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The Eclipse
Photo taken from The Eclipse Inn's Website
Great Hall, and teenagers.......
Winchester nave
I was surprised at how many people were lunching in Winchester Cathedral gardens, in some cases sitting on tombstones! Perhaps it reflects a lack of green space in city centres but it seems a strange place to stop for lunch.
Many English towns and cities were originally walled, beginning in Roman times (although Iron Age hillforts were embanked, ditched and palisaded) and continuing into the Middle Ages. A town wall provided security, but could also be an outward expression of prosperity and power. Naturally, gates were needed to allow access during the day, and to be closed against strangers at night.
Most towns have lost most or all of their walls and gates. Winchester originally had 6. The Kingsgate has Roman foundations, being built along the line of the original Roman town wall, and is first noted in 1148 (in the Domesday Book). The church which lies over it was destroyed by fire in 1264; what is visible today dates from the 13th and 14th centuries.
Fitting for such an important and powerful cathedral, the enormous Wolvesey Castle was the former Bishop's Palace. Originally built around 1100, it was Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester and brother of King Stephen, who extended the size and importance of the castle. Henry was not only Stephen's chief advisor, but also the papal representative in England, and therefore decided he needed a suitably grandiose castle to reflect his duties.
It remained one of the most important bishoprics and castles in England - indicated by its hosting of the wedding breakfast of King Phillip II of Spain and Queen Mary in 1554 before being married in the cathedral.
But it was in part destroyed by Cromwell's Roundheads and demolished in 1680 to make way for the new and more contemporary Baroque style Bishop's Palace. Little is left - a few foundation walls and chapel, but it provides a great view of the cathedral.
Managed by English Heritage, entrance is free.
Visitors should visit the Westgate, one of the ancient entrances to the city. It has served as many things over the years including a debtors prison in the 17th and 18th centuries. You can still see the graffiti carved into the walls by some of the unfortunates incarcerated here.
On the first floor is a small museum (originally opened in 1898) with various artefacts from the town (weapons, coins etc.) and the old "Town Champions" costume. There is also a pleasant Tudor painted ceiling.
Additionally, there is an interesting collection of official weights and measures used over the years.
Although entrance is free, there is brass rubbing available for a fee (materials included).
You are allowed onto the roof, where there is a great view down the High Stret and out over the City. Incidentally, the High Street here lays claim to being the oldest proper street in England.
A word of warning, though, mind your head on the extremely low door leading out to the roof!
The buildings of this college were opened in 1393. William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester and Chancellor to Richard II, was the money and brains behind the college. The students today are called "Wykehamists." The buildings of this pretigious boys' school have a the feeling of Harry Potter's Hogwarts. There is a lot of history behind its walls.
A very informative tour of the school's facilities and grounds is available a couple of times a day for around 5 pounds per adult.
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