"City in the Canyon"
The most spectacular way to enter La Paz is by road from the altiplano. We came by car from Copacabana, on Lake Titicaca, across the flat plains with their huge skies.
The traffic built as we barelled through the streets of El Alto, res breezeblock walls of the houses, with the narrow white spires of the many churches puncturing the skyline.
Until, around a bend, suddwnly the ground falls away on one side and the skyscrapers of the city centre are 400 metres below you, the houses climb the steep canyonsides, and Illimani floats above it all.