Gubbio will change you, but never vice versa
by Trekki
Among the many villages and towns in Umbria and Marche I have visited so far, Gubbio is the most charming and the most harmonious. But then I am biased because I like this town so much that I know that from a point in time I will spend the rest of my life here.
Authentic - would this be an appropriate way to describe this? I think yes (and I am not referring to what self-appointed wisearses in the management world write about authenticity). And I think that my descriptions of Gubbio will explain why this town and no other touched me so much that I want to live here. It is a bit silly to begin with food, but for example you will never ever find any of these rubbish hamburger things like McDonalds or any other “foreign” take-away in the town. I heard that yes, there was once a Chinese take-away but it didn’t stay in business for long. The people would not just go there. And why should they??? Eat something that is worse than their own local or Italian food? There is a small pizza snack under the arcades of Loggia dei Tiratori, and this one is quite frequented in evenings or during the day. But then the pizza, the girls make, is not of the rubbish quality of the Pizza Huts around the planet. It is made according to the age old recipes. And if one flavour is sold out, it is sold out. Period. Starbucks?? Never ever in this or any other life Starbucks could set foot in Gubbio. No, mista Howard Schultz, not one milliliter of your rubbish brown liquid will never ever be sold in Gubbio! Why? To drink some of this rubbish flavoured brown liquid which is called coffee? To call this rubbish coffee is similar to terrorism with words to me! Caffè is Italian drinking culture and it is already horrible that this chain could open in bigger cities. I bet that there is a Starbucks in Firenze. But then this would only possible because Firenze prostituted itself for tourist money. Not that tourists are not welcome in Gubbio, quite contrary: every honest tourist and visitor is highly welcome. But not the tourists which want to tour through the world as a museum or a zoo, always behind secure bars and never stop screaming for “things like at home”, such as the ones I have described as Eurodisney tourists in Venezia La Serenissima. It would never ever be possible that an egocentric tourist would stop bell ringing in Gubbio as it was the case with the bells in Mezzema, Liguria recently. In a way this reminds me of the words of the Warrior of the Light by Paolo Coelho “don’t spend your life to play a role that others have chosen for you”. The people in Gubbio won’t let tourists decide how they have to live or what they have to do or not do.
But there is more to what I mean when I write authenticity. The traditions, the beliefs, the values are alive. Everyday. In the heart and soul of every Eugubino (ahaha..I love the Italian machismo in the language; this word includes the women). I have already described the importance of Sant’Ubaldo. He lives in the hearts of the people and I realised that he also has occupied a big part in my heart. He protected the town ages ago and he still protects: the city and the locals. The Ceri festival is another example. The whole May, especially around Festa di Ceri, Ceri Mezzani and Ceri Piccoli is one huge wave of emotions, of passion, of laughter, of debates and discussions. At 5:30 each of these three days the drummers go around the town to wake up the leaders of each cero and the captains. Throughout the whole day the town is filled with people dressed in one of the representing colours (yellow, blue, black – plus white and red). And then of course the other società, balestrieri and campanari and their presentations (manifestations): the emotions are almost impossible to describe – it is passion. My time in October 2009 gave me only a small glimpse compared to the weeks I stayed here in May 2010. It is authenticity. It is traditions and a strong belief in these. It is part of the daily life. It is living with and through values. It is a positive appearance and attitude. It is peace and harmony. It is the bells that ring every fifteen minutes. It is shelter. Yes and it is paradise to me. I still smile when I think about all these self-discovery seminars for which the over breeding high speed lane society pays extortionate prices to find something that is often already lost forever. But it does not need these seminars or other overpaid self-appointed gurus to find peace with oneself. Come for a visit, open your eyes, let all what you see and feel enter your heart and soul and I know that you will feel similar. I seem to have revolted against trends, high speed lanes, and the gadget world for ages and was almost always placed into the abnormal corner: we don’t do this, we do that, you must not be this, you must be that. And then here … it was as if everything suddenly fell into place. Everything others (including my mother) ever criticised in me and what brought me almost to a point that I questioned myself - all that was no longer of importance. And will no longer be of importance.
