Palazzo Soderini

Campo Bandiera e Moro, Castello 3611, Venice, 30122, Italy
Palazzo Soderini
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More about Palazzo Soderini

Campo Bandiera e Moro

by suvanki

CASTELLO
VAPORETTO - ARSENALE

Christmas 2008, this was to be my address for 3 nights, as my hotel booking had been altered to La Residenza- the 14th century former Gritti Palace, who's Gothic facade, with its 5 mullioned windows, dominates the north side of the campo. I'm afraid that my room overlooked the street to the right of the hotel and not into the square ( I wasn't complaining though- I'd got a bargain there- my 3 nights together cost less than 1 night if I'd paid the normal price!). Located between Arsenale and San Marco Piazza.

I was quite curious to find the origins of the narrow street to the left of my hotel Calle della Morte - I'm sure there must have been a gruesome story. I asked the hotel receptionist, but either he didn't know, or couldn't explain.I've since found out that Calle de la Morte (Street of Death) is so called because the Consiglio dei Dieci (Council of Ten) regularly had people executed here if they were considered a problem for the Republic.

The name of this campo is quite interesting. It is named after 3 Venetian Officers serving in the Austrian Navy, brothers Bandiera and their friend Domenico Moro. The Bandiera family used to live in Palazzo Soderini (No 3611), (which is now a chic town house Bed and Breakfast).
In 1844, they plotted a revolt in Cosenza or Calabria for Italian unity. Mistakenly, they confided in the English government who betrayed them.They were executed by militia of the Bourbon Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
Their effort was considered so heroic, that this humble square was given the honour of being named a Piazza!! This lasted for 60 years. Today, the only square in Venice considered worthy of being named a Piazza is that of San Marco!


Typical of Venices campos, it is surrounded by buildings of different styles and ages, in the centre is a well head and there is a church. ( pic 3)

This church is San Giovani (St John) in Bragora, although it has plenty of interest, it appears to get missed by most visitors. Although I saw a tour group arrive at the same time each morning, they only stood in the campo for a while, and didn't enter the church

It is one of Venices oldest churches, with 8th century foundations. It's also the church where Vivaldi was baptised- a plaque on the outside wall commemorates this event. Vivaldi was born in one of the houses in this campo.

It's name is the cause of speculation - in the local dialect brago means mud, while bragolare means to fish. Then again agora comes from the greek word for a public square or market place. So it is feasable that there was a fish market here at one time - especially given its location, near to the Basino San Marco and the Quay of Riva degli Schiavoni. Other thought is that it is a reference to the area from where relics of John the Baptist were brought.

I found it to be an interesting square, and it was mainly very quiet, apart from people passing through it. It might be different in summer though. There are a few benches to sit and rest your feet. There were quite a few plaques around the square, as well as bas reliefs of St George slaying the dragon and under one of the balconies of the red coloured building, 2 old looking pieces. One is of a Lion (unusually it is holding a shield) and below it is - well I'm not entirely sure what creature it is! (pic 2 and 4)

There is a small cichetteria bar in the campo, where I used to enjoy my evening Aperol Spritz.

Snacks such as pizza, sandwiches and pastries are available. Also cichetteri such as sardines. Good selection of wines and draught beer.The clientele were all locals. I was quite surprised on Christmas Eve by an elegant couple stopping to wish me "Buone Natale" as they left. Open 0900-2300.

For fans of Donna Leon and her mysteries based around Commissario Guido Brunetti, the character Avvocato Filipetto (Wilful Behaviour) lives in this campo.

To reach this square from Arsenale vaporetto stop, turn left, cross the bridge, and take your 3rd alleyway -C/de Dose or from the Pieta take the Calle to its right (C/de Pieta) look for the plaque warning against parents leaving their children here as orphans (see my Things to do tip on The Pieta for more info) turn right into C/dietro la Pieta.

Photos

Antica Osteria Ruga RialtoAntica Osteria Ruga Rialto

Water around the basilica when we first noticed itWater around the basilica when we first noticed it

The Grand Canal greets you on arrival by trainThe Grand Canal greets you on arrival by train

Nov 05Nov 05

Forum Posts

Murano

by Iudo

Hi there,
I'm coming back to my favourite city Venezia for the sixth time in May, and this time I'm considering staying three nights in Murano, both to save money on accomodation expenses and to see a different side of the city. But I'm not sure how often the boats run between Murano and Venezia. Is it only from Fundamente Nuove? What is the price? And how late at night do the boats go?

Thanks!

