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Santa Maria Interior
Praça do Comércio
Panteão Nacional
Entrance to the restaurantLisbon in winter
While vacationing in beautiful Lisbon, and because of a trained eye nowadays, I had the opportunity to witness a couple of instances that teenage girls were gazed by adult men in a way that women with self respect would simply be insulted. I had the unfortunate (believe it or not) opportunity to walk through Avenida de Libertade and admire the well trimmed urban landscape and observe the gentrification creeping in a city that can’t wait to compete with the marketability of other European capitals. And there across the Louis Vuitton flag store boutique I show a person totally covered and wrapped in a black plastic foil (a garbage bag?) sitting on a bench in the middle of the grand avenida. Of course this is hardly a characteristic of Lisbon or Portugal; I have witnessed a bag lady stationed next to the Prada shop in Soho NY. Then one walks the narrow rua(s) in the Barrio Alto. And in the mid day even, the feeling is strange as the run down neglected environs create a fear, probably imagined, but still real. And the police car looking for a specific address, going back and forth does not help. Small facades of taverns that one can barely have a view inside, discourage the intimate tourist (who better follow her/his instinct and act accordingly). Graffiti is all over in some narrow streets. Because in many European cities graffiti has been criminalized, one may perceive it as a sign of delinquency or danger. On the other hand it can be seen as an act of expression, in cases quite artful, and/or an act of protest maybe. If the case is the latter then why not wonder why does such a protest exist, and against what?
Lisbon doesn’t have the main core, the centre that other cities may have. Lisbon has many centers dispersed, and some hidden. Walking in the main pedestrian and grand street I show quite a few shops, fewer cafes, while the only design shop was that of ZARA Home. In the adjacent streets there were many banks, and then corner shops closed and deserted. Gentrification for Lisbon is waiting just around corner. Great opportunities said a friend. Yes, but I am also afraid of the opportunists. There is a nostalgia in the decadence of previously wealthy buildings. A bittersweet feeling? An interesting combination between the then and the now. Portuguese are stereotyped as moody, like their fado. I can only say that I experienced them as friendly, helpful, although a bit too serious people, modest and maybe not too sophisticated but then again I was just a tourist. FOOD: The small restaurants where locals go to eat are a guarantee for good food and drinks in great prices. There is a policy I regret to say not to offer water even with coffee and pastries. TIP: is not obligatory and we didn’t get any special appreciation for living 10-15% everywhere.
Sintra and Palau Pena: An extraordinary landscape. A frightful bus ride to the palace.
MOVING AROUND: Do take buses, trams, metro and taxis (they are affordable) as much as you can. We used the one day card for 3€ something. The hills are not a peace of cake.
SHOPPING: Well, it’s not the shopping as such that seemed limited as the galleries, and art and design shops, and for sure Portuguese designers seem to be in shortage in the actual centre of Baixa. Close by the central, famous, and very touristy café Brasileira, there is a shop for gloves that is exquisite. In any case that shop with the tiny facade and public area, and the great and affordable merchandise is a must. And if you have 52€ to spare on hand-made Portuguese leather gloves with cashmere lining (men’s gloves) go ahead. I didn’t do and regret it. Brasileira is overrated.
The water frond: It is quite typical for many cities to have turned their back towards their precious water frond. Lisbon is not an exemption. A highway, and train tracks create a “wall” between a big stretch of the old city and the river.
Beleem: One word: mmm!! You must try the fresh and still warm pastries in the famous Pasteis de Beleem.
The weather: temperature around 16 degrees Celsius, with rain showers and humidity but sunny. The weather was very favorable: warm and sunny most of the time.
Enjoy Lisbon!
