Enforced chilling in Cordòba
"Two Bimbo`s with Bad Timing"
After San Ignacio, we took the bus to Posadas, a city I was so unimpressed with I can not even bring myself to give it a page. It was far too busy, not much to do, the bus station is 5km from the centre, and it rained - ok, that is not the city´s fault, but hey, it didn´t add to the enjoyment. The only redeeming feature was the friendly chap who did our laundry! The following day (don´t expect dates, it feels like it was too long ago) we took the bus to Cordoba. This was the worst bus I had travelled on in Argentina. It wsa raining, miserable and the bus was nearly an hour late, we got shouted at by the rude and surly luggage handler for not giving him a tip - we hadn´t been asked for a tip so far so we were confused. I was then rude to an old lady who was just standing in the aisle of the bus and not moving for people - I felt guilty for the rest of the trip. The food, when it eventually arrived, was rubbish and obviously just thrown together at random. I was glad just to get some sleep, even though I was frozen because obviously we need full blast airconditioning when it is cold and raining outside.
We arrived in Cordoba the following morning, the sky was blue, the bird were singing and all was lovely. We stayed at the el Refugio, which was friendly and have lots of interesting people staying. Cordoba is a pretty city, especially around the main plaza, and some good shopping streets off. Unfortunately our timing was terrible. Monday is the day in Cordoba when everyting shuts, the church, the museums, nada was open. After Sunday, when everything is meant to be shut, I decided that it was fate: Cordoba was closed to us! Luckly one of the cafes was open, so we got to sit and have a couple of beers and practice our awful Spanish. Hooray for cafes, otherwise we would have been joining the bag ladies for something to do!
"Tour to the Cerro Colorado"
On the Tuesday following the wash-out that was Monday, Sarah and I took a tour up to the Cerro Colorado, to see some exciting rock art - oh baby!!
Our first stop was at the house of Atahualpa Yupanqui, 1908-1992, (a mouthful I know) an amazing classical guitarist, novelist, political activist and supporter of the local indigeneous culture. He sounded like an fascinating chap, with a life that would put most of us to shame. He has dueted with that French superstar, Edith Piath, was imprissoned and tortured for being a communist, spent alot of his life travelling and soaking in musical influences from around the world, gained several diplomas from universities around the world and even knew Ché Guevara! A truly interesting person, and a genius according to Frederick, a Uruguayan chap staying at our hostel.
The rock art in the Cerro Colorado is meant to be some of the best in Argentina, with over 200 panels known about, however we only got see 2, we were not impressed. The actual art itself was fascinating, the paintings beautiful, and the content very very interesting. The majority depicted animals, hunting and shamanistic rituals, probably created during these ceremonies. There were also illustrations of intertribal battles and the arrival of the Spanish. Not only was I umimpressed with the lack of art we were being shown, but also with the attitude to the art. There seemed to be the attitude of, ´well they didn´t leave written descriptions of what they meant, so it´s their own fault that we don´t know what they mean´. I wasn´t too comfortable with it, or perhaps I was being over sensitive? But they were worth going to visit.