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Harran Evi: Mud-brick homestay
One of my favourite places to stay, anywhere. It’s basically a bed and breakfast in one of the mud “bee-hive” structures unique to this region. Like the other similar hotel in town, it’s something of a museum, in that there are interesting things on display. Unlike the other, it isn’t also a shop with a hard sell.
Instead, this is as close as you’ll get to being invited into someone’s home here – and it’s one of the most charming and generous invitations you’ll ever receive. And personal. We had (a delicious) breakfast with the master of the house and several of his sons who run and maintain the place. The evening was spent chatting and star-gazing.
It’s not for everyone. Beds are thin mats on the floor in large communal rooms or maybe outside in the courtyard (when it’s hot), with a shared bathroom and shower. It’s clean, but the whole place is built of and plastered in mud, and doors are blankets nailed over open arches, so “clean” is relative and it’s not really private even if you have a room to yourself. Windows are permanently open, as are the very tops of the domes, meaning there are bats flying around the room at night and birds looking down at you in the morning. I was happy for both – bats for eating bugs, and birds for the wake-up call.
I was very happy with all of it. Highly recommended.
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