Travel Tips for Gubbio
Gubbio was affected by the 1984 earthquake
by Trekki
We tend to forget that Italia’s Appenine Mountain region is earthquake region. I don’t mean that it should scare anyone to visit this beautiful region of Italy, but to raise awareness why some buildings might be closed for restoring or why even some roads or paths are not accessible.
The most horrible days in Umbria’s recent history were September 26 and 27, 1997. This was when an earthquake (5,7 on Richter scale) hit Umbria with epicentre near Foligno. Eight people died, thousands were unsheltered. And the roof of Basilica San Francesco Superiore collapsed. Most tragic was that two monks and two technicians who were cleaning up dump from a former “light” earthquake inside the basilika died under the debris of the collapsing roof. The technicians belonged to a TV team who had planned to record part of the cleanup, so a video of this exists. It shows how horrible the earthquake must have been. Luckily, thousands of people worldwide donated and conservators came to work as volunteers to help restoring the Cimabue frescos. They did an amazing job, sieving more than 1200 tons of debris and sorting out around 300.000 pieces to restore the work. Only 2 years after the earthquake the basilica could open again. Most of the donations went to Assisi since the Holy Year year 2000) was nearing. The other villages with similar bad damage had to work longer to rebuild and restore their buildings and churches, Norcera Umbra for example. Even now, 13 years later, you can see the scars the earthquake left in many villages and often, churches are not open to visitors.
Earthquakes are not uncommon for Umbria and the surrounding provinces. We all remember the horrible earthquake (5,8-6,3 on Richter scale) April 6, 2009, which destroyed the centre of
L’Aquila (Abruzzo region) where more than 300 people died and hundreds of thousands of people were homeless. Also recently a minor earthquake (4,2 on Richter scale) hit the region west of Deruta (south of Perugia). The reason for this is that the African plate moves northwards and slides under the Eurasian one. Gubbio though was not affected during these two in 2009.
Now that I update this (August 2010), the path of Via della Cattedrale towards Palazzo Ducale is closed due to renovation. Several cranes are placed in the eastern part of town, also due to renovation. But luckily Gubbio wasn’t affected that much by the 1997 earthquake. The most destructive one the locals experienced was on April 30, 1984, one of 5,2 on Richter scale. Luckily no one was killed, but several people were wounded. This again makes me feel sure that Sant’Ubaldo also watches about the lives of his people during earthquakes. When I was in Gubbio in May and early June 2010, obviously a minor quake happened (2,1 in strength). I didn’t notice it but found out only now, during my research.
© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update August 2010.
La Balestra – part of the soul of Gubbio
by Trekki
When I think back to November 4, 2009, when I met so many Eugubini of three of Gubbio’s important societies, the one with balestriere Daniele A. was the one which had most impact on me. The words I have on my homepage, a quote of Albert Einstein will always come to my mind when I think of this time:
The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science. He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead: his eyes are closed.
or in Italian:
La cosa più bella che possiamo sperimentare è il mistero; esso è la sorgente di tutta la vera arte e la vera scienza. Chi non riesce a provare questa emozione e non sa stupirsi di niente, e come se fosse morto: i suoi occhi sono chiusi.
During this afternoon at the training range of Gubbio’s balestrieri I learned so much about this tradition and, thanks to the best Christmas present ever, I will learn even more next year in May. Grazie mille, Daniele!!
The balestrieri take their ancient tradition very serious and still perform according to the old codex which was set up 500 years ago. This includes a very peaceful identification with their art and skills, in a way similar to the spiritual and philosophic principles of my (Aikikai) Aikido practices, especially when we practice with the wooden stick and sword. It is concentration and being one with the “instrument” (I can’t find a better word now).
