Artists' Favorite Presents Flavor of Venice
I had been to Venice twice before and both times had stayed at the same hotel in San Marco. My stay had been pleasant but, at least in my mind, not very adventurous. This time I wanted to experience the out-of-the-way, the less well traveled and perhaps a little less touristy. Fortunately, Carol shared my goals and, for some inexplicable reason, trusted me to select the perfect accommodation.
Now the pressure was on. Price was a consideration of course, but more important was the potential for a great memory. After reading every travel guide I could find and innumerable web searches (including VT) I finally collated all my data and made a...wild guess! The choice was the Antica Locanda Montin. I booked it online and never gave it another thought...except for the two additional confirmation requests, the additional web-review searches and and a little anxiety on the train trip from Como to Venice.
We knew we would be on our own once we disembarked the Vaporetto at the Accademia Bridge stop but we kind of like it that way. With map in hand and rolling luggage in tow we were off. Amazingly, after a few luggage flips at bridge crossings, we spotted the enigmatic lantern with Locanda Montin written in red letters.
On entering we were greeted by a friendly young women, Elizabeth, who spoke enough English to make us feel comfortable and welcome. Yes, she was expecting us, yes our room was ready and no...there is no elevator. Up we went to the third floor and it was worth every step. Our room was one of the two rooms with a balcony and overlooked the Rio Delle Eremite, one of the many small side canals in Venice. The room itself was surprisingly spacious but definitely not the Ritz...and that was perfect.
The furniture and bed were slightly past their prime but comfortable. The bath seemed recently updated and clean. What was more remarkable was what wasn't there. There was no television, no telephone, no mini-bar and no pretense. For some these may be negatives...for us it was just right!
Unique Quality: Located in Dorsoduro, the Locanda Montin was a favorite spot for many late 19th Century and early 20th Century intellectuals and artist including Gabriele D'Annunzio, Modigliani and Ezra Pound. The evidence of this is everywhere. It seems that over the years it had become the custom for artists to trade their work for accommodations or meals. Consequently, the walls are quite literally covered with artwork...halls, stairwells, rooms...everywhere. As we understand it, some of the art become quite valuable but sadly had to be sold during tougher times.
The restaurant in the hotel was excellent. In fact Carol and I agreed that our dinner there was the best we had in Venice. We ate elegantly outside under their vine covered arbor somewhat in contrast to the artsy nature of the hotel itself. We also enjoyed the complimentary breakfast outside each morning.
While we were there we met two Puerto Rican women, sisters, who were staying at the Montin while on a side trip from Rome where one of their daughters was getting married. One sister related this story:
"I visited Venice before many years ago with my ex-husband. We stayed at one of the five star hotels in San Marco. It was very elegant. Nothing but the best. But, you know, you don't really see the place when you travel first class."
We agree!
Note: Price range below is for "Double Occupancy Per Person"
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