At the end of our hike around Rhumsiki we had some problems.....
At the start of the hike the organisation had told us, that we could get new water and softdrinks at our our lunchbreak. So we didn't bring water for the afternoon.
But there was no water at all at the place of our lunchbreak, so in the afternoon we had to put our last warm swallows of water on rations for the last hours.
At 3 pm we asked our guide, how far the way-back to Rhumsiki was. He proposed a short-cut, so we were back in Rhumsiki at 6 pm, totally run out of water and just in time before dark.
After our lunchbreak the flat plains changed in a more hilly area.
From the elevation we had fantastic views at the villages down in the valley.
By their natural colours the villages formed an unity with their surroundings and sometimes you had to look very good to recognize them. The landscape itself was also very scenic because of the many scattered boulders at the slopes, in nearly the same colours as the huts in the villages.
During our hike, passing the villages around Rhumsiki, we had a long lunchbreak, because of the heat.
In the shade of the wide tree near the compound of the old man, some women and kids came to join us.
The kids brought two young dogs and enjoyed to learn some dutch words. So these wonderful kids all could say ''hondje blaft, wafwaf'' at the moment we left them.
Around 11 pm it was allready extremely hot during our hike south-east of Rhumsiki. We had to walk in the full sun at a dusty plain. I used my multifunctional African cloth to cover my head and shouders, like the local women did. Sometimes we sheltered under one of the scarce trees along the path for a minute for a pull of water.
We were very happy to discover finally the wide shady tree for our long lunchbreak and siesta. It was near a small compound.
Also an old man was sleeping in the shade of this tree. So we were not the only ones, looking for shade. Also some chickens were joining us.
We had our break in this shady village at the place, where the people stored their maize and other crops. The crops were high and dry on a platform on piles.
On the ground nearby we found heaps of peanut-shells. In many villages along the road we saw women and kids peeling these nuts.
We saw also maize-ears hanging in the trees (by enlarging the picture, you can see it). Koda, our local guide explained, that, when there are marriages in the village, the families hang these maize-ears in the trees.
Because the sun was burning allready heavily during the morning, we were happy our path was leading to this village south of Rhumsiki, which has a lot of trees.
So here we made our first stop, for drinking water and taking a snack (all brought by ourselves).
It was interesting to have a close look at the construction of the traditional huts with walls of mud and thatched roofs.
Later in the morning the sun allready started to burn. The ground was very dry and dusty.
A few times we crossed a small stream. In the water we saw women, washing their clothes. Also we saw cows standing in the water to cool down or to drink (you can see the cow by enlarging the picture).
It felt a bit cooler near the streams. Reality or imagination ?
In the first hour of our walk south of Rhumsiki we saw a barrage, an artificial pond, made to let the live-stock drink.
At the moment of our visit also somebody was washing his car at the water-side.
We enjoyed our walk in the early morning, looking at the small fields, the mountaineous background, the compounds, the donkeys, the cows and especially the women, carrying all kind of things on their head.
The surroundings of Rhumsiki are very scenic. Especially at north-west side of the village you will have breathtaking views at the valley, edged by striking peaks.
But also on our walk to the south-east, we saw this peak, just after we started to walk out of the village.
Itis very easy to organise hikes for one or more days in Rhumsiki. It is also possible to make treks with horses.
For an one-day hike, organised by Auberge Le Kapsiki, we paid 7.500 CFA, including three meals and a guide.
The most paths and tracks we walked were very easy. The first hour of our walk we met a lot of people on their way to Rhumsiki, but also we saw many cows.
Just outside Kumba is a large crater lake called Barombi Mbo. It is a pleasant and peaceful place, just a few kilometers from the bustle of Kumba. It is less famous than the twin lakes of Bangem, or the killer lake Nyos, but all have similar geology. National Geographic did a great story on the Nyos gas release in 1986 (which killed several thousand people), and several of the country's crater lakes, including Barombi, have a risk of release.
From the Kumba market, take a taxi "Up Station." Tell the driver you are going to the lake. It's unlikely that he'll take you that far, but you should be able to get at least to GBHS for 150 francs. From there, you're walking, 3 or 4 km mostly uphill.
Watch for snakes! I almost stepped on a black mamba one day when I wasn't paying attention.
There is a small village across the lake, and it is possible to hire someone to canoe you across. There are lots of legends about the lake--ask and you'll hear all sorts of tales.
Near Mile 11 beach in Limbe, the lava from the 1999 eruption of Mount Cameroon flowed across the road, stopping just shy of the sea. Rather than remove the materiel, the local authorities just rerouted the road around the end of the lava flow. It's easy to get out of a vehicle, climb around on the lava for awhile, then head down to the beach for a relaxing afternoon...
If you can swing, and you are adventurous and patient enough head for the Monts Alantikas on the border of Nigeria. Not only are they are beautiful in the Sahel landscape, but no visits them. It is a completely different world out there, in this region of Cameroon and Nigeria, it is possible to see people who have had little contact with westerners. The people are extremely kind, and just as interested in you, as you are interested in them. However there have been some Anthropologists who have done some work in the region, and unfortunately they have also paid very large prices for guides. If you choose to hire a guide, which is highly recommended, whatever the price that your guide may suggest, subtract 20,000 CFA or about 200 Naira. Since you are so close to Nigeria, Naira is also the preferred monetary unit. While out in that direction visit the Reserve de Faro, one of Cameroun's newest nature reserves, no one goes there, it is pristine Sahel. In order to get to these places, take a taxi en brousse, north of N'gaoundere towards Garoua. After passing the turn off for Parc de Benoue, the next town will have a wide turn off of gravel towards Poli. This is where you want to turn, Carrefour Poli. Next head for Poli, the last town before the Nigerian border, last chance for cheap supplies. Keep in mind there is nothing after Poli, bring food and water. From Poli the next towns are Finyole, Tchamba, the Ranger station for Reserve du Faro. Finally the end of the road is Ouangay, right at the foot of the Mont Alantika right across the border from Nigeria. You will know you are in Ouangay when you view a large rock formation sticking straight out of the mountains this the Aigou de Septou. Whatever you do, take a left at Finyole, do not go straigt. By going straight you will wind up directly across the Faro River from Tchamba, but there is no bridge. While the Faro might look like a mere trickle in the dry season, do not try to cross it. From a personal experience, I have been a trunk that sunk in the Faro. If it were not for 20 villagers we would not have escaped the river with our truck. By taking a left a Finyole you will wind up at the official border for Cameroun and a bridge which crosses the Faro and bypasses Tchamba. There is a catholic mission at Finyole if you require someplace to stay. If you have any further questions contact the Lamido in Poli, he is a very nice guy.
Try a walk in prestine rainforest, it's tiring, sweaty and you will certainly appreciate a shower after a day or two. Good places to do this are Mount Cameroon, Korup National Park and Dja reserve.
920, Boulevard de la Liberte, Douala, 4007, Cameroon
Satisfaction: Very Good
Good for: Couples
I went to stay there for a week but than I got out in two days. The reason I had booked was because...more
This hotel has recently been renovated. The rooms are small but modern and well-kept.more
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