Already the balestre (crossbows) are pieces of art. Although the functionality is almost the same for the balestre (except the trigger which can be above or below the bow body) the woodwork design is based on the individual ideas, philosophies, values of the balestiere. When Daniele A. showed us his balestre we could see that he is of Gubbio’s quartiere Sant’Andrea, since the plume symbol is carved on one side (main photo). The other side has an emblem which symbolises the ancient tradition of crossbowing: an old Medieval town with wall and tower and the tasso (target) and arrow (photo 3). The back end of the body has a stylised lion head with additional lion head carvings at the side. His second balestra is not carved but has inlay work: Palazzo dei Consoli on one side and all four quartiere unified (see photo in the quartiere description). And of course, Gubbio’s symbol, cinque colli is there, as metal decoration for the joints. Ah, speaking of the metalwork: the balestre have also griffons most probably made by Gubbio’s blacksmith Luigi Barbi (see photo).
Also the arrows are handmade. They are 48 cm long, made of light wood with a heavy iron arrowhead. Consequently the centre of gravity is rather in the front of the arrow, that’s why they have to be shot in a parabolic curve to reach the target. Decoration of the arrows is also optional, Daniele Angeloni sees his as symbol of a bird in the flight and paints little dots for eyes next to the beak, the arrowhead.
I think, the words, Donatella Pauselli has chosen for the video about Palio della Balestra describe the meaning of a balestra best:
##The balestrieri have the faith that the arrow, like an invisible path, passes on the path of the ancient soul into the heart of man today.##
(Thank you again, dear Edvige, for having provided me with the key to your beautiful language, so that I could understand many parts of the texts, although it will still be a long way for me to go).
Maybe I should mention that I dream of learning this ancient tradition, but I am wise enough to understand that this is out of any discussion, since it is a tradition performed exclusively by men. So I will stick to my Aikido staff to practice inner peace and concentration.
© Ingrid D., November 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
Luigi Barbi's artwork everywhere in Gubbio
by Trekki
Already during my first visit to Gubbio in April 2008 I was fascinated by these metal rings at Palazzo dei Consoli. I thought that they are old and meant to lash horses while the owners were doing business or discussions inside the Palazzo. Yes, that’s certainly true but more fascinating is that they are still being forged. I realised this when I looked at some of them a bit closer. Mainly the ones at Palazzo Bargello are of newer date and the symbols have cute shapes. Not only there is one with cinque colli (photo 3), Gubbio’s symbol but there are roosters (photo 2), a funny dog or sheep (photo 4) and fabulous animals, mostly looking like dragons (photo 5). Thanks to my Italian teacher Edvige Galasso I had the chance to met Gubbio’s blacksmith Luigi Barbi in his smithy and saw many of his other artwork. He still forges beds and house decorations and said horse lashes. And since he is member of Gubbio’s Società Balestieri it is logical that Palazzo Bargello, seat of the society, has a whole set of the horse lashes at the walls. In addition, this includes his marvellous iron works of the balestre, the cross-bows.
Update, May 2010:
Thank you dear Luigi, Edi and Daniele for your wonderful idea of a late birthday surprise! Now I have my own griffone at home, hand made by Luigi :-)
© Ingrid D., December 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
Walk up to the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo
by Trekki
Next to the cattedrale is one of Gubbio’s town gates, Porta Sant’Ubaldo. This is the start of the long path which leads uphill to Basilica Sant’Ubaldo. And it is the path that plays a major role in Gubbio’s most famous Festa dei Ceri: this is the path the three ceri and ceraioli take, or better run, to bring the ceri uphill to the basilica. It is definitely worth to walk uphill instead of taking the funicular, because only then it is possible to get an idea of the enormous power and skills of these guys, who run this distance in 10 minutes!! My god, even if I take out my exhaustion when I was in Gubbio first time and calculate the time I would have needed to walk uphill under normal conditions, I still would have needed approx. 40 minutes, but without any weight to carry, except backpack with water…. And these guys, each team (or ceri) with 320 kg on their shoulders, run this distance in 8-10 minutes!! Look at the photos they have on the Ceri website (2008 and then scroll down; it is the last set of photos at the bottom) to get an idea and appreciate what they are doing during the festa!