Re: Murano

by Windsailor

You can get to Murano from Venezia from different locations, and here´s one that I have used and this is the number and route of the Vaporetto: Vaporetto nº 5; S.Zaccaria (known as Jolanda)- Muranco Navagero - Murano Faro - Murano Colonna - S.Zaccaria (Jolanda). Just to clarify, Muranco and Murano are not the same, so it isn´t a typo. Hope you have a good trip!

Re: Murano

by henry14

hi,

the following link has some good information about the routes to Murano:

http://europeforvisitors.com/venice/articles/murano_transportation.htm

Re: Murano

by domenicococozza

As pointed out by the last poster, there are plenty of services to and from Murano.
No: 41 runs from Piazzale Roma via San Zaccaria to Murano, and no 41 does the reverse journey.
No: 71 is an express route from San Zaccaria directly to Murano, with no 72 doing the reverse journey.Summer service only
There is also a night service(after midnight)from Fondamenta Nove stopping at all the stations as it circumnavigates Murano, then returning to Fondamenta Nove

Re: Murano

by Iudo

Thanks guys, it seems simple enough! We're booked into Locanda Conterie Hotel at Murano, a 3* hotel which is a lot cheaper than the 2*s in Venezia City. And I'm sure it will be a fantastic visit, as usual!
One more thing: how much is a single vaporetto ticket to/from Murano, and can I buy a 3 day pass or something? I'm sure we'll go into the city or Torchello at least once per day.

Re: Murano

by hawkhead

From P. Romano and from Ferovia there is the Diretto Murano bus, which starts from P.R., stops at Ferovia and then goes non-stop for Murano.

The single price ticket is €6-something, which is the single fare throughout Venice and yes, you can use it on the Murano leg of the trip.

Travel Tips for Venice

THE SECOND VENICE

by lizzeri

DO NOT MISS THIS HUMOROUS MASTERPIECE ABOUT VENICE

THE SECOND VENICE - ISBN 1598000888

http://outskirtspress.com/thesecondvenice

a very humorous fantasy book about a second Venice, built by Pshht Cola and McBigBite after the Italian Government's decision to limit the number of tourists to Venice, to protect the City.

One nice thing to do is to go...

by mjmarble

One nice thing to do is to go to a concert of one sort or another. These range from extreemly posh and expensive to very humble and cheap. As we stumbled through the streets we found some flyers advertizing a concerto. While Michelle and I didn't find this specific one, we did find another that night in a small church. It was relatively cheap (L10,000) but wonderful. I can't describe how wonderful it was to be one of 30 people seated in the pews around the performers. The church was dark outside of some lights for the performers. The sound completely filled the entire sanctuary. Only one thing kept it from being perfect, the pews which had to double as medieval torture devices. Just about the most uncomfortable things I have ever had the displeasure to sit in. Otherwise, the performance was quite good for the price. Apparently there are these types of things all the time. I'd recomend it in a heartbeat.

See the Rialto Bridge...

by steventilly

See the Rialto Bridge. This is the most famous and spectacular of the bridges over the Grand Canal and is therefore something of a tourist magnet - some times you can hardly move for people, and getting a view off of the bridge can be almost impossible.
Later, in the evening, it's a lot quieter and the shops on the bridge close and the African 'bag sellers' move in and take up position at various points on the bridge.
As well as the shops that line the bridge itself, there are restaurants and hotels along the waterside here, and shops and markets in all of the surrounding streets.
The markets should not be missed (see later).

Reagatta Races

by sandysmith

1. First is the regatta for the very young on the 'pupparini' boats, with two oars.
2. Second is the regatta for the women on the 'mascarete' boats, with two oars.
3. Third is the regatta for men on 'caorline' boats, with six oars.
4. Fourth is the regatta for champions on 'gondolini' boats, with two oars.
The races start from 'Giardini della Biennale'. They cross the basin of Saint Mark's, then enter the Grand Canal. They row all along the canal as far as the Church of Santa Chiara, near the railway station. The first place is awarded the red flag , the following three the white, green and blue flags, these are the awards that in Venice take the place of medals.

It can get crowded on the Grand Canal as visitors and locals alike watch this colourful event. best to pick out a spot in good time - Note Rialto Bridge and Accademia briges are policed during the races and people are NOT allowed to linger here, must keep walking and pass over. Also the Gondola stations put seating out at extortionate prices - up to 50 euros to sit on a gondola on the Grand Canal for the best views. So my advice is:
pick a good spot that is free to stand at
have a meal in restaurant on the Grand Canal
or makes friends with the owner of a Grand Canal Palazzo!

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 Palazzo Soderini

We've found that other people looking for this hotel also know it by these names:

Palazzo Soderini Hotel Venice

Address: Campo Bandiera e Moro, Castello 3611, Venice, 30122, Italy