Tangorombohitr' Isalo Things to Do

  • Hotel and National Parks office in Ranohira
    Hotel and National Parks office in...
    by CatherineReichardt
  • Interesting decorative use for a tractor radiator
    Interesting decorative use for a tractor...
    by CatherineReichardt
  • Sunset through La Fenetre
    Sunset through La Fenetre
    by CatherineReichardt

Best Rated Things to Do in Tangorombohitr' Isalo

  • Norali's Profile Photo

    OK...

    by Norali Updated Jul 30, 2004

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    It used to be a desert place

    Just to show you about what I talked about in my previous tip. Enlarge the picture.

    In 1995, this was a quite deserted area with some houses (small houses). In 2001, it was all different (date of the picture). The mine workers have dug the desert savannah. Here and there, one finds lots of sapphire galleries, deep holes of 10 meters, sometimes large. Like big open pits without water but vomitting the red soil that had been dug out in the nearby area.

    The lure of gain had led the mine workers to tackle the Northern part of Isalo massif, where lies Isalo National Park. The trend is being contained but it's a fragile balance. Dealing with both economic reasons, (& as sometimes opposed to) social, ecological, spiritual aspects in Madagascar is not always easy. Supporting the economy, the efforts of NGOs is one reason to go there. The more they succeed in helping the locals, the less the latter would dig out the amazing Isalo park.

    Also, if you pay attention, you would see this black part of the park (right part). It is the remnants of a recent doro-tanety I talked about in my General tips.

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    Other fauna elements

    by Norali Updated Jul 14, 2005

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    Green chamilin ?  No, simply chamilion !

    OK... writing those tips just remind me that what I consider as mundane experiences can be must-see for others (for them
    not having experienced them yet) or even off the beaten track ones.

    I wanted to limit myself to the lemurs as fauna must-see. Still, Isalo is home of other species too: apart from lemurs, Grives de Beson (Beson thrushes), chamilions.

    Same goes for the endemic flora (incl. lush "rock" flora as aloe vera, pied d'elephant, euphorbs and pachypods)...

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    • Birdwatching
    • Hiking and Walking

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    Elephant plant (?)

    by Norali Updated Feb 12, 2006

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    Rose du d?sert or Faux baobab or pachypodium

    How would you know about this flora species, for instance, if you haven't taken a guide? Anyway, it shouldn't be a problem since guiding is mandatory, i was just told.

    Now, I tell you. It is named "Rose du d?sert" or "Faux baobab" or "pachypodium".

    I like the metallic grey shade of its trunk. It can grow big but would keep its features: the big trunk with some arms... sometimes very long arms.

    This is, imho, the most specific flora element there. OK, for those who haven't seen bamboos, fern trees and palms, do kow that the trails would lead you to discover them too.

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    • Hiking and Walking
    • National/State Park
    • Photography

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    Mythical maki

    by Norali Updated May 8, 2004

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    Mythical Makis

    Enlarge the picture. These are mythical makis. Those are ring-tailed lemurs, not all lemurs are ring-tailed but makis are. This Maki, more than any other lemur, is the Madagascar poster boy.

    I would say that lemurs are the main fauna elements to see in Isalo. Still, as I said earlier there are other nice beasts to see as well. Not every park in Mada has makis. With microcebus and brown nightactive lemur, this is one of cutest, imho. Click here to see what I am talking about.. but don't forget to return to this page to see the rest of Isalo.

    Maki has this triangular face with those ears. Sometimes, I find them beautiful, some know how to pose. :)) really cute.

    You may check here for a close-up of a maki: http://www.alovelyworld.com/webmadag/htmgb/madag70.htm
    But don't forget to return to this page to see the rest of Isalo.

    Scientific name: Lemur catta

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    • Zoo

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    Why hiring ANGAP guides when visiting the park ?

    by Norali Updated Apr 4, 2011

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    Help them preserving this!

    Ever noticed that I insisted on you hiring ANGAP guides while visiting national parks? Not only because local ANGAP guides are the ones who know about "their" territory. Also, ANGAP (association nationale pour la gestion ds aires partagees) aims at protecting nature.

    For decades, nature parks, and other areas btw, have been under threaten. Peasants have been doing harm to Mother nature. For instance, local slash and burn technique, Tavy, was used not only in hills and more and more eroded soils, locals started to use it in parks and nature reserves as well. The cause: locals haven't had any education, neither awareness on preservation. They had to make do with they've known so, they haven't benefited from any specific program (like most of Malagasy peasants for decades, btw).

