Villa Fornaci, Apiro: Le Marche Wine Tasting Heaven
by kathycook73
This is heaven. Situated in the centre of Le Marche this newly renovated farmhouse sits on a hilltop with 360 degree views of the stunning valleys and hills around. You can be in the swimming pool looking out at the glorious Le Marche hills and all you can hear are the birds and crickets. It is one of the most beautiful, picturesque and tranquil places I have ever stayed. What is also really lovely is this place is very Italian, the area is untouched by tourism.
The B&B is done with exquisite taste, using natural stone tile flooring, natural wood such as the beams in the ceilings and wooden worktops in the kitchen, stainless steel kitchen appliances, beautiful stone masonry, stunning mosaic tiled bathrooms, lovely dark wood furniture in the bedrooms, even the drains and guttering are made from copper. It is absolutely gorgeous.
The accommodation is the upstairs of a beautiful two story cream building with green shutters and a lovely tiled roof. It sits in 19 acres of countryside which in turn is completely surrounded by the rural rolling hills of Le Marche. The B&B accommodation is upstairs, downstairs is the private home of the proprietors. The B&B accommodation consists of two large double bedrooms which are next door to each other, each with their own shower rooms with lovely mosaic-tiled monsoon showers. There is a communal area consisting of a fully-equipped kitchen, dining area (which sits 8 people), living room and outdoor terrace. Next door is a suite which has its’ own double bedroom, shower room and living area, and those guests would also use the communal kitchen and dining area and terrace. Comfortably the accommodation takes 6, but can sleep 4 more at a squeeze if people are content to sleep on the sofas in the living areas (which fold out to be full-sized double sofa beds). The B&B is accessed from a side stairway (so you never have to disturb the proprietors) which takes you onto an amazing terrace which is communal for B&B guests. When things get too hot sitting on the terrace you can take a dip in the lovely new swimming pool, which is deep enough in the deep-end for diving, long enough to get some good swimming for exercise, and you can lie out on the wooden sunbeds on the poolside terrace, which come with cushions and they provide beach towels.
The kitchen is fantastically equipped with everything you will need to self-cater for your lunches and dinners if you don’t want to go to local restaurants, which is fantastic as it gives you complete freedom to do your own thing.
The accommodation itself is beautifully cool, with high beamed ceilings and thick walls with shuttered windows with fly screens. On this hilltop it always catches the cooling breezes, and can be 10 degrees cooler than down in the plain and coastline. So even in the baking midsummer heat, this place is a cool, breezy retreat. And if it gets too hot – there’s the pool!
Some small but very thoughtful finishing touches really made the visit special, like a homemade and delicious fruit smoothie for breakfast, and home-baked chocolate bread for breakfast or tea, which was magnificent.
Alison is a professional masseur and aromatherapy expert and provides the most amazing massages and hot stone treatments, an idyllic hour or so being pampered and afterwards felt utterly rejuvenated and refreshed, which was a marvellous way to start the holiday.
