We got to Ghanzi by flying into Johannesburg and taking the Intercape Bus to Gaborone, Botswana’s capital. This is the luxury part of the trip, an air-conditioned double-decker, bookable over the Internet. The tough bit is getting up at 5am to get the daily 6am coach from the Gaborone bus stand. See the Hotel section for the best place to stay in Gabs. This bus isn’t too bad at all, considering that you’re going to be on it for eight hours, along the very straight Trans-Kalahari Highway. There are two decent rest stops along the way and you can opt for a 10am bus, if you don’t mind wasting your whole day.
Once you reach Ghanzi, you can see the whole town in a half hour walk that even takes in the airport! There are plenty of taxis near the Spar supermarket to take you to your chosen accommodation. Chris Woolcott picks up his evening staff around 3.30pm and can make room for you, if you’re staying at Thakadu. Alternatively, Kalahari Sunset Safaris can pick you up, for a small fee, from Ghanzi Craft, if you’re planning to stay at Buitsivango Farm.
There’s a daily return bus to Gaborone, again at 6am and 10am, operated by Seabelo and LMN coaches.
For those of you who would like to visit the North of Botswana, including the Chobe Game Reserve and on to Victoria Falls, we’d recommend taking the second class sleeper train from Gaborone to Francistown. Second class is just as good as first, the only difference being it’s three instead of two tiers. The night train is very comfortable with pillows and bedding provided and even a sink in the carriage. As good as Indian night trains, so that is a compliment. The hard leg is enduring the minibus from Francistown to Kasane. You must get to the bus early; otherwise you could find yourself, like us, standing for seven hours.