Down town area & cornich, Alexandria

3 more images

I realize that most people who visit a new country are not terribly interested in visiting civil sites like courts and police stations, but a fair amount of my work does involve such things, particularly in foreign countries, and I find them fascinated. That's why, when we realized what we were looking at, I insisted on taking a few pictures and going into the actual courthouse. Courts are chaotic in many Middle Eastern countries, and the (now infamous) Egyptian judicial system was perhaps the best example of this. The Court of First Instance was a place packed with people, lawyers, journalists, the accused, plaintiffs, defendants and family members, all carefully watched by police. We didn't go into any of the court sessions, but the hectic scene was enough for us to enjoy. I wouldn't recommend going if you're not up to talking your way out of the scene should someone realize that you don't belong. Nevertheless, if you're up for a bit of adventure, a trip to court in Egypt is certainly on way to get it.

3 more images

Ismail Pasha Square isn't so much of a square as it is a haphazard open area of the city of Alexandria. The fact that it is bounded on one side by the Roman Amphitheatre means that it will never really achieve the sort of independent stature as an architectural or urban space that it might have otherwise done, had it been surrounded by buildings. The centrepiece is a statue of Ismail Pasha, the son of Ibrahim Pasha (see my tip on his statue) and widely recognized as an important, if not the most important, figure in the modernization of Egypt. The descedent of Albanian Ottoman bureaucrats and warriors, he was proclaimed the Wali of Egypt in 1863 and gradually convinced the Ottoman rulers to grant him the title of Khedive in 1867. He won large-scale autonomy for Egypt and introduce a number of important reforms and Europeanizing policies, but also plunged the country into massive debt. This was in part caused by his campaigns to control the Nile and large swathes of Ethiopia (both of which ended in failure), as well as his shenanigans regarding the Suez Canal. The indebtedness of the country brought about unprecedented English and French control over the country's finances, which eventually led to his ouster by a revolt and the installation of his son as Khedive instead. Today he is commemorated by this modest statue in the centre of the city.

4 more images

A walk around Alexandria’s turn-of-the-century neighbourhoods, the visitor is confronted with a dizzying array of churches of numerous Christian sects. In addition to the Catholic and Orthodox Copts, Greek Orthodox and Catholics, Roman Catholics and Anglicans are all represented here, sharing streets and corners with Sunni mosques. These temples are also a showcase of the architectural styles that were brought to Alexandria by the merchants and their families: neo-Romanesque, neo-Classical, neo-Gothic. While the security situation of the city and the country as a whole may not permit visits to the interior of these churches, the visitor should be more than content with an afternoon of wandering about and photographing the exteriors.

4 more images

Alexandria is a city that has long been a crossroads of cultures and faiths, owing not only to its long history as a metropolis, but also because of its repute as a commercial hub for the Mediterranean. In addition to the native Coptic and Muslim communities, the influx of Greeks, Italians, French, British and other European nationalities means that the city is dotted with churches of various denominations. This Anglican church, in the centre of the old commercial city, is particularly interesting, as its structure departs remarkably from the usual style of Anglican churches. Rather than a neo-Gothic or neo-Romantic building, this church has distinct Mameluk traits and is more Egyptian than English. The interior is solidly English, with it stained glass and dark wood pews. Nevertheless, the arabesques and intricate carvings of the exterior are entirely Arab. This mixture of influences becomes all the more confusing when you look closely at the carvings, which have numerous Stars of David.

3 more images

While Alexandria may be named after Alexander the Great, it has no shortage of great heroes and conquerors. One of these is Ibrahim Pasha, a much-admired Ottoman Pasha who is reputed to have been an Albanian or Greek (possibly even a Christian), who rose up through the Ottoman ranks to become one of its greatest statesmen and warriors. There are statues of the Pasha in the Balkans, as well as in Tahrir Square in Alexandria. Ibrahim Pasha was responsible for the campaign to crush the first Al-Saud revolt against Ottoman rule in the Hejaz and the Nejd, and thus was responsible for the return of Ottoman sovereignty over the holy city of Medina in the early 19th century. He was also responsible for campaigns in Greece, Syria and Egypt. Today, the Pasha is commemorated, among other places, by a simple statue in Alexandria. Amongst the hectic pace of life in Egypt’s second city, his horseback figure is a simple reminder of the country’s past glory.

4 more images

The Alexandria Railway Station was, undoubtedly, once quite a grandiose building that showcased the country’s importation of European innovations. The neo-Renaissance façade, grimy from the soot and pollution of the city, hides an interior that is reminiscent more of an Eastern European train station than of Gare du Nord. The railway station has not been maintained, which is a shame, since it could probably be quite beautiful if it were cleaned and repaired properly. The ticket booths and platforms are tired, although the energy of the various snacksellers just before you go to your train helps to lift the mood considerably.

4 more images

Martyrs’ Square (Maidan ash-Shuhadaa) is not much of a sight. The centre of the square is focused on a large obelisk topped by an falcon, the national bird of Egypt. The square is filled with loafers, in part because it is right in front of the railway station, and there are many, many minibuses waiting to pick up railway passengers heading off to other parts of the city and countryside.

3 more images

Saad Zaghloul Square is the western edge of the traditional, old part of the city. It has, as it centerpiece, a large statue of Saad Zaghloul, an Egyptian nationalist who was instrumental in the Revolution of 1919. The square has a number of pastisseries and restaurants that cater more to Western tastes, although they are not always of great quality. The square is also part of a commercial and shopping area. Don’t expect to find high-end boutiques here, or traditional crafts, but it is somewhere to find goods for the Egyptian middle class.