Or to quote good old Goethe (from Faust, Easter walk):
Here I am Man, here dare it to be!
Grazie mille! Or Goethe in Italian:
Ecco fiume e ruscelli già liberi dal ghiaccio
al dolce sguardo della primavera
che infonde vita; lieta verdeggia la speranza
nella valle. Spossato, il vecchio inverno
si è appartato in monti inospitali,
e di lassù, fuggendo, scaglia solo
il brivido impotente della grandine,
a raffiche, sul piano verdeggiante.
Ma il sole non tollera più il bianco:
dappertutto si destano le forme e i desideri,
su tutto vuole infondere la vita dei colori,
e poiché i prati mancano di fiori,
ci mette uomini vestiti a festa.
Vóltati, guarda indietro
da queste alture verso la città.
Dal vano cupo della porta esce
un brulicare di gente variopinta.
Oggi hanno tutti voglia di sole.
Festeggiano la resurrezione del Signore,
perché anche loro sono risorti:
dalle umide stanze in case basse,
dai vincoli del mestiere e degli affari,
dall'oppressione dei tetti e dei comignoli,
dal pigia pigia delle strade anguste,
dalla notte solenne delle chiese,
eccoli, tutti escono alla luce.
Guarda! Guarda come rapida la folla
si frantuma per campi e per giardini,
come il fiume trascina in lungo e in largo
tante allegre imbarcazioni,
e come l'ultima, laggiù, si allontana
stracarica fino ad affondare.
Anche sulla montagna dai viottoli lontani
ci ammiccano vestiti colorati.
Sento già il tumulto del villaggio.
Il vero paradiso del popolo è qui,
dove piccoli e grandi felici fanno festa;
qui io sono, qui posso essere uomo.
© Ingrid D., November 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update July 2010.
Quartiere San Martino
by Trekki
Quartiere San Martino is Gubbio’s oldest quarter. Its symbol is the crown and it is present on the street signs (photo 1) and on one of the set of four flags (photo 4). San Martino’s church is San Domenico (see photo). Originally it was dedicated to San Martino but in 1287, after enlargement, it was handed over to the Domenican order and thus is now called San Domenico. When I was in Gubbio in Oct. 2009 it was not open. I have read that restorations are going on. Next time maybe, because the church contains beautiful artwork of Ottaviano Nelli. I also liked the very much characteristic shop sign of Macelleria Pompeo (see photo). This butchery is in business since 1859, proud of belonging to San Martino (the crown) and has the three ceri in their logo, each with the saints’ symbols and colours: blue helmet for San Giorgio, yellow mitre of Sant’Ubaldo and red flame for Sant’Antonio.
San Martino is also famous during Christmas time when life size terracotta statues are put up as a giant nativity scene throughout the whole quartiere.
Have a look at the video on youtube with music by Angelo Branduardi and other websites with photos of San Martino’s presepe. Gubbio’s special website has listed and described all nativity scenes and decoration in Gubbio. Next year I will see these in real life :-)
Update, December 2010:
Just found another video of San Martino's presepe, with more close up exposure of the statues.
© Ingrid D., December 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
Drummers and costumes, typical for festivals
by Trekki
Gubbio’s societies are in perfect harmony when it comes to festivals. Sbandieratori for example perform during the Christmas Tree illumination, at the opening of the truffle fair, during Ceri festival and surely many more. The campanari ring il campanone during the many festivals and then there is the group of tamburini (drummers) and the one who appear in these marvellous historical costumes. These are of magnificent quality, often velvet and with marvellous stitched parts. My Italian teacher told me that these costumes are handmade according to historical patterns. Next time I try to find out more about them. And then the drummers. They are, according to ancient traditions, the ones who call the crowd to gather and announce events and festivals. As far as I could see, Gubbio has three groups of tamburini, each of them belonging to a special society. The Ceri tamburini are the ones who march and call during the Ceri festivals each are belonging to one of the three ceraioli families of Sant’Ubaldo, San Giorgio and San Antonio, easily to find out through the colours of drum and waistband and are otherwise dressed in white pants and red shirts. Gubbio’s Sbandieratori tamburini drum during sbanderatori performances and then there are the San Martino tamburini, the ones which were gathering the crowd at the opening of the truffle fair. And standing next to them when they drum is something I will also never forget! It shoots right into the heart.