    Then ANGAP was founded in 1990, a NGO that coordinates and manages the program for preserving Malagasy biodiversity. Soon this initial mission had to be extended in local development actions. It realized that preservation couldn't go along with poverished locals whose actions would go against ANGAP projects. Now, 50% entry fee amounts are allowed in micro-projects of neighbouring villages. Along with locals, other associations and financial aids, it helps in schools raising, setting of agriculture areas, rivers. ANGAP plays a role in orientating peasants too, according demands, markets. Especially in Isalo area, ANGAP had to orientate locals to NOT extract sapphire gems in the park. Tough job when one rushed to Isalo, ilakaka area for sapphire

    Please, hire ANGAP guides. It encourages them to keep up their good work. It is reported that only 15% of Malagasy territory are covered by forests. Sad. "Blue island" then is now "Red island". The green, so deep that it tended to the blue shade became the red shade of the nude soil of the island. The guides contribute in showing the endemic species and educating us on the fragile balance of Madagascar's nature.

    Related to:
    • National/State Park
    • Jungle and Rain Forest
    • Eco-Tourism

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  • Norali's Profile Photo

    Canyon des makis: best bet to see lemurs

    by Norali Updated May 22, 2004

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    Thank God lemurs still do it :)

    Canyon des makis has different names: Vallee des singes, Vallee des lemuriens, Canyons des singes, Vallee des makis...

    I would say all is OK except the ones that include "singes" or "apes" in it. According to what I read and was taught, lemurs (a maki is a type of lemur) are not apes neither monkeys.

    In Isalo park, 7 species: Cheirogaleus medius (nocturnal, Fat-Tailed Dwarf Lemur), Microcebus murinus (grey mouse lemur), Mirza coquereli, Propithecus verreauxi verreauxi (Verreaux' Sifaka), Lepilemur ruficaudatus (Red-tailed Lepilemur), Lemur catta (Maki), Eulemur fulvus rufus (brown lemur).

    According to the website of Madagascar national parks (by ANGAP), all dayactive lemurs who used to be in Isalo Park and neighbouring areas used to be victims of poachers. Sifaka and Maki are amongst them. Besides, their habitats are under threaten (tavy, deforestation).

    This canyon is the best area where to observe lemurs in Isalo national park. For that, choose "Les canyons des rats et des makis" circuit.

    It is a large canyon with lots of bamboo and palm trees, with oddly lusher flora and a river. Also, the ricefields in nearby area reminds you that you are in Madagascar, not on the moon despite the landscape. :)

    Walking there requires a good condition. Be sure to prepare yourself for the hike, esp. if you are (like me) not that well trained for that. This kind of circuit, as far as I remember, would lead you to hike for one day (or ideally 2) with a variation in level of 800 m. Still, you will be rewarded by the sight of the lemurs, especially the sifakas, the kings of the area. :)

    OK.. give some 10 hours to do this circuit. People usually camp so to have the benefit of a great night in the park, after the hours of walking.

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    • Zoo

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  • Norali's Profile Photo

    Lunar landscape, strange relief from jurassic era

    by Norali Updated Jul 30, 2004

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    La fen��tre, amongst weird shapes there..

    The park has a ruin-shaped relief (cf. intro pic), vast grassy plains. This seemingly dry area contains several rivulets and springs in the narrow canyons. Worth noticing, it is located in a hugely eroded sandstone massif. Yes, wind and rain combined their actions to erode and grant rocks with strange shapes.

    As for Isalo massif itself, it results from a sandstone formation in jurassic era, more specifically during marine invasions and regressions. Then, two sorts of sandstone, of marine origin and of land origin.

    When relief reached 1000 m height (altitude), it has flattened at this level. But an erosion had shaped this landscape of canyons, talus and what we know now as Isalo plateau.

    Southern and Eastern areas of Isalo massif are made up by sandstone layers, with aggregates of different dimensions and resistances (strengths). Following an erosion, the massif had a new ruin-shaped relief whose altitude ranges from 820m to 1240m.

    To be clear, the layers of different strengths were equally attacked by erosion but, say, reacted differently to erosion. The most resistant layers were less eroded and had kept the altitude of above 1000m. Some layers were less resistant to wind and rain, they are of lesser altitude.

    Others were completely eroded and gave birth to deep canyons such as Lemurs canyon and Rats canyon.

    All the contrasts on this site are simply amazing, you have to see it: rocks here, greenery there, canyons here, ricefields there, dry red soil here, rivulets and cascades there...

