My first intention had been to stay two nights in Baeza and do a daytrip from there to Cascada San Rafael, but I changed my mind and decided to go to Hostería El Reventador near the waterfall for one night. Both my guidebooks had talked about a place with basic rooms and a room price of $12. Guess if I was surprised when I arrived and found out that the price was $30 (August 2012). A man who had arrived with the same bus as me assured me that that was the correct price. Later I have read in the new edition of Lonely Planet that Hostería Reventador has recently been renovated and the rooms are now $30 for a single room and $35 for a double room. The rooms in the buildings in the back might be cheaper, but I think they were all occupied when I visited as there were a lot of men staying at the hotel, men working with construction and maintenance of the road.
I got a room in the front on the second floor. The room was facing the Quito – Lago Agrio road, but also the green surrounding hills. There were two beds in the room, an armchair, a table, a chest of drawers and a flat TV with cable channels. There was a bedside table but no bed side lamp, which I would have liked to have. Another thing that was missing was hangers or hocks to put wet clothes on.
Coming back from Cascada San Rafael, cold and soaking wet because of the rain I had hoped to have a hot shower. To my disappointment the water in the shower never became warm, and as there was no shower curtain the floor in the bathroom got all wet.
There is a swimming pool at Hostería El Reventador, but unfortunately I couldn’t use it as I had taken out two pins from my wrist the previous day and had fresh stitches. There is a nice common room just under the roof, but it is open-air and it was quite cold because of the rain, so it was too cold for me to sit there. There are hammocks and a pool table in the common room. One disadvantage for me was that my room was just under the pool table and the floor is not sound proof (I could even see the light coming through gaps in the boards). That is something I found out when I was going to sleep. Luckily the people playing pool didn’t stay very long.
Besides walking to Cascada San Rafael you can make a hiking tour to Volcán Reventador from here, or visit the Cavernas del Reventador.
There is a good restaurant at the hostel (see my restaurant tip).
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