After a night in Triganá, spent in the most beautiful house I've ever stayed, I moved to San Pacho. I just fell in love with this village so I wanted to stay the rest of my time there. The previous day I arranged with the owner Javier, that he was going to send a guy with a donkey to Triganá to carry my bag (it was a small one but still too heavy to carry all the way long to San Pacho in such hot and humid climate). The next morning the guy arrived at the appointed time and then we walked back together. I paid him 10.000 COP.
In San Pacho Javier was already waiting for me. He showed me around one more time and explained everything. Tierra Luna, where I was going to stay, is quite spacious wooden cabaña surrounded with a lot of greenery and flowers. The ground floor is a huge open space with a locked room where I left my belongings. Behind the cabaña are two bathrooms. From the ground floor the stairs lead upstairs. Here he set up a bed with mosquito net and a hammock to relax. It was 15.000 COP per day (December 2009).
Though lacking the charm of the house I stayed in Triganá, I very much enjoyed my stay here. I had the whole cabaña for myself, and the owner Javier, a pensioner from Medellín, was staying in another house close by. We used to meet all the time. Once I was invited to have a coffee in the garden next to his house, full of tropical fruit trees and in the company of iguana, and sometimes we met in El Almendro (Rockelina's place). He was always helpful with the information, arranged things for me and brought me to places just to be sure I would be fine. The morning that I took a boat to Turbo he woke me up early in the morning, brought a cup of hot Colombian coffee and accompanied me to the pier to say goodbye.
He is indeed a very friendly guy and was like a father to me :) Thanks so much, dear Javier!
Princesa Dobaibe is a picturesque eco village located on a secluded spot, a 20 minute walk from San Pacho along the sea, following a beautiful ecological path between the beaches and the cliffs. Facing the Caribbean sea, there is a large area for camping, offering space for 10 - 15 tents, and a few cabañas, all with a hammock, ceiling fan and private bathroom. I really liked a common bathroom house (used by campers) which is nicely painted with the motives of tropical flowers, birds and fishes, by Martin Jaramillo, Martha's husband. The place is perfect for nature lovers and people looking for a good rest.
They offer various activities, such as fishing, canoeing in the near Río Ciego and guided walking tours to various places. There are many different attractions in the vicinity. You can visit the La Poza de Amalia (The Pool of Amalia), Tibirri valley and Reserva Ecológica Sasardí (Ecological Reserve Sasardí) or walk to Titumate and La Poza de los Reyes (The Pool of the Kings).
Camping is 10.000 COP per person and cabaña is 60.000 COP per person in the low season and 80.000 COP in the high season (including the accommodation, three meals and coffee). They also prepare meals for campers but this you have to pay separately.
I did not stay in Princesa Dobiabe but had a beer here in several occasions. Martha is a friendly owner whom I met one night at El Almendro. When I visited her place for the first time she kindly offered to show me around. And I really liked the whole idea and wouldn't mind at all staying here for a couple of days :)
On the boat from Turbo to Triganá I met a Colombian-Canadian couple. They were going to meet a local woman Andrea and then the next day visit a Reserva Ecológica Sasardí (Ecological Reserve Sasardí) with her. I was invited to join them but I was not prepared for such adventure, had no sleeping bag, tent and proper clothes with me. What a pity! I've always wanted to visit such place. Well, I just stayed there, as I planned, and Andrea helped me with the accommodation. There weren't any rooms available in Triganá so she asked her friend if I could stay in her house for one night.
When Andrea brought me there I was pleasantly surprised. The house was absolutely gorgeous!! It is surrounded by a beautiful zen garden with some unique tropical plants. In the ground floor is a kitchen with a lounge and a bathroom while in the upper floor is a sleeping space and a terrace with the sea view. All the places are open (except the bathroom), there are only a few walls. Windows are not necessary in such climate. Trunks of tropical trees are placed instead of columns. The house is completely made of natural materials. I loved the details: mosaics, hammocks, a few unique pieces of furniture from Bali and other handcrafted details.
This is my dream house :)
The owner Rosario moved here many years ago, after she got sick of living in the city (she was originally from Manizales). We had a nice conversation, mostly about live there. In the morning she kindly asked me to join her at breakfast. She made chickpea with vegetables which was served with pieces of orange and crackers, and a jug full of delicious Colombian chocolate. We got along quite well so she even offered me to stay longer. But I already arranged another place in San Pacho for the rest of my stay. One day we accidently met again in San Pacho and had a beer together.
The accommodation was 38.000 COP which I found very cheap for such luxury. She did not want to charge breakfast so I gladly gave her 40.000 COP.
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