    Related to:
    • Desert
    • National/State Park
    • Archeology

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  • Norali's Profile Photo

    First...

    by Norali Written Dec 28, 2003

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    Isalo canyon

    ... Visit Isalo national park.

    This activity in itself is an off beat path activity.

    Not only you would see the lunar landscape made up by those ruiniform rocks, on which wind and rain have combined their actions;

    Not only, you would be pleased to see those endemic species, fauna as well as flora;

    Not only you would appreciate the little bath in fresh rockpool water at the end of your trek;

    Not only you would be able to visit the neighbouring Malagasy Far west (check my "Saphire road" tip),

    you would experience too a rendez-vous with yourself, facing immensity, silence in the canyon when noone is around except you and your guide, echoes in the galleries and oasis....

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  • Norali's Profile Photo

    Guiding is mandatory otherwise you miss sthg

    by Norali Updated Jul 30, 2004

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    What can you see there ?  Tell me !

    It seems obvious but one has to say that you need guiding when you visit the park. Without that, you would miss many things, you wouldn't know the places, the species, the interdicts.

    Enlarge the picture. Look at it carefully: what's in there ? Can you say ? Yes, you may but if you were sent alone in the Lemur valley, you wouldn't have been able to spot it. Plus, you wouldn't have known that those rocks house tombs. Therefore, they are fady and very precious to Malagasy. Lemurs are the only ones who are "allowed" to venture there. Normal, since they are considered as spirit of the ancestors in this area.

    Now, about why ANGAP guides? They are, for me, a guarantee of knowledge of the area. ANGAP stands for Association Nationale pour la Gestion des Aires Prot?g?es, a NGO that aims at preserving nature in many national parks and reserves. Note that, more than ever, fauna and flora are endangered species on the Red Island since locals are used to some slash and burn farming. That just contributes in suppressing acres of forest (primitive ones included).

    ANGAP guides can be free-lance ones or working for the parks and reserves. They can be hired at the entry of parks, at hotels in the area. [Update May 20: I was just told that guiding is mandatory]. Asking the hotels you are staying or the restaurants you are eating in about possibilities can help too.

    I prefer them to the guides who drive you through the whole island. Those latter know the island but not thoroughly each specific spot you would like to visit. [Update July 2004: anyway, ANGAP guiding seems to be mandatory within National parks]

    Ticket is to be bought at la Maison d'accueil du Parc in Ranohira.

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    Refreshing experience...

    by Norali Updated May 8, 2004

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    If you see this, dive!

    .. at the end of your walking and visit of the Isalo park, swim in a fresh rockpool water.

    If you want the rockpools, make sure you would choose the walking circuits that include the rockpools at the end. In fact, there are several types of circuit according to the time allowed for the visit, to your physical conditions. Also, there is a circuit that includes 4WD ride, in addition to walking.

    Just ask whether there are things you can't do, as usual, one may say.

    Bring your swimwear. People are not used to nude swimming over there, at least, not at this spot. Plus, the area is kind of home of ancestor spirit so esp. there, respect the fady, the interdicts...

    Also, near the rockpools use to be camping sites. Of course, you will have your guide with you so you wouldn't have to worry about safety. Hmm.. That's another idea of camping too.

    Related to:
    • Camping
    • Hiking and Walking
    • National/State Park

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  • Norali's Profile Photo

    Do I need to say it?

    by Norali Updated May 8, 2004

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    Weird rocks, fascinating area...

    Now, some room for bright and lighthearted activity: Photography is a must do in this area.

    I saw those landscape, features of Isalo park though I was running out of film when I visited. Hopefully, friends still had film rolls left so they could shoot those pic... This series, particularly is important and of good quality (IMHO).

    Bring film, strong zoom lens, digicam and reflex... and material (cover) to protect photo equipment from dust...

    Check the whole page to see my pics, travelogues included.

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    Camping, seeing sunset and sunwatch in Isalo park

    by Norali Updated Jan 12, 2004

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    How would it have been to camp, wake up there?

    I haven't done it there but I am longing for it... One day, I would do it. Just imagine waking up in the middle of this weird area, lunar landscape, hearing the call of the lemurs...

    How fascinating that should be. Though I haven't done it, I kind of advertise about it, realizing what I missed by just walking throuhg it for some hours, without any intention to camp, to stay overnight. We should have.

    Latest news: no need to bring tents, Momo Trek (Ranohira) seems to be a good supplier of camping tools. I wonder though about basic kits (knife, pocket lamps..)

