Captain's Desert Camp
Comfortable and cheerful
I didn't stay in Captain's Desert Camp, in the north of Wadi Rum and near the road to Disi Bedouin village. I just had an evening meal there with my group. But I did get to poke around the whole camp, not just the eating part, and it seemed to me exactly the sort of place that many visitors seeking a 'Bedouin desert experience' might well choose.
It's in no way 'authentic' Bedouin, of course. It's a well-organised, well-run place which quite deliberately sets out to cater to tourists and their particular preferences. And that's absolutely fair enough, imo.
So you'll find a campfire underneath colourful awnings, you'll be offered tea, you'll sit on comfortable, colourful cushioned benches around that fire and be offered tea and coffee. You'll listen to the partially-sighted musician play his instrument (a-luut) and sing, sometimes Bedouin songs but far more often songs from your own homeland (yes, it was truly bizarre to hear UK Christmas carols being played in such surroundings).
Food is served in a long tent, lined with cushioned benches and low tables. We had barbecued meats (very pleasant) with a variety of serve-yourself salads and bread. Drinks (non alcoholic only) cost an extra 1JD. Service was cheerful and friendly, the young Bedouin males sharply-dressed in tight robes and all with good English. There are no women working at the camp so you can expect to find males doing all the housekeeping as well as serving food etc etc.
The toilets (I only saw the women's, obviously!) are all flush, with several of them also doubling as shower-cubicles. There are washbasins and mirrors above. All very comfortable.
If you're staying overnight you'll stay in decent black-and-white 'Bedouin tents', woven from goathair. There are variety of types on offer: one big tent divided into separate compartments, private tents, a super-swish 'Pasha's tent' with its own toilet facilities. Beds are proper beds, with bedding and mosquito net provided. Floors are covered in rugs and solar power provides lighting in the tents as well as around the camp itself.
Staff can, of course, arrange guides, camel treks and so on and so forth.
Captain's is an eco-friendly camp all round and has the accreditation to prove it. You could do much worse than stay here....if nothing else you'll be assured of a cheerful and friendly welcome and decent facilties under the desert stars. :-)
One caveat to note: there are cats. Jordanians and Bedouin do not keep dogs as pets but cats are useful beasts and, generally, they are both liked and their presence tolerated. Lots of us enjoyed playing with the resident dining-tent cat....and so did the serving staff. :-)
Directions: In the north of Wadi Rum, accessible by a side-road within Disi village.
Lovely part of the world
Stayed here for one night and arranged a jeep tour through the camp.
There weren't many people staying here but it was great. The food at night was lovely and the prepared fire finished a great day. The showers are a bit rough but for a desert camp the facilities are surprisingly good.
You sleep on proper beds and the tents are warm.
Would stay here again.
Captain's Desert Camp
We've found that other people looking for this hotel also know it by these names:
- Captain`s Desert Camp Hotel Wadi Rum
Address: Ad-Disi, 00962, Jordan
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