Accommodation outside Baku
by maykal
Accommodation outside Baku is a bit of a problem, to say the least, apart from one exception...so I'll start with that. In Sheki, you shouldn't even contemplate staying anywhere other than the Kervansaray Hotel...I think if it was anywhere else in the world, it would be charging a fortune, but my room cost me US$8, and because I stayed for three nights, I was upgraded to the best room, the 'Luks Suite', at no extra cost. The Kervansaray is a beautifully restored former caravansaray (a place where traders used to stay...and their camels and horses remained on the lowere levels with their goods), and would be a fantastic place to stay if electricity and water were guaranteed...they both come on at 7pm, and are off by midnight, which makes for some fun finding your room if you are late to bed!! The staff are very friendly and helpful (the manager used to work in yemen and spoke fluent Arabic, so we got on very well!), and the prices have literally halved since my guidebook was published (1998). It is convenient for the Shah's palace compound, has it's own restaurant, and can organise a minibus to pick you up for the bus station when you leave, so it is the perfect place to stay. My guidebook says that this is the best place to stay outside Baku, and I can well believe it...mind you, it doesn't really have much competition!!! The other hotel in Sheki looked to be OK, but it was a 5 storey concrete edifice which certainly isn't as enticing as a 15th century caravanserai.
In Zaqatala, the only place to stay was the dreadful Hotel Azerbaijan, the former Intourist hotel in Soviet times. Mostly filled with refugees from Nagorno Karabagh, only a few room on the first floor are available for guests. Conditions were shocking...the room stank of urine, there was nothing in the bathroom, apart from a hole and a bucket of murky water, sheets on the bed were so well worn that they were moulded to the bed frame, and the balcony looked as if it was about to fall off. Conditions for the refugees were much worse, as I saw when one of them invited me to see his 'home'...the balcony had been converted into a makeshift kitchen with plastic sheeting, the bathroom doubled as a bedroom for three of their children, the other three sharing a bed with a cousin, while the husband and wife slept on a thin mattress on the floor....it made me feel very guilty for paying to stay there. Gold-toothed Gulia originally wanted US$30 for the privilege of staying there, but when I almost choked in amazement, this rapidly became US$2.50. Not recommended, and I sincerely hope that another place opens soon.
In Quba, the situation was much better...another former Intourist hotel, but this was actually clean, and had OK rooms for US$4 per night. The shared toilet was quite an experience, though, and not one I'm rushing to repeat! It took quite a while to actually find someone to show me a room, but eventually an octagenarian arrived, vigorously shaking my hand and repeating 'Welcome!'. Not the only guest this time; there were four Turks also staying there 'on business', and we shared jokes about the 'wonderfully clean' bathroom!