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S.P. Maremmana 541, Siena, Tuscany, 53018, Italy
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Sylvain having lunch at Spadaforte
Siena by Jelena
Jamb Figure
Bronze angel decorating the font
We want to spend a day in Siena during the week of the Palio in July. We want to avoid the crowds that will be there on the day of the Palio. Would it be better to visit the day before or one of the days following? Thank you for the information.
Definitely after the Palio. There are dinners and things in the streets in each contrada for the few days before and there are sure to be lots of tourists. It's quite festive.
Well if you want miss the great traditional Palio event you better visit 2 days after the Palio. The whole week before there will be preparations for the race, horsedraw, pratices, dinners and so on.
But you will miss one of the most important culture events all over Europe or the World if you miss Palio.
I loved the Palio and the dinner the night before. I wrote an article about it. Hope you like it:
http://www.mensvogue.com/health/articles/2007/08/palio
Do visit Siena during the Palio. This is a bareback horse race taking place in the medieval town streets with riders/horses competing from each of the remaining medieval sectors of the city. Each section has its own "animal/symbol" and each part of the city hangs flags with its "animal" all around the roads. The crowds are impressive and the tradition breaks down generational boundaries as you see grandparents, parents and children all taking part in the events.
I always go angel-spotting when around old religious buildings. Not because I believe in them (because I don't) but because they are often tucked away, beautifully carved or sculpted and (most importantly from my point of view) if they are Medieval then their faces are probably those of real people who were around at the time.
In the UK cathedrals and old churches are covered in images of the worthy and not-so-worthy citizens known to the artisans who carved and sculpted and built; I am sure the same applies to the Medieval artisans of other countries. So it's worth exploring the faces a little, for they let us know a little more about the ordinary people who were around at the time........and that builds understanding.
The angels in the picture are hidden away on a side door panel of the Duomo. The one on the right is clearly a most determined young man!
One of my friends that I met in Italy is the co-owner of this restaurant, so I may be slightly biased, but the food really is good. Not only that, it's sort of this neat Medieval basement type atmosphere with little grottos and beautiful romantic settings.
Siena's history is linked to the tradition of the Palio a great deal. Siena is made up of 17 'contrade' which are real independent cities within a city. The Senesi talk of their belonging to a certain 'contrada' first and then to the whole of Siena. A lot of energy, great economic as well as organizational efforts are needed on the part of the Comune di Siena (town hall) and its 'contradaioli'. The Palio used to be originally performed with bulls and buffaloes, but later horse races took over. The final organization of the Palio as it appears today dates back to 1656. This event called Palio has widely been used as a show and it has become a business within which interests and diplomatic intrigues mingle at a latent and at a more overt level. According to tradition, there exist alliances between the poorer 'contrade' and secret agreements are made in order to hinder the opposing 'contrade'.
A complicated system of rules and attributions still supports the unfolding of the Palio. On the last Sunday of May flags representing the participating 'contrade' are selected. Four days before the Palio the 'hot' phase starts with the local administration's list of the horses that have been admitted to the race and a group of 10 horses are selected. Each horse (barbero) is assigned to each jokey at random while this latter is chosen by the representative of the 'contrada'. Then the six races follow. They take place in the morning and in the evening.
The Palio takes place twice a year: on 2nd July it is dedicated to the 'Madonna del Provenzano', the city's patron saint, while the one on 16th August bears the name of 'Palio dell'Assunta'. On 2nd July forecasts are made as to the future holders of the 'cencio' (rag), a coloured silk cloth with the emblem of Siena.
The Cathedral of Siena is the most elaborate building you'll see here in this historic city. Built in the 13th Century, it is most famous for the unique Black and White Striped marble decor inside. The connecting bell tower is also designed with black and white striped marble. The floors are also unique, having wonderful mosaics depicting scenes from the Old testament as well as virtues and allegories. The gorgeous pulpit was sculpted by Nicola Pisano. There are many other works of art contributed by many other famous artists. A visit here is must, if for nothing else but the art.
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Q: Bikes "Is Siena a bike friendly town or is it too crowded? Thank you."
A: "not really.."
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