There are many good things you could say about this family-run albergo. The rooms are generously sized, and the comfortable beds equally so. Everything is clean and well-cared for. The welcome is friendly and efficient. The breakfast is good and offers much more choice than many lower-priced accommodations in Italy.
One thing makes this little hotel stand out way beyond any of these, and that is its view. Perched on a hillside about a mile from Bevagna it commands a view of the wide valley below, stretching from Assisi to the north almost to Spoletto in the south. The green fields below are dotted with farms and Italy’s distinctive cypress trees, and cut by waterways. Each hill beyond seems to have its own fortified town: Assisi, Spello, Montefalco, Trevi. This really is a view you could gaze at for hours – and we did. Wonderful in all weathers, it surpassed itself in the misty dawn – see my General tip for some images of one of the most special moments of our stay here.
Back to the practicalities. The rooms are built in a line, in a long low structure set into the hillside and a little apart from the reception area in the main house and the restaurant beyond that. They are designed to make the most of the view, with each facing towards it and fronted by a stone terrace with chairs for relaxing. The furniture is traditional but the bathrooms have modern fittings and a large walk-in (though rather slippery) shower. There is a small TV (which we didn’t turn on), a mini-bar and room safe, and a built-in cupboard serves as wardrobe. With the May nights decidedly chilly we were glad of the effective heater and the extra blanket provided, but I would have welcomed a second pillow too.
Breakfast is served in the first floor restaurant which like the rooms looks out over the valley and has large picture windows to maximise the impact. It consists of rolls, pastries, cheese and ham, jams, cereals and yoghurt, with fruit juice and freshly made coffee (or tea) to drink. The same restaurant is open for dinner on six evenings a week (closed Sundays), and tables must be reserved by 6.00 PM. We had one dinner here – see my separate restaurant tip for details.
Prices are reasonable for the quality and exceptional for a place with such a fantastic location. We paid €70 per night for our double room, including breakfasts.
Directions: From Bevagna drive south on the SP 443 and turn right immediately beyond the village. Passing the church of the Madonna della Grazie, turn right and right again down a rough track at the signpost.
I discovered this most magic bed&breakfast or albergo only by chance as I simply did not find the one I was looking for (Torre Antico in Viepri, described by @poortrekkers (Emlyn & Denise)). So I headed further north of Massa Martana, direction Bevagna, and checked one of my travel books for further options. One mentioned an albergo with a gorgeous view into Valle Umbra and I decided to have a look. And oh my, I was speechless once I turned into the parking lot – I had the plain of Valle Umbra in front of me and a view that stretched from Assisi to almost Spoleto. When I asked if they would have a room and how much it costs, I was even more surprised! I would have expected something around 70-80 Euro, but no, 50 Euro only, inlcuding breakfast. So my decision was quickly taken and I moved into my room. The room was very big with huge bed, desk at the window, in-built cupboard (in the photo on the right hand side) and big bathroom with shower. The dominating colours were sun and earth, which gave the room a very relaxing atmosphere. No wonder that I didn’t have any “problems” with the weather – I stayed inside when it was raining cats and dogs and enjoyed the view out of the window. And often I was sitting at the terrace, reading.
The premises are very nice and inspring. They have 29 rooms (mostly double rooms but also triple ones or suites), all built in a row next to each other and separated from the main house and restaurant. With the big meadow in front of the rooms and the huge terracotta flower pots it all looks very much harmonic. Oh, I should mention that the rooms have TV, phone and a minibar. But these things don’t matter much to me.
Behind the restaurant (at a higher elevation than the rooms) is the pool area, which has enough sunchairs and parasols for sunbathing and sitting in the shade. And all with this gorgeous view!! I also liked the huge round glass lamps in the pool area, which gave a very soft light in the evening (see travelouges for more photos).
Unique Quality: Breakfast was served in a room next to the dining area, of course with this magic view across the whole Valle Umbra. The choice was excellent, cold cuts, cheese, jam, fresh bread and croissants, orange juice, a kind of cranberry juice, fresh fruit and caffè (freshly made with a machine) or tea.
The main house is equipped with many old furniture and new design objects like very creative lamps (they have something with lamps). And there is a reading area in the basement and upstairs as well.
Would I stay here again? Yes and to be honest, I could go back right now, because now I could enjoy all, Il Poggio dei Pettirossi has to offer. Maybe I could spend the rest of my life sitting at the pool with a good book and their excellent coffee!! It is a real retreat!!
Oh, and their restaurant is excellent as well. In early spring it is open Thursday to Sunday, but in summer it is open daily.
Their website is in Italian only at the moment, but excellent made! Please don’t miss their video (I forgot to make one…) – it shows a lot: the relaxing atmosphere, their love for life, hospitaliy, beauty, design and Brazil (the music is Brazilian). Oh and it also shows a bit more of the pool area, including the huge lamps and their soft light during the night as well as the other light objects and the reading areas and the library.
Il Poggio dei Pettirossi video
From Bevagna take the tiny road southwest the village which leads to chiesa Madonna della Grazie (signposted). At the church, turn right and then right again when you’ll see the sign to Pettirossi.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
Directions: From Bevagna take the tiny road SW of the village to chiesa Madonna della Grazie (signposted). At the church, turn right, then right again at the signpost.
Coordinates on GoogleEarth:
ponte delle tavole 2, Bevagna
Corso G. Matteotti, 79 Bevagna
Vocabolo Cantone, Bevagna
Via del Poggio, 1, Bevagna