Gubbio’s symbol is everywhere
by Trekki
Gubbio is located at the slope of Monte Ingino. This hillside situation had formed life in Gubbio since the times when the old Italic Umbri lived here in what they called Ikuvium. Going on top of the mountain to watch the flight of the birds was how the Umbri read the messages sent by the gods already in the centuries B.C. Going on top of the mountain to visit Sant’Ubaldo in the basilica is something not only the elderly do (although most might take the funivia). The Monte Ingino slope is where Gubbio’s big Christmas tree is lightening upday and night from December 7 on. And then the mountain plays one of the major roles during Festa dei Ceri, when the ceraioli race uphill to the basilica. The mountain is part of the life like the festivals and traditions. So it is most logical that Monte Ingino and the surrounding hilltops became Gubbio’s symbol. It is called cinque colli (five hills) and is literally everywhere. It is part of Gubbio’s coat of arms, it is on top of Fontana dei Matti (the fountain in front of Palazzo Bargello, see to-do section), it is stitched on the costumes of the flag throwers and crossbowmen, it features the big and the small flags which are flagged during all May (the major festival month), it is carved into the ceri and it is part of the “decoration” at the balustrade of Piazza Grande (main photo) and the stairs leading up to the main piazza (photo 2). It is carved into the decoration above Palazzo dei Consoli’s entrance door, it is in a relief at the outer part of Porta Romana, it is part of one of Daniele A.'s balestre (crossbows, see photo 5) and it is also present in the iron rings attached to many buildings. (Which reminds me that I should add “cinque colli hunting” to my list one day, i.e. trying to find as many of the symbols in Gubbio as possible during a day tour).
The ones at Piazza Grande's balustrade, BTW, make a nice photo opportunity in the afternoon when the sun is low :-)
© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update July 2010.
Helpful tourist office & iPhone apps :-)
by Trekki
Gubbio’s tourist office is very helpful with maps and additional information about the town and the region. For example I got magnificent posters in photo quality of all the major festivals and the city for free. Grazie mille, Evelino Vagnarelli!
For quick orientation: have a look at the marvellous town map at the (fee) parking lot at the right hand side of Piazza Quaranta Martiri (see main photo). It is a piece of art and shows the major buildings as little ceramic reliefs and the symbols of the traditions which are so much alive in Gubbio: the crossbows (balestre), the ceri and San Francesco and the wolf.
When I look at the list of events in Gubbio (2009 at the time I write this) there is something going on every month. Not only the important festivals of Ceri and Palio della Balestra but also the many food exhibitions and festivals like the truffle fair end of October (see to-do sectrion) and also the Altrocioccolato in October, a kind of alternative to the famous Eurochocolate in Perugia. There are music festivals like Gubbio No Borders jazz festival (August), Gubbio Summer Festival which is the theatre season in July/August in Teatro Romano. Many towns in Umbria have formed an association called Teatro Stabile dell’Umbria with many performances throughout whole Umbria, including Gubbio. Then there is Umbria in Danza (dance festival, also in summer) and theatre in Teatro Communale (located in Via del Popolo, quartiere San Martino) in winter. In summer, a festival called Life in Gubbio is being held at Piazza Grande in front of the marvellous Palazzo dei Consoli with music, dances, theatre, discussions but rather modern ones.
Have a look at the BellaUmbria link above or, since this does not list every event, better have a look at Gubbio’s website (though only accessible through the Italian version) at the events listed on the right hand side. They are listed per quarter (as in 3 months).
The tourist office is located in Via della Repubblica, the road which leads uphill from Piazza Quaranta Martiri. It is on the left hand side, a couple of metres past the clock (meeting point clock).
© Ingrid Denne, Decemer 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts). Riccardo Casagrande's excellent site for iPhones - more to come :-)
Signs of the Guelphs in Gubbio
by Trekki
Ever since I saw swallow-tail pinnacles in Venezia, they fascinated me. And then I learned that they have a special meaning and stand for ghibelline (supporters of the emperors) buildings, while rectangular ones symbolise the presence of guelphs (supporters of the church). Gubbio was in favour of the ghibellines for a long time, but eventually guelphs took over for a period of time before they were thrown out of the town by ghibellines. But during the time of the guelphs, Palazzo dei Consoli has been built or planned, because it has the typical guelph pinnacles. Who likes to know more, here is something to read about the history of guelphs and ghibellines.
© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
We stumble upon a park...
by poortrekkers
While lost among the cobblestone streets, we came upon a lovely park filled with olive trees, tower remnants, classical and modern displays, all in a very wooded serene setting. After following a twisting/ turning mulched path, we ended up on a beautiful green expanse flanked by a small temple. We could have easily wondered for hours, and taken rolls of film (or filled memory cards). It was hard to believe it was right in the town!
Parque Ranghiasci is perfect for relaxing
by Trekki
This park is perfect for a relaxed afternoon and even more so in autumn when all the leaves turn golden. It is called Parque Ranghiasci and was once laid out for Marquess Francesco Ranghiasci Brancaleoni, a noble man of Gubbio (19th century). Originally it was meant to be a connection for carriages from the city’s northwestern parts to Palazzo Ducale, since it must have been a nightmare to lead these uphill otherwise. Nowadays it is an English garden with zigzag alleys, several classicism buildings and medieval ruins, parts of the city wall and its towers and huge trees. In summer these trees must provide excellent shade. The park has two entrances. One is in Gubbio’s northwest, quartiere San Martino to be precise. Near this entrance is also an interesting building (photo 5): Palazzo Capitano del Popolo (peoples’ captain’s palace). It is of typical Eugubini architecture, huge arches at the entrance level and arched windows in the upper floor, most probably also with these characteristic window seats as in Palazzo dei Consoli and Palazzo Bargello. Nowadays it hosts a small museum, Museo della Tortura (torture museum). Though I haven’t been inside yet (next time, haha). The other entrance is at Via della Cattedrale, the tiny road which leads from near Palazzo Bargello and Fontana dei Matti to Palazzo Ducale. The park is open daily, but…. sorry, I honestly forgot to note down the opening times. There was a sign, I remember….
Parque Ranghiasci on Google Maps.
© Ingrid D., December 2009 (just in case, RS or others come along and think they can steal texts).
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Ceri Mezzani, just before alzata
Taking down the target (tasso)
Castello... Carbonara (haha, yes!)
San Francesco gets his habit
