Santiago Things to Do

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Tarrafal is much more than the old prison camp just outside town… OK - I only visited the town on a daytrip from Praia, but found the place to be nice and relaxing.

I had dinner at restaurant “Baia Verde”. Good food and a great view of the sea and beach from the terrace.

I went for a walk along the beach. To the right of the restaurant the beach was almost empty, but to the left it was crowded with local fishermen and their boats. Interesting to see daily life going on…

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Museu da Resistencia, an old prison camp, is located just outside Tarrafal. The prison camp was built by the Portuguese in 1936. At that time, Cape Verde was a Portuguese colony and the prison was used to house opponents of dictator Salazar’s regime in Portugal. The camp was also known as “Campo da Morte Lenta” (the Camp of the Slow Death) or “Aldeia da Morte” (Death Village). At least 32 Portuguese prisoners died here.

The camp was closed in 1954 (after international protest), but was re-opened in the 1970s. This time to house independence fighters from Angola, Cape Verde and Guinea-Bissau. The prison was finally closed on May 1st, 1974 – a few days after the Carnation Revolution in Lisbon.

It is now turned into a museum. In some of the old buildings are information plaques with photos and info about the camp and the history of some of the prisoners. But a sad place; cement, dust and heat…

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Every Wednesday and Sunday there is a local market in the small town of Assomada, about 35 kilometres north of Praia. Vegetables, meat, clothes, household goods, and anything else you can think about...

We went for a long walk around the market place. It was very crowded, but there was a nice atmosphere. No pushy vendors or aggressive salespersons, we were allowed just to watch daily life at an African market.

In the centre of Assomada is a small square with the town church and a couple of monuments.

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Sao Jorge Dos Orgaos - about 25 kilometres north of Praia - is a small picturesque village located between the mountains on the island of Santiago. The main attraction is the national botanical garden (Jardim Botanico Nacional). Well kept and a very nice place for a walk, some of the flowers were amazingly colourful and beautiful.

Going to and from the botanical garden you’ll see some small gardens and a couple of greenhouses. They are part of the agricultural research station, “India”, which is also located here in Sao Jorge Dos Orgaos.

You can also make a stop at the village church. Very small, but with extra benches in the churchyard for outdoor services.

From the village is a view of the highest point of the island of Santiago, Pico de Antonia - 1,394 meters high.

If you are going from Praia (in the south) to Tarrafal (in the north) you should make a stop in Sao Domingos and visit the local handicraft workshop. Besides the workshop there is a small shop selling various local crafts and souvenirs. The shop seemed less expensive than the more touristy places…

Sorry, no photos…

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Rua Banana (Banana Street) is a small cosy alley in the centre of Cidade Velha. Actually it was the first ‘European’ street in Africa. Some of the houses date back to the 15th century and have recently been rebuilt with their original stone.

Nice place for a short walk.

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Convento de Sao Francisco was built around 1640, and for nearly 75 years it functioned as a church, a residence of a few Franciscan friars, and a educational training centre. However, it all came to an end in 1712 when French pirate Jacques Cassard almost destroyed the whole place.

Today, a part of the old convent is restored and now used for meetings, art exhibitions, and other events… There is a nice view of the canyon of Ribeira Grande from the backside of Convento de Sao Francisco.

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Igreja de Nossa Senhor do Rosario was built in the end of the 15th century. It was before the cathedral was built and at that time it served as the main church for Cidade Velha. Today, it is again the main church and is always full on Sundays.

The church has a simple interior and altarpiece, but there are a few tombstones laid in the floor and the lower part of the walls is decorated with tiles (Portuguese style?).

Visit the church for its history, it is the earliest documented church in the tropics!