Pollera

Very convenient...and a taste of what once was....

I first stayed at the Hotel Pollera in 2010 and have just made a return visit (March 2013).

You couldn't ask for a better location, in my opinion. 5 minutes walk from the station, opposite the wedding-cake Opera House/theatre, 2 minutes walk from Rynek Glowny (the main square in the Old Town) but far away from the routes taken by Krakow's many night-time revellers (many from the UK). The road in front can be busy, but only at busy times of day; mostly there was just the odd car passing by. Ask for a room at the back and you'll overlook a courtyard with a tree or two, and hear only the pigeons and the hourly hejnal (bugle call) from the Basilica (and some bells and very muffled traffic noise).

The Pollera was once a wonderfully swish hotel, and it is still family-owned. There's the sort of central staircase one descends wearing a floaty ball-gown, and two wonderful Art Nouveau stained-glass windows by Stanislaw Wyspianski.

The decor is somewhat old-fashioned....wooden furniture, swirly carpets, red velvet curtains and embossed bed covers in my rooms, along with a potted plant (and a crucifix. in the 2010 room). But I loved it.

My single room in 2010 was larger than most, the bathroom huge and sparkling-clean. The bed was comfortable and had two huge square pillows into which I gladly sank each night. No fancy double-glazing here, but two sets of proper window-panes, with a deep windowsill between them. I thought this hotel would be very warm in winter, and it certainly was. There is no air con but having the windows wide open served to cool the room sufficiently in very hot June weather.

There is a perfectly modern lift, and internet access in the foyer. By 2013 the hotel had free wifi throughout, and the connection was excellent. Safe deposit boxes in the foyer are free of charge.

Both of my rooms have been well-cleaned daily, towels and linen changed as one would expect. The only quibble I had in 2010 was that the hot water supply was rather intermittent, although there was plenty first thing in the morning. In 2013 it was the same and...although the room was beautifully warm...a lukewarm shower in outside temperatures below freezing did not appeal.

Breakfast was good: juices, coffee, tea, rolls, preserves,. cheeses, cold meats, hard-boiled eggs, fruit, yoghurts and a variety of Polish salads and breakfast concoctions. The hotel no longer has a bar or restaurant but there are plenty of both within a couple of minute's walk.

Staff are efficient and courteous, with good English.

All in all, I have had two very pleasant stays in this comfortable hotel at a good price. If you are happy to stay somewhere with character in a very convenient location then the Pollera may well suit you.

Unique Quality: The stained-glass windows are beautiful (see photos).

• Opinion of Price: about average
• Related to: Family Travel, Seniors, Singles

Pollera Photo: Hotel exterior

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