© Ingrid D., November 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
Good and comfortable shoeas are a MUST!
by Trekki
If you want to visit Gubbio and stay overnight you need to park “outside” or walk from train/bus stations to your accommodation. I highly recommend you bring luggage on wheels or backpacks, they are easier to carry on the often cobblestoned roads in the town centre. Bring shoes comfortable for walking. Gubbio’s streets are steep and often they have cobblestones. Your feet will be grateful in the evening. Bring warm clothes, even in summer. The temperature might get colder than at the coast. Umbrella or raincoat might be a good idea, depending on the season. If you want to visit churches, bring something to cover arms and legs, you will not be let in with inappropriate clothes. And generally, bring some nice clothes. This is Italy.... Gubbio has enough pharmacies where you can get medical supply. The pharmacists are excellent in giving advice and speak good English (my experience in October 2009 when I needed a patch to heat my aching back). Bring translation for prescriptions. You might like to bring first aid kits with band-aid, as you might have blisters from walking (in case you forgot – you’ll find them in the pharmacies). Foot cream is a good idea, too. My feet were happy in the evening with this :-) The most magic impressions in Gubbio are the churches and other buildings. Many of them have ornaments, sculptures and other details where you would need a good tele lens. In case you come for one of the festivals, the tele-lens is even more important, because you might not get a viewpoint in front of the events. Bring plenty, plenty of memory cards! There is no beach anywhere near Gubbio, but depending on the places you stay, you might have access to a pool. There is a public open air pool near Teatro Romano. If you plan to hike, bring all your equipment, as it is most unlikely to find places where you can rent tents and the other stuff. Hiking poles are recommended, the hills are steep in places. Binoculars are a good idea, to view building details. An Italian dictionary is always of help. And if you have a light sleep, bring ear plugs, in case you stay near the town centre. Remember Gubbio’s bells, which ring every 15 minutes, day and night.
© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update June 2010.
Christmas forever, in chiesa di S. Agostino
by Trekki
Italians express their religious beliefs in many ways. One of these is the detailed attention to nativities, or presepe in Italian. I saw photos of beautiful ones in several cities like Roma and Orvieto and of course know how famous Napoli is for their “cribs”. Gubbio’s locals, especially the ones of quartiere San Martino, also held this tradition of displaying nativity scenes very high. Emphasis is given to scenes, because they not only show baby Jesus, Maria and Joseph but also every day life in the streets (that’s why crib is not the proper word). The ones in Gubbio are made with life size terracotta figures, dressed in medieval clothes and shown in medieval sceneries. You can see a butcher who is at work, or a cheese seller, women with babies chatting, fresh bread (well, paper maché) and market stalls. Have a look at a youtube video about presepe in Gubbio’s quartiere San Martino (7 min, music by Angelo Branduardi) to see what I mean. These are put up from early December until January 7.
But for all those who cannot come to Gubbio during Christmas time, one huge nativity scene is built in a room inside the cloisters of Sant’ Agostino church just outside of the city walls. It is really beautifully made, the figures approx. 15-20 cm, with landscape scenery, houses, people at work, shepherds, a little waterfall, pastures and even a volcano which puffs little clouds. I also liked that they simulate day and night: during “night”, the lights are put on in the houses and stars appear on the sky behind the volcano. But be careful when you step into the room. It is dark inside although the button for lightening the scenery is easy to find. Once pressed, it lasts for approx. 10 minutes (or 3x day and night). There is no entrance fee but it would be nice to leave a donation in the box. It shall be open all day long. I didn’t see any opening signs and was there around 3 p.m.
Presepe Permanente on Google Maps.
© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
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Determining the winners, Palio della Balestra
Montone, on a hill top
Chiesa SM Vittorina, ceiling frescoes
Chiesa dei Muratori, during Ceri time :)