The walk uphill is really nice. It provides marvellous views of Gubbio and the surroundings. When I walked up first time in April 2008, it was quite windy, but I was happy with it since it cooled down a bit. In summer it can be a bit strenuous, especially when it is hot, but the trees provide good shade. Half along the way is Fonte di Sant’Ubaldo (photo 4), where you can fill up your water bottle. Just before the stairs to the basilica is a little restaurant, but this opens in May. However, at the top of Funivia (see transport section) is another restaurant.
When you walk up the hill, watch out for the many wooden poles and the star. They are part of the world’s biggest Christmas tree and are permanently installed at the hill and on its top.
© Ingrid D., February 2009, text revamp December 2010 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
In the footsteps of San Francesco
by Trekki
Almost everyone connects the famous saint San Francesco (St. Francis) to Assisi. Busses carry thousands of visitors and pilgrims every month to Assisi to see the famous basilica, the frescoes, his tomb, the town. But outside of Italy not many people know that not only Assisi but also Gubbio was a station in the saint’s life. Legend says that when San Francesco abandoned his former life as the son of a rich textile merchant and was thrown out of Assisi by his father, he went to Gubbio and received shelter and refuge by Spadalonga family, textile merchants as well. It is said that the family gave him the brown habit, to date the characteristic dress of San Francesco monks. Spadalonga family lived where in 14th century the basilica San Francesco was built: at Piazza 40 Martiri. Parts of their former house had been integrated into the church’s sacristy. A little relief (see photo) on the door to the sacristy is now showing this handing over of the habit.
But it was not only receiving the habit what made San Francesco’s life in Gubbio famous for the Italians and especially the Eugubini. It was also the wolf whom the saint has tamed. Legend has it that once after a bad farming year, a ferocious she-wolf frightened the locals. The wolf killed farm animals and also some people. San Francesco went into the woods, found the animal, talked to her and convinced her that it would be better to live in peace with the locals instead of frightening them to death. The end of the story was that the wolf accepted to be friendly from now on and the locals fed her and were no longer afraid of her. There are many interpretations about this wolf taming. Some say that it symbolised the winning of friendliness over sin, ferocity and avidity, some say it was a man who was possessed by the devil and others say that it was a prostitute (the word lupa at the little church of SM Vittorina might lead to this). But then in 19th century, when parts of the houses near the little church San Francesco della Pace (Chiesa dei Muratori) were renovated, the people found a skeleton of a wolf, buried under a stone. The stone is part of the altar in this church now.
Famous Italian singer Angelo Branduardi has composed a marvellous CD in 2000, called L’Infinitamente Piccolo (The infinitesimally small). It is about San Francesco’s life. One of his songs is about Il Lupo de Gubbio in 2000. The lyrics are as follows:
Francesco a quel tempo in Gubbio viveva
e sulle vie del contado
apparve un lupo feroce
che uomini e bestie straziava
e di affrontarlo nessuno più ardiva
Di quella gente Francesco ebbe pena,
della loro umana paura,
prese il cammino cercando
il luogo dove il lupo viveva
ed arma con sé lui non portava.
Quando alla fine il lupo trovò
Quello incontro si fece, minaccioso,
Francesco lo fermò e levando la mano:
"Tu Frate Lupo, sei ladro e assassino,
su questa terra portasti paura.
Fra te e questa gente io metterò pace,
il male sarà perdonato
da loro per sempre avrai cibo
e mai più nella vita avrai fame
che più del lupo fa l'Inferno paura"
Raccontano che coì Francesco parlò
e su quella terra mise pace
e negli anni a venire del lupo
più nessuno patì.
"Tu Frate Lupo, sei ladro e assassino
ma più del lupo fa l'Inferno paura".
© Ingrid D., December 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
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Gubbio, Gola del Bottaccione
Famous sign of Federico da Montefeltro
Chiesa SM Vittorina, wall frescoes
San Francesco and wolf: still loved :)