One of the best things on offer here as well as the treatments is the wine tasting, and you must take them up on this. The experience is priceless. Roberto really does know his stuff, so ask him questions. They provided 7 bottles of local wine, bought from the Enoteca in Jesi, and served them on the table on the B&B terrace. If you want to buy any more of what you have tasted to take home with you, you just go to the Enoteca in Jesi, which is about a 30 minute drive. Alison provided a dish of local antipasti which included absolutely delicious stuffed peppers, artichokes, olives, and amazing cheeses, all locally sourced. As we nibbled we sipped on local wines which are absolute gems, they chose a fantastic range. The wines they provided to taste were (Whites): Bonci San Michelle; Salerna Verdicchio dei castelli di Jesi classico 2007, €6.00; Plenio Verdecchio dei Castelli di Jesi Doc Classico Riserva 2005 – award winning, €14.50. Reds: Le Terre Rosso Piceno Doc 2007; Origolo Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Denominazione di Origine Controlla Superiore 2007 €8.50; Grosso Agontano Rosso Conero Doc Riserva Garofoli €14.50; Brecciarolo Rosso Piceno Superiore 2006, €7.50. They provided each wine with hand-written labels on the glasses so we knew which they were, and full tasting notes to go through the wines. They sat with us as we enjoyed this feast and Roberto provided fantastic insights into the wines. They’re all local, Roberto helped to pick the Salerna grapes, and they’re all amazing. This really was a very magical, special evening, and the proprietors’ efforts and attention to detail were typical of how they run this whole place, this was an enormous treat. A follow-up trip to the Enoteca in Jesi will add to this experience where you can go to the fantastic cellar in the Jesi walls and speak to fellow tasters and the proprietors there, it’s a lovely way to spend the afternoon and I highly recommend it. The Enoteca della Regione Marche Sezione di Jesi is on Via Fedrico Conti, 5 – Jesi and you can contact them at enoteca.jesi@libero.it or at their website www.assivip.it Do NOT MISS THIS if you’re visiting this region to discover the Verdecchio wines. Jesi itself is a lovely town to visit with it’s ancient walled town, a lovely place to walk around. I’d recommend you have the wine tasting early in your stay so that then you can enjoy sipping the wine you have bought for the tasting for the remainder of your visit. You can store the white wine in the fridge and they have provided vacuum bottle-stoppers to keep the wine fresh. Alison and Roberto are a really lovely couple, so we really enjoyed their company for this evening and sharing the wine and food, it was absolute perfection and something I will remember for the rest of my life.
Walks around the B&B are not to be missed, and are a lovely way to get some exercise to walk off all the wine and food through amazing countryside with stunning views of the area.
The nearest town to the B&B is Apiro.
Breakfast is provided in the B&B, and the way they provide it as a breakfast buffet is a really nice touch, as it gives you the privacy, especially if you’re the only one(s) staying there, and freedom so that you can get up and have breakfast in your own time, contrary to many B&Bs where you have to give a time or operate to the proprietors’ schedule. We could get up when we wanted, help ourselves to the breakfast buffet, and eat outside in our own time and privacy. It’s very romantic enjoying a lovely fresh breakfast on the terrace. For lunches there are restaurants all around, or you can use the fridge/ kitchen provided in the B&B to self-cater. I bought local delicacies from the mini market in Apiro to eat lunches on the terrace. I also ate at the following restaurants and can recommend them all: I Ponti is the best, this local family-run restaurant is fabulously relaxed, friendly and welcoming, and the food is utterly outstanding. I Ponti is on S Maria Candelora 62020 Moscosi di Cingoli, tel 0733.612944. Also try La Corte sul Lago (website www.lacortesullago.it) or La Emeraldo on 0733.612104. Expect to pay something like €35 per head in any of these restaurants for a lovely meal which includes a local bottle of wine such as Le Terre, anti-pasti, secondi and desert. They are all a very short drive from the B&B and are all in lovely locations with very, very friendly people serving.
A car is essential. I visited Jesi, Cupramonta, Apiro and Cingoli. These are all very typical hilltop towns of the area and are all delightful with stunning views of the Le Marche rolling hills. Slightly further afield we visited the Le Grotte di Frasssi and Urbino. The caves are utterly breathtaking, rivals to Carlsbad Caverns in the USA as being the most beautiful caves in the world. Urbino is a real gem, slightly bigger than any of the places near the B&B, and it takes nearly 2 hours to drive there, but it’s well worth the effort. You’re rewarded with the quintessential Renaissance medieval town. If you’re into beaches and the coast, Portonovo, Sirolo and Numana are not to be missed. It will take you about an hour and a half to get to them from the B&B. In the south of the region, about an hour and a half from the B&B don’t miss Ascoli Piceno, Petritoli, Macerata and Sarnano. Macerata is famous especially for opera lovers, their annual Sferisterio is not to be missed at the end of July/ beginning of August, see www.sferisterio.it for what must be one of the best treats in opera available.
The pool, wine tasting, massage treatments, amazing views, idyllic rural setting.