If you want to see a genuine part of Egypt you must try and go to see this one.
You will have to pay the police guard on entering the souk a baksheesh, that will allow you to entry. If you want to go further in town; ask the police man for advice and guidance. It will cost you baksheesh! But a real of the beaten path experience!
The journey between Esna and Luxor is only 50 or so kms on the Nile, but it's an extraordinary trip - the land immediately beyond the banks on both sides is fairly desolate and bleak, small villages where little has changed in hundreds (if not thousands) of years sit close to the river.