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    • Backpacking
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    Hopping Sifaka

    by Norali Updated May 20, 2004

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    Bouncing Sifaka in its territory: the tombs

    Scientific name: P. verreauxi. Sifaka is a relatively small-bodied species (under 4 kg on average). Funny enough, it is identified following its raucous "si-fak!" call. Hence its name in Malagasy: Sifaka

    The fur of sifaka is mainly white, with the top of the head black or chocolate brown. The ears are white, slightly tufted & only moderately prominent. Sometimes, there may be silver gray or goldish tints on the back and flanks, and the base of the tail. A reddish-brown gland is said visible at the base of the throat in males. Still, I was not close enough to see the gland.

    Not the cutest lemur but really funny... Nothing is more funny than seeing them bouncing, hopping about, with their joined legs. And they don't follow a straight path, they rather move on the ground with the manner of a crab. Of course, that is when they don't sunbath on the tree branches. When it's hot, they just have some rest and the noisy Sifaka remain strangely silent.

    Do you have the feeling lemurs are lazy ones? Yes, lazy and slow. This is reported to be the reason why they couldn't survive in the other parts of the world for them being easy preys of mightier beasts.

    To eat something, Sifaka barely uses its hands. Diner is generally made of leaves and buds.

    Sifakas use to live in groups of 6-8 elements, hence the use of the call as communication within the groups. They can be divided in two allied families.

    Related to:
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    • National/State Park
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  • CatherineReichardt's Profile Photo

    Pick up your ANGAP tour guide in Ranohira

    by CatherineReichardt Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Church in Ranohira
    2 more images

    Ranohira is a bustling little town that serves as the gateway to Isalo. It is a good place to replenish your stocks, and a pleasant place to spend a few days, with some reasonable hotels and some attractive low key tourist destinations such as the colonial era church in the photo.

    Ranohira is where you need to organise your ANGAP tour guide at the National Parks office by the Hotel Berny, without which you will not be allowed to enter the national park. It's difficult to miss the hotel, as when we visited (November 2008) it was distinguished by an arresting red and white colour scheme and liberally emblazoned with the logo of Three Horses (THB) brewery - for our money, one of the best beers in the world (and a welcome reward after a hard day hiking in the intense heat of Isalo!)

    Finding a good guide will make all the difference to your time in Isalo. Make sure that you find one who is fluent in your language, and make it clear what you're interested in. There are so many facets to Isalo that it is impossible for the guide to focus on your particular areas of interest if you don't do him the courtesy of letting him know what they are. We were extremely fortunate to find a guide who was a knowledgeable herpetologist, and was therefore delighted to spend time on finding lizards and frogs: other guides focus on cultural aspects or more mainstream interests such as lemurs.

    When you're budgeting for your Madagascar trip, take into account the cost of guides (consult a recent travel guide for the current rates) and the fact that it is expected that you will tip generously. By first world standards, this is not expensive, but the costs quickly mount up if you're visiting a number of parks and reserves (as you probably will) and it would be a pity to spoil what should be the experience of a lifetime by underbudgeting.

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    Tourist watching at La Fenetre

    by CatherineReichardt Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Sunset through La Fenetre
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    La Fenetre (The Window) is by far the best publicised tourist attraction at Isalo, and one of the most accessible, being easily accessible in an ordinary sedan from the main road.

    La Fenetre is an impressive natural arch formed by erosion of the sandstone: what makes it doubly special is that it faces pretty well due west, so it is possible to view the sunset through the window, when the fading light makes the rock glow in shades of apricot, orange and pink.

    There were about 30 people at La Fenetre the day we went to watch the sunset: by far the greatest concentration of tourists that we encountered anywhere in Madagascar (indeed, the limited number of fellow tourists was one of the aspects of Madagascar we enjoyed most, as it made us feel all the more intrepid!). The spectacle was beautiful, but photographing the sunset wasn't the main attraction for us, as we were far more interested in watching the lizards and beetles scurry between the lichen-embellished rock and admiring the wild periwinkles and orchids. However, I have to conceded that watching eager photographers jostling for position and agonising about the perfect camera settings did make for a delightful exercise in people watching!

    All the tour guides romance about the sunset experience at La Fenetre, and there is no disputing that it is impressive. However, I would argue that being at La Fenetre in splendid isolation at any time of the day would be more atmospheric, and would also give you more opportunity to appreciate the other finer points of the landscape rather than just the sunset. Stay nearby - for example, at the exquisite Relais de la Reine - and there's no reason why you can't visit more than once!

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