finding the stuff...
. The waiter returned and said the chef would do something quickly for us. We made our orders and were dismayed when the waiter returned and said we needed to pick something simpler. We did so quickly without argue, as it was late and happy to get anything at this point. The meal was superb and very big so really good value. The service was the best I have ever had in South America too. The waiter, perhaps feeling bad for out not getting our first choice, brought out a free desert at the end, explaining it was a real local treat and leftover from the wedding reception earlier. It was an odd looking frozen concoction, with a milky yellow custard type liquid over thin sheets of ice and was absolutely delicious. We were upset with ourselves for not paying closer attention when he told us what it was, as we were determined to have it again before we left.
We returned a few days later from a three-day trip to the nearby Colca Canyon, still with that delectable desert on our minds. We walked around town taking photos and Doreen suddenly saw a sign that said, “leche helado,” and said she thought that was it. Of course, we went in and ordered one to find out. We sampled a few other local specialties as we waited for what seemed like ever for our mystery item to come out. We were a bit perplexed when the yellow liquid arrived in a glass, sans ice. It was the same flavor but not frozen. We left half satisfied and as we did, I noticed a huge copper wok-like bowl at the front of the small eatery, but thought little of it. That is until later that same afternoon when, in another part of the city, I saw a young Peruvian girl stirring madly with a large wooden spoon in the exact type of metal bowl. I grabbed Doreen's hand and quickly brought her over to investigate and soon saw the sign that said, “queso helado.” (concluded below in Fondest Memory)
This place is named after a typical dish from Arequipa. The "jayari" (quechua voice of "the caller") is a light dish with lots of chili and "rocoto" (the Peruvian red hot chili pepper). It worked like an appetizer for the second dish and the drink (that's why it is "the caller").
In this place you will not only find different types of jayari, but also other typical Arequipan dishes like:
- pastel de papa (cake of potatoes)
- ocopa (baked potatoes with a sauce of cheese, onion, olive, red hot chili pepper and a boiled egg)
- Rocoto relleno (red hot chili peppers boiled and baked stuffed with meat, potatoes and milk, with cheese all over it)
- Adobo (pork marinated with chicha de jora and other herbs. Chicha de jora is a fermentated drink from corn)
- Chupe de camarones (a milk soup with shrimp, delicious!) I loved the rocoto relleno. Generally I love anything full of chili!
Plaza de Armas at night
The most charming side of Arequipa's Plaza de Armas can only be seen at night, when the sky is pitch dark and the whole plaza is illuminated by hundreds of lights. On a cool, clear, weeknight, when pedestrians are scarce, a sight of a plaza in the dark, surrounded by glowing white walls can be had all by yourself.
Una visita al mercado de Arequipa es interesante por el gran colorido que tiene .Tienes que ver la parte normal donde están las frutas , la carne , las verduras y la zona donde venden los animales vivos (conejos , conejillos de indias , aves,..)
Los puestos de patatas y de maiz son espectaculares por la gran variedad y formas
Un jugode frutas te sentará de maravilla
A visit to Arequipa market is interesting due to its colourful . You must visit the normal area where they have fruit , meat , vegetables and the area where they are selling the living animals (Guinea pigs, rabbits , poultry...)
The potatoes and corn stalls are a show due the great variety in shapes and colours
A fruits juice will be very nice
Colca Canyon cont...
"Colca Canyon tour"
Our tour to Colca canyon cost us US$20 plus a further 35 soles which we paid to enter the park at the entrance to Chivay. The local government use the money tourits bring to develop the region and improve infrastructure.
"Chivay hot pools"
After our day trek to Ichupampa we went to the hot pools in Chivay. The pools were really nice. They cost 10 soles to get in and the facilities were very good.
"The food on the tour"
That night we went to a little restaurant which had local dancers and musicians performing. All the places that we ate at on the tour were obviously tourist restaurants but they were generally cheap at about 15 soles for a meal. Water and drinks cost us 3 soles in most places.
"Mirador del Condor"
At the Mirador del Condor we were supposed to see Condors flying. We didn't see any though. We saw one bird from a distance but I think someone said that it was an Eagle not a Condor.
The area did have spectacular views which we enjoyed.
There were local women selling their wares at the Mirador. I didn't buy any of the souvenirs but I saw a lady selling food so bought a bread roll with avocado, white cheese and "pebre" (onion, tomato and chilli). The roll was really delicious however the chilli was much stronger than what I can usually handle so I had to drink a bottle of water to put the fire out of my mouth!
Regarding the altitude and altitude sickness... it seems that Fiona and I were relatively lucky as a few other tourists were overheard talking about their various ailments and we saw one women vomiting into a rubbish bin.
The next day we got up at 5:30am to have breakfast and drive to the Mirador del Condor lookout. On the way we came across this lookout over the end of the Colca River valley.
Colca Canyon itself is one of the deepest canyons in the world. It rests between two volcanos - Coropuna (6,425 m) and Amapato (6,310 m).
The canyon is 3,400m deep at its deepest point and is 100 kms long.
"Return to Arequipa"
After visiting the Mirador del Condor we drove back to Chivay with a short stop along the way in a small town. In Chivay we were taken to another restaurant for lunch and there were these small children outside hoping for lollies or money. I gave them some soles in exchange for this picture.
We then drove back to Arequipa arriving around 6pm that evening.