lovely couple, so we really enjoyed their company for this evening and sharing the wine and food, it was absolute perfection and something I will remember for the rest of my life.
Walks around the B&B are not to be missed, and are a lovely way to get some exercise to walk off all the wine and food through amazing countryside with stunning views of the area.
The nearest town to the B&B is Apiro.
Breakfast is provided in the B&B, and the way they provide it as a breakfast buffet is a really nice touch, as it gives you the privacy, especially if you’re the only one(s) staying there, and freedom so that you can get up and have breakfast in your own time, contrary to many B&Bs where you have to give a time or operate to the proprietors’ schedule. We could get up when we wanted, help ourselves to the breakfast buffet, and eat outside in our own time and privacy. It’s very romantic enjoying a lovely fresh breakfast on the terrace. For lunches there are restaurants all around, or you can use the fridge/ kitchen provided in the B&B to self-cater. I bought local delicacies from the mini market in Apiro to eat lunches on the terrace. I also ate at the following restaurants and can recommend them all: I Ponti is the best, this local family-run restaurant is fabulously relaxed, friendly and welcoming, and the food is utterly outstanding. I Ponti is on S Maria Candelora 62020 Moscosi di Cingoli, tel 0733.612944. Also try La Corte sul Lago (website www.lacortesullago.it) or La Emeraldo on 0733.612104. Expect to pay something like €35 per head in any of these restaurants for a lovely meal which includes a local bottle of wine such as Le Terre, anti-pasti, secondi and desert. They are all a very short drive from the B&B and are all in lovely locations with very, very friendly people serving.
A car is essential. I visited Jesi, Cupramonta, Apiro and Cingoli. These are all very typical hilltop towns of the area and are all delightful with stunning views of the Le Marche rolling hills. Slightly further afield we visited the Le Grotte di Frasssi and Urbino. The caves are utterly breathtaking, rivals to Carlsbad Caverns in the USA as being the most beautiful caves in the world. Urbino is a real gem, slightly bigger than any of the places near the B&B, and it takes nearly 2 hours to drive there, but it’s well worth the effort. You’re rewarded with the quintessential Renaissance medieval town. If you’re into beaches and the coast, Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana are not to be missed. It will take you about an hour and a half to get to them from the B&B. In the south of the region, about an hour and a half from the B&B don’t miss Ascoli Piceno, Petritoli, Macerata and Sarnano. Macerata is famous especially for opera lovers, their annual Sferisterio is not to be missed at the end of July/ beginning of August, see www.sferisterio.it for what must be one of the best treats in opera available.
The pool, wine tasting, massage treatments, amazing views, idyllic rural setting.
Update, August 14, 2013:
Attention - this hotel has closed. I have removed my review but leave the "tip" here, since this hotel might still be listed in guidebooks.
Please do not rate anymore :-)
Allan and I did something on this trip that we've never tried before: we went without any reservations for places to stay! It worked out even though there were some "trying" times.
After figuring up the expenses of the four places that we stayed in the Le Marche, it averages 47 Euro per night, which I feel is excellent, especially since they were all very clean, well located, and had firm beds and in-suite bathrooms.
Here are the four places that we stayed in the Le Marche Region of Italy:
A. Hotel Dell Arte, Rua della Lupa, 6, Ascoli Piceno
This hotel was noted as a 2-star by the Information Center, but posted at the hotel as a 3-star.
It has a small lift, tiny reception with lovely family portraits on the walls.
Our room was large with a queen-sized bed and bunk beds, an in-suite bathroom, and a balcony.
The location is perfect...down an ally-like street, but in the ancient center and close to all the sites. It was clean with firm beds, a TV, and plenty of storage. (40 Euro per night, and we stayed for two nights)
B.Our third night in Le Marche, we stayed in 2-star Hotel Roma in Piazza Garibaldi in Camerino.
This night cost (50 Euro), and it, too, was an excellent location, right in the heart of the ancient centre.
Our room had a firm Queen bed, an in-suite bathroom, a balcony, TV, and a restaurant.
It was spotlessly clean and quite comfortable.
C. Next, we stayed at 3-star Albergo Bramante located: Via Roma, 92 in 61049 Urbania (PU), Italy.
Telephone: 0722 319562. (50 Euro per night)
This location was acceptable but not perfect. It was a bit outside the ancient centre of Urbania.
It did have excellent parking facilities, a restaurant, large reception, beautiful bathroom, and a room with wooden floors, a queen and a twin bed, TV, and a balcony with European blinds.
The only problem with it was that no heat was turned on at this time, and it was a very cool night; thus, we piled on the blankets.
D. In Sirolo on the Adriatic Coast, we stayed in a Bed and Breakfast called "Conero Camere which was located at Via Grilli, 14, 60020 SIROLO (AN)
Cell: 333 7482274 & 339 2227991 (55 Euro per night but that included breakfast)
This was the only place in the region that breakfast was included.
It had the smallest room of the four hotels, but it was very well done with a firm Queen Bed, TV with one English-speaking station, a beautiful bathroom, but no balcony (on the first floor). Perfect location (probably the best of the four) across from the side of the Parish Church, block from the main piazza.
I was skeptical when Allan insisted that we "wing it" for freedom's sake and not make any reservations. I was so frightened that we would have to sleep in our car! It all turned out well, and the places we stayed were clean, convenient, and not too expensive.
We stayed two days and enjoyed them very much. Its not very easy to reach it but at least we did it! It's surrounded by green. Owner is very kind and he gives you many advices on restaurants and visits, he gives you many natural and tasty products for breakfast such as jams, juices, butter and biscuits. Rooms are clean and confortable, with wodden forniture and floor. We also had a terrace in our room and we stayed out to watch falling stars.
Exceptionally nice B&B. Conveniently located about 20 minutes from both Ascoli Piceno & San Benedetto del Tronto, nestling amongst olives & vines on the undulating Marche countryside is the tranquil Nascondiglio di Bacco (Bacchus hideaway).
Charmingly run by Silvia Cuneo, Nascondiglio di Bacco has warm, or cool, (according to season) rooms, immaculately decorated with stylish en-suites & stunning views. Excellent breakfasts are served at times to suit guests.
The B&B is in an terrific location for exploring southern Marche.
English, French, Spanish, Portuguese, & Italian is spoken by the attentive & knowledgeable hosts.
Several very nice restaurants are within a few minutes drive.
We stayed for only two nights but would have loved to have stayed more & shall certainly return
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